Roger Cole
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How about Tri-X at ISO 1600? Please find grain... XD
Just a test of the 60 Distagon I am renting. Tri-X ISO 1600 (why 1600? Because I was taking some very dark indoor scenes earlier) with Diafine. Pretty sweet...
It could be my meters. I noticed with TMY first came out that it was a full stop slower under tungsten light than daylight, at least for me. Kodak's response curves do NOT bear this out, but it's the result I get, and across a range of several meters (at least two 35mm Pentax with built in metering and my Soligor spot meter for 4x5.) To be fair I don't recall making the comparison with my Luna Pro SBC or with my Mamiya 645 AE prism.
Still, the results I got originally with TMY were with the same meters that worked fine in that light with the Tri-X of those days. I can't explain it, I just know what I have to do to get good results with my equipment and methods.
Modern TRIX is pointless. Tmy is better in every way. If you want something different than TMY, use HP5. If you use Tri-X, you are just using a grainier slower Tmax.
didjiman, I agree. Sweet!
Roger, I checked out your Flickr feed. You have some stunning photographs in your feed.
What on earth is the Tri-X look?
TMY-2 is probably the best all purpose film available today. It's in fact too good for my purposes. I like to shoot a lot of old folders and the sharpness and tonal separation of TMY seems to be at odds with the aberrations that give the old and sometimes damaged lenses their character. Shooting a triplet wide open isn't supposed to be sharp and contrasty. Still, line up a bunch of prints made from various 400 ISO films and I wouldn't be able to tell you which was which.
My issue is that I feel the allure/myth/legend of Tri X stops people from trying TMAX 400 (which is a beautiful film)
Everyone loves to play off nostalgia- everyone wants to pretend they're a 1950s-60s street photographer with a Leica and Tri X
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