Thinking of Minolta Autocord

[Hubigpielover]

I am ready to jump into medium format and have narrowed it down to the Minolta Autocord. The price is right for the camera I am getting. Talked to Karl (who is awesome) and checked out this website
(http://fredmath.wixsite.com/minolta-autocord-en/battery). It still left me with a couple of questions.

1) Are the zinc batteries terrible enough to justify the expense of the MR-9 or MR-50 adapter?

2) One of the articles out of the many I read said to shoot with a lens shade. Is this true? I'm not an equipment guy and would rather spend money on film and developing.

3) any other tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone

 

[Harry Stevens]

I have Rolleicord and Rolleiflex and I consider the lens hoods a essential part of the camera.

 

[mooseontheloose]

Go for it! My Minolta Autocord was my first TLR and it continues to be my favourite. I probably own at least 15 TLRs, half of which are Autocords, and I have never relied on the battery for any of them - I always use a handheld meter. Honestly, I wouldn't rely on any TLR's batteries, so if you don't have a handheld meter I would seriously look into getting one. The benefit with that is that you can also use it with other cameras/lighting situations.

As for the lens shade, even though I have several, I don't often use one when shooting. If you want less issues with flare, then definitely use one, but I've gotten some very good images without using one, so YMMV.

 

[Hubigpielover]

I have Rolleicord and Rolleiflex and I consider the lens hoods a essential part of the camera.

Thanks!

 

[faberryman]

You might be better off investing in a separate light meter than an MR-9 adapter. I picked up a Sekonic Twinmate on the auction site for not much more to use with my Autocord.

 

[Dan Daniel]

You must be looking at one of the CdS meter models if batteries concern you. What does Karl Bryan have to say about these? I have only had one and I stopped using the meter inside of a week so never wore out the hearing aid battery. I have no idea if the meter is good, etc. Prices on the CdS models keep me away from them considering that I won't use the meter.

A hood not only helps with flare, it also gives a little bumper guard for the lens which is sitting right out near the edge. Since I use a TLR in places with either people or branches, and a TLR tends to be carried low, I just feel safer with the hood. A cheap plastic hood for under $10 will work.

Other tips, etc? Hmm... If you push back on the lens standard it will often jam the focus because of the pressure. So I think the camera is broken until I relax my fingers and then all is fine.

Get one. Great cameras.

 

[Hubigpielover]

Go for it! My Minolta Autocord was my first TLR and it continues to be my favourite. I probably own at least 15 TLRs, half of which are Autocords, and I have never relied on the battery for any of them - I always use a handheld meter. Honestly, I wouldn't rely on any TLR's batteries, so if you don't have a handheld meter I would seriously look into getting one. The benefit with that is that you can also use it with other cameras/lighting situations.

As for the lens shade, even though I have several, I don't often use one when shooting. If you want less issues with flare, then definitely use one, but I've gotten some very good images without using one, so YMMV.[/QUOTE

Go for it! My Minolta Autocord was my first TLR and it continues to be my favourite. I probably own at least 15 TLRs, half of which are Autocords, and I have never relied on the battery for any of them - I always use a handheld meter. Honestly, I wouldn't rely on any TLR's batteries, so if you don't have a handheld meter I would seriously look into getting one. The benefit with that is that you can also use it with other cameras/lighting situations.

As for the lens shade, even though I have several, I don't often use one when shooting. If you want less issues with flare, then definitely use one, but I've gotten some very good images without using one, so YMMV.

God to know! Thanks for the info. Do you use any filters and are what kind of shutter release do you recommend?

 

[Hubigpielover]

You must be looking at one of the CdS meter models if batteries concern you. What does Karl Bryan have to say about these? I have only had one and I stopped using the meter inside of a week so never wore out the hearing aid battery. I have no idea if the meter is good, etc. Prices on the CdS models keep me away from them considering that I won't use the meter.

A hood not only helps with flare, it also gives a little bumper guard for the lens which is sitting right out near the edge. Since I use a TLR in places with either people or branches, and a TLR tends to be carried low, I just feel safer with the hood. A cheap plastic hood for under $10 will work.

Other tips, etc? Hmm... If you push back on the lens standard it will often jam the focus because of the pressure. So I think the camera is broken until I relax my fingers and then all is fine.

Get one. Great cameras.

I found a hood for 8.95 with prime shipping so I think it will be a good investment. According to the serial number it is a 1955ish "L" model which should have the Selenium light meter. In our conversation, he told me to look at for this model since it has the Seikosha lens. It is not a CDS model. And I am an idiot. The CDS take the mercury battery. So does the "L" model not use batteries?

