When I think about writing about camera or darkroom techniques, I wonder if there is any need to write anything at all.
Sometimes it's already been written as concisely and clearly as can possibly be expressed.
Here is an example that struck me this morning...
THE TEST STRIP
A test strip is one of the simplest things in photography and yet it is one of the most scientific. As a matter of fact, despite all of the advances in determining exposures and correct printing papers for our conditions, this old-fashioned method of determining what is right for our needs has never been surpassed.
When I think about writing about camera or darkroom techniques, I wonder if there is any need to write anything at all.
Sometimes it's already been written as concisely and clearly as can possibly be expressed.
With respect to my writing, the saving grace is that many people either don't have, or don't know where to look for, the pertinent literature. Or they don't know WHAT to look for. So I think my main usefulness is being able to prod them along, perhaps pointing out aspects that they haven't yet seen.
Gerald C Koch,
You raise an important point about test strips, and Lootens emphasized that point as well.
Lootens pre-dated Gene Nocon, who I give credit for coming up with the expression "f/stop time" as applied to test strips.
One great thing about APUG is that when someone asks a question that might be contained in one of those volumes, rather than say "go find it in that book"... We have the opportunity to tell what we think the answer might be. It's great fun.
DannL.
To reveal in the test strip above and beyond too light and too dark... So you might know all the possibilities.
Secondarily, because it's an f/stop-like sequence.
It's NOT loaded with hogwash, though you might easily know everything it offers to teach. Unique in the book is his coverage of retouching with New Coccine, flashing to darken paper edges dramatically and silhouette your subject, combination printing, borders and cut-and-paste montage.
Granted his book is probably very valuable in many areas, and I will probably grab a copy regardless. Of course the "hog wash" statement was tongue-in-cheek. But, nevertheless the highlighted statements in your reply above are exactly what interests me. What aspect of those statements make a difference in the final print when compared to another number sequence used. If I determine that a print deserves 17.5 seconds exposure, does it matter what number sequence was used?
. . . does it matter what number sequence was used? Does it matter if the sequence was f/stop-like? And if so, why? I hope those are fair questions.
It does matter. Even Ansel Adams suggested a simple arithmetical progression in both the 1950 and 1968 editions of The Print. On page 63 of both editions, the test print example shows greater contrast between the 20 and 25 second exposure, and the 35 to 40 second exposure. A wider range of exposures would show even more contrast differences. Once a photographer feels at home with the progressive f/stop number series, it is almost as simple to use as a numerical progression.
I think I know what you were thinking regarding hogwash - some photo books might be a waste of your time.
But I don't know how familiar you are with the whole idea of f/stop timing when enlarging. I swear by it, and find it makes me MORE confident with the times I finally decide, because the differences are visually evenly spaced. When I use third of an f/stop times and Grade 2 paper, I find each step to be practically the "least noticeable difference". I don't often feel any compelling reason to choose a time between steps - either one or the other is right. But in a "Goldilocks" situation, I WILL set the dial between the marks.
So when Lootens talks about test strips from 5-80 seconds, in f/stop times, he's not telling me anything I don't already appreciate regarding the doubling of each successive step.
But he reminds me of a nagging suspicion... that because my usual sequence is a tight series (third-stops down from 40 seconds)... I might be overlooking dramatic possibilities. So my prints might be dramatically different than they might otherwise be because my skies are printed at 40 when they might have looked amazing at 80.
He advised adjusting the enlarger lens aperture to make the 5-80 seconds test strip appropriate because it's a good range of time that gives you time to dodge and burn. But he also spent some time back-pedaling that hard-and-fast rule when circumstances require longer or shorter exposure series.
Since starting this thread, I haven't had the chance to turn on the water... but I have a negative lined up that I plan to print. The negative is one of my "failures," for which I don't have a pre-conceived idea how I would like it to turn out.
Tom Richard,
Maybe it's my inability to learn something very specific, but I have never reached that point. More humbly, anytime I make a print on a full sheet of paper... without first checking with a test strip... I am disappointed with the outcome and the best I can salvage of the situation is that the second print will be OK.
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