Thinking about picking up a Zone VI print washer

[logan2z]

I currently have a Nova Washmaster Eco and like it quite a bit, but it has a small capacity of 5 prints which I'm starting to find limiting. I've been looking at a Zone VI washer for sale in my area and I'm wondering if anyone can comment on how effective they are at an 'archival' wash. They seem to have been used by a lot of well-known photographers (including Ansel Adams, apparently) so I assume they do the job well enough, but I know the design was based on some controversial ideas from Fred Picker about hypo being heavier than water and so I wonder how well the washers work in practice.

The one for sale in my area is missing the plastic top plate that is supposed to prevent prints from floating up out of the wash slot. My Nova does not have a top plate (not part of its design) and I've never had an issue with prints floating up and not washing completely, but I'm wondering if this will be an issue with the Zone VI. I wonder if it's something I could easily replicate with some materials from TAP plastics.

Any/all thoughts on the Zone VI washer and how it might compare to the Nova would be welcome. Thanks in advance.

 

[Pieter12]

I have had a Zone VI washer for about 5 years now, and although I haven't done any formal testing, the prints seem fine. You will need something to keep he prints from floating above the dividers. I'm sure a local plastics store could cut something for you. Biggest pain is emptying the washer every so often since there is no drain at the bottom, it needs to be siphoned out. Once again, a drain outlet could be cut a the bottom if you or someone else is capable.

 

[logan2z]

I have had a Zone VI washer for about 5 years now, and although I haven't done any formal testing, the prints seem fine. You will need something to keep he prints from floating above the dividers. I'm sure a local plastics store could cut something for you. Biggest pain is emptying the washer every so often since there is no drain at the bottom, it needs to be siphoned out. Once again, a drain outlet could be cut a the bottom if you or someone else is capable.

Thanks for the info.

FYI, the model I'm looking at has a drain plug. Apparently later production models did include one.

 

[Paul Howell]

For large capacity I use my old drum washer, it uses water to spin the drum. I have a unnamed slot washer, it will hold a large number prints, 2 8X10s in 8 slots or 8 11X14, but I can wash up to 20 to 25 11X14. I fill up the washer and add the prints one by one until my session is completed. Then I spin up the drum for a 5 mint wash, the back in tray with perma wash for 5 mints, i shuffle the prints top to bottom for agiation, than back in the washer for 7 mint wash. Perma Wash clamins at little as 5, 5, 5, but I do an addtional few mints. I test with PF's hypo residule test on the back of test stipt that is washed with the prints. As good with my slot washer. It may use more water, but for saving in time. May be hard to find, did not see any on Ebay.

 

[jeffreyg]

I have and have used a Zone VI print washer that takes up to 16x20 prints. It does have a drain and a top. I have never needed to use the top or had a problem with floating prints. The suggestion to have a plastics fabricator make one will easily work if you find a need for one.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I've fabricated several slot washers of my own, up to 20X24 print size. Tap Plastics has scrap bins where slightly scratched or blemished leftovers are sold at a discount. You'll need approx 1/4in thick acrylic sheet for the housing (unless it's just for small prints), and 1/8 or 1/10th inch clear acrylic for the dividers.

Unless they cut all the components for you, which will cost more, you need to be able to cut each piece with perfectly squared sides and perfectly flat even edges. After sizing, a router table and Formica bit can be used for edge easing. This is important because all the "gluing" involved is actually capillary-effect solvent cementing. If you are unfamiliar with this, Tap probably offers tutorials along with supplies.

It takes a special kind of circular saw blade, which has to be fed perfectly straight. It took me an afternoon per washer; but I'm very well equipped to deal with plastics. The end result was better than the Z VI model - more water efficient and better circulation too. One of the conspicuous problems with theirs is just too many crowded dividers, not allowing ideal circulation around both sides of each print. My own washers are equipped with little silicone dimples on these septums to keep the paper from sticking to the acrylic during washing.

Septums themselves do not need to be glued in, but simply spaced apart. Tap has lengths of various thicknesses of square linear acrylic which can be glued in to serve this spacer purpose, or else simple little square cubes, which they also stock.

Adding a draincock and outlet hose hole requires care. When you drill into the acrylic, use a special "steeple bit" with a long gradual taper, especially made for brittle plastics. Tap has those too.

You can test the efficiency of your completed washer using a little food coloring dye.

I do recommend a top cover. If you need to re-wash a print after it has already dried, like for a later toning session, they have a tendency to float.

 

[logan2z]

I do recommend a top cover. If you need to re-wash a print after it has already dried, like for a later toning session, they have a tendency to float.

Wouldn’t briefly soaking a print in a tray of water before inserting it into the washer solve that problem?

 

[DREW WILEY]

Yes, but it depends on the type of paper and how long it has been dry. "Brief" might amount to half an hour in a stubborn case.

 

[Alan9940]

I've used my 11x14 Zone VI print washer for about 45 years and, though I've never done any formal testing of its archival wash abilities, I have prints in my portfolio that are around that vintage that look as good today as they did back when I made 'em. So, I would say that these washers do the job.