Thinking of getting into colour - help?

[Mark_S]

Currently I do most of my work in B&W, where I shoot mostly LF, process, print and mount everything myself. I also shoot some E-6 both in 35mm and LF, which I process myself, and then either scan myself (35mm), or take to a service who scan the 4x5 transparancies for me - I then do some manipulation and printing of these images digitally.

I am toying with the idea of getting into printing in colour in the darkroom, and never having done this, have tons of naive, newbie questions.

1) Is Cibachrome still available? - My local photo shops don't carry it, but that doesn't mean much, they barely carry film anymore.

2) Are there other colour print processes that use transparancies that I should look at?

3) If NO to the above two questions, then I suppose I would have to do it using a colour negative process - I assume that C-41 can't be much harder than E-6 - what about printing - what is involved there?


In terms of equipment, I am assuming that I would pick up a Dichro Colour head for my enlarger - they seem to be available for relatively little $. I have a Jobo CPP2 which I use for film processing, and I assume that I could use that for printing in colour - is that a rational way to go?

Interested in getting some ideas from y'all.

 

[Nick Zentena]

PE posted some info on using RA-4 paper with E6 films. I think mostly over on photo.net. But maybe here to.

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00A4vW

Even some bits on using RA-4 paper in camera

C-41 is less steps then E6 so in that way I guess it's simpler. But really it's not much of a difference between the two.

Kodak website has the manuals for both so you could compare.

You'll need at least one [more is better] print drums for your Jobo. Basically the drum is very similar to the 2500 type film drums. Different insert inside the lid. Ridges on the inside of the tank to hold film. Dry the drum. Dry the drum. Trust me

Printing RA-4 is:

1) Get exposure of the dry print right.

2) Get the colour balance right.

Good negatives will save your hair. So will a good colour analyzer.

I don't remember off the top of my head how big the CPP is. If it's the smallest one [the one that comes with 600ml bottles] you'll I think be limited to 11x14 prints. The other models can go to 20x24 I think.

 

[David Nardi]

Cibachrome, now known as Ilfochrome is still available. I take my 4x5's to the one and only Ilfochrome printer/lab in town (Toronto) and he does fabulous work. I would do them myself but my enlarger can only go up to 6x6cm with a max width of 14" on the baseboard. With that said, I have done Ilfochrome prints up to 8x10 with my set-up. I use a colour filter kit with a condenser enlarger and warm up my chemicals in a tempered bath. I develop my prints in an Ilford print drum on a Uniroller drum roller.

Your Jobo will do the job just fine. It looks like you have the right tools to work in colour. Keep in mind that Ilfochrome printing is pricey but the resulting images are a sight to behold. Although I have seen some wonderful RA-4 C-prints, there is still something truly magical about Ilfochrome. Most of my Ilfochrome prints from 4x5 are printed at 30x40 and they feel like I can step into my photograph and re-live the experience.

Nick is right that when you check colour balance; check it with a dry print. In my experience a wet print tends to look too magenta. Go to Ilford's website to find information on their Ilfochrome products. The best paper is the Classic Deluxe, Super Glossy. It is the paper that all others are measured by, and the one widely accepted in the fine art community.

Two fine art professional photographers that specialize in in-house Ilfochrome printing are:

Christopher Burkett - www.christopherburkett.com

Michael Fatali - www.fatali.com

Mr. Burkett has taken the time to respond to an e-mail or two that I sent him and I'm sure he would do the same for you.

Cheers,

David

David S. Nardi Photography
www.davidnardi.com

 

[Neal]

Dear Mark S,

Try the forum search using RA-4 Trays. You will find lots of threads on the subject (including tube processing).

Neal Wydra

 

[davetravis]

Mark,
Ilfochrome, in the US, is getting harder to find.
You can still get most of the papers from B&H, but they won't ship the chemistry, and that's getting harder to find.
Rainer Photographic had some P3.5, but now it seems the whole country is on backlog.
Sounds like you already have the right setup to try some, you can find the Ciba filters on the bay anytime.
Try some 8x10's on the CPS1K using the P3.5 kit, and get ready to yell WOW!!!
Good luck.
DT

 

[ben-s]

3) If NO to the above two questions, then I suppose I would have to do it using a colour negative process - I assume that C-41 can't be much harder than E-6 - what about printing - what is involved there?

I've been doing C41 in my CPE2 recently. My first impression was: This is as easy as B&W!
I am using Tetenal soup, the rapid stuff - that was all I could get my hands on.

The Blix stinks, but apart from that it's fun.

 

[Dug]

Hey Dave!

I got a call yesterday - the backordered P3.5 kits arrived at Rainier Photo so time to snap up some chemistry. I am keeping a rotating stock of CPM1K in the freezer. Also, 11X14 has been dropped from the catalog in a couple of the different grades. I am not looking forward to slicing off pieces from a big roll of Ilfochrome in complete darkness, but that may be our option in the future. Material costs (paper and chemistry) for a 16X20 Ilfochrome is closing in on the twenty dollar mark... Ilfochorome is such a blast, but it $ure get$ expen$ive.