IMHO:
Fuji Press 800. (AKA the emulsion-batch-matching, 36 exposure version of Superia 800.) Nice and realistic color, sharp grain, incredibly pushable, gives nice fast shutter speeds and/or more D of F...useful for almost any candid/fleeting situation. I have gone up to 9x13.5in. from this film and it looks great to me at any distance...and that series was shot with a 56-year-old lens (at the time) that was made before color film widely existed, and is not known for being a super sharp lens (Summitar 5cm). I wouldn't hesitate to go up to 12x18 with those shots, although I generally like my prints from 35mm to be 8x12 max. It is definitely a pretty raw look like a lot of classic street shots on Tri-X.
The professional-series 800 films (Fuji Pro 800Z and Kodak Portra 800) are a little softer on grain, and therefore also appear less sharp and gritty to me. Not that they are poor films by any means...and the 120/220 availability is a huge plus. They have nice medium contrast and low saturation (whatever the heck "medium contrast" and "low saturation" mean anyhow). That stuff can all be tweaked anyhow when you expose, develop, and print. That's why the good folks at Kodak have given us Portra, Supra, and Ultra to work with (and then screwed us by discontinuing all but Supra).
Or for transparencies: Provia 400. This is a great, great film, IHMO (though I have not tried the X version yet, as I still have plenty of the old stuff in my fridge to burn first). Wish they made an Astia 400, though. When I want to shoot for this look, I overexpose Provia 400 and pull development. Problem is that you have to be set up for Ilfochrome or gum-dichromate printing to get your end result to be a print...and most people are not set up for these printing processes; nor would they even consider being set up for them. Also, good luck finding a lab to make internegs for you. You have to do that yourself. Not even A and I does that anymore. Most who shoot transparencies these days do so to scan and then print. That is a good option as well...but then again, the "A" in APUG does stand for something, doesn't it?
2F/2F