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- Mar 12, 2009
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- Medium Format
Well, this is in line with what I found that agitation is not necessary for this film.I love Retro 80s...drop-dead gorgeous when I get it right. Pcat-HD at 12-15 minutes with very very minimal agitation.
I haven’t used 80S much but I didn’t find the contrast particularly excessive. It certainly has a different look to FP4+ though. I developed it in a standard developer, Fotospeed FD10 (which I believe is similar to Ilfosol 3). I used standard agitation.
St Peter's, South Croydon #2
Another picture from a walk around my local area. First time I have used Rollei 80S. I think I...St Peter's, South Croydon #2
Another picture from a walk around my local area. First time I have used Rollei 80S. I think I...
Sounds interesting and the picture looks good. FD10 is a metol-hydroquinone-phenidone developer with carbonate/borate, apparently similar to bath B in Jean Fage's developer, with which I also get good results. Unfortunately, I do not know where to get FD10 here in Canada. Next time I am in the UK, it will be on my list.
It is worth trying. It worked for me but I don't think there is anything special about FD10 really. We used it in the photography club at school many years ago. It is cheap and bomb proof. The other things worth trying to tame contrast are adjustments to exposure and/or developing times.
I'm desperatly trying to straighten the boldly s-shaped curve of the Retro 80s. So far i've tried Perceptol 1+3, Rodinal 1+50 an HC110 dil. H.
With e.g. HC110 for 10 min with 1 inversion each 60 sec i'm getting Zone II logD 0.03 , Zone V logD 0.48, Zone VIII logD 1.58 at EI 64. The results with the other developers are quite similar.
So why bother with this film? Because it would be a nearly grainless IR film with high resolution.
Has anybody found a developer that would provide a 'normal' (i. e. Zone II logD 0.25 Zone V logD 0.7 and Zone VIII logD 1.3) curve with suffucient film speed (EI 50 to 100)?.
Well - I would like to agree with, in exact this way.I haven’t used 80S much but I didn’t find the contrast particularly excessive. It certainly has a different look to FP4+ though. I developed it in a standard developer, Fotospeed FD10 (which I believe is similar to Ilfosol 3). I used standard agitation.
St Peter's, South Croydon #2
Another picture from a walk around my local area. First time I have used Rollei 80S. I think I...St Peter's, South Croydon #2
Another picture from a walk around my local area. First time I have used Rollei 80S. I think I...
I think you are talking about overexposing (or effectively rating the film lower) and/or underdeveloping to a lower contrast. In addition, with high contrast subjects I always have to bracket the exposure. But I am looking for a more radical solution, that is converting this film into a pictorial film by a special developer and then on top of that I have to play with the exposure. The film vendor (Maco) supplies a list of developers and suggestions of developing conditions, but what stroke me initially is that this list is just examples, but says nothing of the contrast. Curiously, in this list the film is mostly rated below box speed. This is the way I am definitely not going, because there are already excellent pictorial films like RPX25 or Pan F. Also, after some reading I think that with Retro 80S I can actually get above box speed and get pictorial contrast at the same time. BTW, in European instructions for developers there is a serious point of confusion in that there used to be a film called Rollei Retro 100, which is a totally different beast.
I was brave enough (silly?) to take it on holiday and decided to develop in a mix of 1ml HC-110 and 1ml Rodinal in 250ml water with minimal agitation after 1 I used box speed and the time in the tank was min vigorous to start. The results pleased me. Time was about 1 hr ans ISO i chose 80. used the Bessa R and Snapshot Scopar 25mmView attachment 187753
I was brave enough (silly?) to take it on holiday and decided to develop in a mix of 1ml HC-110 and 1ml Rodinal in 250ml water with minimal agitation after 1 minute min vigorous to start. I used box speed and the time in the tank was about 1 hr. The results pleased me. ISO I chose 80. used the Bessa R and Snapshot Scopar 25mmView attachment 187753
Welcome to the club.
Have you seen this post by piu: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
A49 is on my shopping list to be prepared for next spring...
Sorry about the delay but the rural gite in France has very poor i-net access.. The mix was prompted by curiosity and a guess. The HC-110 is very buffered and the mix had the pH of HC-110 (8.8). The buffering is like Rodinal with added borax/boric acid buffered pair and that has a reasonable following. I chose to let it semi-stand 'cos that is what I am used to.
That's it really.
Thanks for the comments.
Look above - you just answer exactly that way to your own question - nothing else
is to be said in addition.
Well it is a nice cheap IR film.Look to princing of other IR films.
And it is with very smal grain with lower E I. for example ISO 40 - ISO 20.
The tonal range of other special emulsions you can't expect from my point of view.
But with lot of experience it is surlely
possible to top this characteristic a bit.
But notice sharpess with the use of rodinal will reduce the fine grain characteristic.More tonal range will normaly reduce resolution (I hope this is correct - it is logical - but I am not sure to 100%).
Everything is a compromiss between different parts of performance.
The compromiss of this emulsion is a bit
"compromissless".....in concern if best
resolution is an actual need with aereal
photography.
And thats fine - so retro 80s is a remarkable high quality film.
Use fomapan 100 if you want a better tonal range - for example.
with regards
The price of Retro 80S was not the leading factor in its selection for me, since where I live every film costs ten bucks or more, and I know from my travels that today in the film market you do not necessarily get what you pay for, but you need to familiarize yourself with different films in the 25-100 ISO category. So, If you hint that I am after a cheap IR film or a cheap film in general, I am not. The initial motivation was to put current films into categories of how they survive development in a lab, which typically uses either D-76 or T-Max developers. Then I sorta got carried away with the process.
The price of Retro 80S was not the leading factor in its selection for me, since where I live every film costs ten bucks or more, and I know from my travels that today in the film market you do not necessarily get what you pay for, but you need to familiarize yourself with different films in the 25-100 ISO category. So, If you hint that I am after a cheap IR film or a cheap film in general, I am not. The initial motivation was to put current films into categories of how they survive development in a lab, which typically uses either D-76 or T-Max developers. Then I sorta got carried away with the process.
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