 

[Hubigpielover]

You might be better off investing in a separate light meter than an MR-9 adapter. I picked up a Sekonic Twinmate on the auction site for not much more to use with my Autocord.

I was thinking that also. I was gifted an Olympus OM-1 and it is either buy an MR-9 adaptor or a light meter. Probably pick up both. I like to shoot 35mm at night and it is easier with an in camera meter.

 

[Alan Gales]

I would use a separate hand held meter myself and not rely upon the Autocord's ancient meter.

Always use a lens hood if you don't want lens flare. Of course lens flare can be interesting in some shots but most of the time you don't want it.

 

[MattKing]

So does the "L" model not use batteries?

Selenium meters don't need batteries.
However, selenium meters also don't necessarily age well, and are relatively poor in low light.

 

[zanxion72]

Go for it. It may be not a Rolleiflex, but it looks beautiful and produces photos with a distinct look, something like the Yashikor of the Yashica 635 does. You will not regret it.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Go for it. It may be not a Rolleiflex, but it looks beautiful and produces photos with a distinct look, something like the Yashikor of the Yashica 635 does. You will not regret it.

The Yashikor is a triplet design. Known for producing a wonderful swirling background effect at wide apertures. The Autocord's Rokkor is a four element 'Tessar' type lens design, like the Yashinon of the YashicaMats. The Rokkor is certainly the equal of the Zeiss Tessar, and some say it is slightly better in sharpness.

Assume that the selenium meter is not accurate (I've found a few that work well but the needle itself has bent and is jammed- removing the cover and gently bending the needle gets it working again, at least until a bang jams it again). Here's an approach that doesn't use a meter-
http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm

 

[BMbikerider]

Go for it. It may be not a Rolleiflex, but it looks beautiful and produces photos with a distinct look, something like the Yashikor of the Yashica 635 does. You will not regret it.

The Autocord was/is a lovely camera. Whilst it does not have the kudos of a Rollie it can more thankeep up with the likes of the models fitted with the ZeissTessar. (far better than the the triplet Yashicor or even the 4 element Yashinon) It is very well made and a really smooth operator. The only week spot is the lever focussing below the taking lens can catch on things which can bend it out of shape quite easily.

At one time I had one of the non metered versions of the Autocord and a Rollieflex 3.5f fitted with a Xenotar lens which I used with B&W in one and colour neg in the other and to be honest there was no practical difference between them with regards to quality. I would love to have them again

 

[Hubigpielover]

Go for it. It may be not a Rolleiflex, but it looks beautiful and produces photos with a distinct look, something like the Yashikor of the Yashica 635 does. You will not regret it.

I could buy a Rollei if I didn't have to buy about $1500 worth of books for next semester. Plus, I would rather spend what money I am going to have left on film. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Prest_400]

I'd love one and infact wanted to enter Medium format through a TLR, the Minolta Autocords are really nice options, though at the end opted for a Fuji 6x9. Different approach that still leaves a 6x6 gap to get a TLR in some future.

A metered (CdS) model would not be my priority, but it seems you found a sample and features are welcome IMO. If it still is accurate with hearing aids down to Sunny 16 range, to get an idea better than pure guesstimation then I'd be happy. I have an OM-1 too (requires a good CLA) that I already got converted through a diode in the electronics.
However, I second getting a handheld meter. I am a bit liberal on this, despite having one (Autometer IIIF) I tend to guesstimate too much out of convenience.

Then the $1000 plus on Rolleiflex... For that money you could get a few pieces of diverse gear. While we're at it, I'd love a Rollei 2.8 but that's mucho film! And again, is the Rollei $1000 better? Maybe not. I stumbled upon an old thread on LFF where a forumer loved the Autocord's rendition and he didn't see it in LF. Better to get in and then step up. An advantage of classic film cameras is that you can sell them for the same price you bought if it doesn't fit your needs as expected.

 

[Hubigpielover]

I'd love one and infact wanted to enter Medium format through a TLR, the Minolta Autocords are really nice options, though at the end opted for a Fuji 6x9. Different approach that still leaves a 6x6 gap to get a TLR in some future.

A metered (CdS) model would not be my priority, but it seems you found a sample and features are welcome IMO. If it still is accurate with hearing aids down to Sunny 16 range, to get an idea better than pure guesstimation then I'd be happy. I have an OM-1 too (requires a good CLA) that I already got converted through a diode in the electronics.
However, I second getting a handheld meter. I am a bit liberal on this, despite having one (Autometer IIIF) I tend to guesstimate too much out of convenience.

Then the $1000 plus on Rolleiflex... For that money you could get a few pieces of diverse gear. While we're at it, I'd love a Rollei 2.8 but that's mucho film! And again, is the Rollei $1000 better? Maybe not. I stumbled upon an old thread on LFF where a forumer loved the Autocord's rendition and he didn't see it in LF. Better to get in and then step up. An advantage of classic film cameras is that you can sell them for the same price you bought if it doesn't fit your needs as expected.

Mi español es un poco mal pero esta será una buena manera de practicar. Yo, por desgracia, no tienen $ 1000 para gastar porque tengo que comprar libros para la universidad. Sólo tengo unos 200 dólares para gastar. Gracias por toda la ayuda sin embargo.

 

[hsandler]

A lens hood is worth it for TLRs. The lenses are not deeply recessed and the coatings were not as good as modern. The $9 plastic hoods on the auction site are OK, but they use the inside bayonet of the Autocord, so you can't use a filter at the same time. The metal lens hoods from the era (I've seen Rollei, Waltz or Hama makes) fit over the outer bayonet, so you can still mount filters too.

I have the unmetered Autocord with Seikosha shutter. I think it's called the export model. The lens is amazingly sharp and contrasty at f8.

 

[Hubigpielover]

A lens hood is worth it for TLRs. The lenses are not deeply recessed and the coatings were not as good as modern. The $9 plastic hoods on the auction site are OK, but they use the inside bayonet of the Autocord, so you can't use a filter at the same time. The metal lens hoods from the era (I've seen Rollei, Waltz or Hama makes) fit over the outer bayonet, so you can still mount filters too.

I have the unmetered Autocord with Seikosha shutter. I think it's called the export model. The lens is amazingly sharp and contrasty at f8.

I am looking at an Autocord with the Seikosha that is metered. Can't wait! I appreciate the info on the hood because I almost bought a cheap one today. Man this camera is going to set me back some scratch. The good news is I am not a collector so all I need is a 35mm and a 120mm. What kind of shutter release works on an "L" model?

 

[Dan Daniel]

If by shutter release you mean a cable release, it's a standard cable release. If you are looking for a soft release, I will highly recommend the small Match Technical convex release. I don't really understand Match's naming system, but it's the ones that are rounded like the Beep, not the concave Boop-
http://www.matchtechnical.com/Pages/Beep.aspx
I find the soft rounded edge fits my finger well and reacts well without my finger position being super critical.

 

[Hubigpielover]

If by shutter release you mean a cable release, it's a standard cable release. If you are looking for a soft release, I will highly recommend the small Match Technical convex release. I don't really understand Match's naming system, but it's the ones that are rounded like the Beep, not the concave Boop-
http://www.matchtechnical.com/Pages/Beep.aspx
I find the soft rounded edge fits my finger well and reacts well without my finger position being super critical.

Thanks!

 

[BMbikerider]

Mi español es un poco mal pero esta será una buena manera de practicar. Yo, por desgracia, no tienen $ 1000 para gastar porque tengo que comprar libros para la universidad. Sólo tengo unos 200 dólares para gastar. Gracias por toda la ayuda sin embargo.

Your Spanish is very good, much better than mine. I cheated and used Google translate to get the below!!!

My Spanish is a bit bad but this will be a good way to practice. I, unfortunately, do not have $ 1000 to spend because I have to buy books for college. I only have about $ 200 to spend. Thanks for all the help though.

 

[zanxion72]

Also, at that price you can get a Rolleicord. Excellent cameras and can be found easily in very good condition.

 

[ransel]

The Yashikor is a triplet design. Known for producing a wonderful swirling background effect at wide apertures.

That explains why I love the images I make with my Yashica D at wide open.

Don't know if it has been mentioned here, but the Autocords are notorious for stiff focus and broken-off (or weakened) focus knobs. Just make sure the one you are looking at is not plagued by this.

 

[jgoody]

I would second the lens hood. The Rollei Bay 1 lens hoods fit the Autocord as well as those made for the Autocord and possibly the YashicaMat hoods -- as do the Rollei Bay 1 CU lenses called "Rolleinar 1" and "Rolleinar 2". The Rolleinars come with a CU lens for the viewing lens as well which has a prism to correct parallex so what you see is pretty accurate. Kind of a neat system.