The Pros & Cons of Using a Holga 60mm Lens on a Canon M6

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John Phive

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I'm still game for this and I've created a list of Pros and Cons while using the Plastic Holga 60mm lens on my Canon M6. Although I've not yet bought the holga lens, I thought best to run down a list of a few concerns I've had the the toy camera and what I'm hoping to see and end up while using the Holga lens on the Canon body.

Holga 120n requires on to seal any light leaks, buy and load medium format film into the camera, then seal the camera again. it's not that easy for someone like me to load the film onto spools inside the camera. often I've dropped and exposed filme while loading and extracting the film. Thus all images were lost. Then there's the hassle of sending the film out to be developed and the last time I did this.. they did not follow my instructions and wasted the images.

Then there's the point where I could develop the film myself, but I'm not set up in this house to use chemicals etc and have a small darkroom. I'm just not willing to go though that point in my life when I use to do this for classes. Once and if the film has been developed, one could ask the shop to put the images on a flash or CD or even get the image printed.

I'm finding myself asking for the negatives and placing them on a small like box, and using the Canon M6 on a tripod take pictures of the negatives, forward them to an online editing software site, flip the negatives in the correct orientation. As a for instance, the attached image of the "under the overpass" is an image form the Holga 120n, developed negatives, placed on a small light box and using the Canon M6 take a photo of the image afterwards.

Often the negatives are too dark to be seen and once on the light box, I'd have to figure out which way the image is suppose to have been taken. Even with the Holga 120n I never adjusted the 4 setting focus ring for my shots. One main reason for not using the focus ring is because I had a 3D printed shutter adapter printed and when attached to the camera, it hid the focus ring icons.

So when some votes for this image, I suspect they do not realize how much I have to do to archive and image like this. Taking the picture is one thing.. setting it up to be displayed afterward is another.

Now onward to adding the 60mm lens to the Canon M6 which should be easy.. However, an EF-M adapter will be needed. Plus one will need to adjust the camera settings accordingly to allow for constant shooting without a lens. The f/8 is going to be the biggest challenge, though the Canon M6 has always been very sensitive to and very useful in low light.

As for an instant gratification with the Holga 60mm on the Canon M6, I should be able to actually use the focus ring for the first time assuming I can actually see what needs to be seen on the Camera's small view screen. I'm considering a view screen hood that will help me see the screen better as there's been times when I've just had to point and shoot because I couldn't see the screen due to the lighting or glare around me.

Last point here is that because i'm not talented enough to master post processing, the images I take with this setup will end being what they are and how I've intended them on being. I suspect that I'll have to adjust the camera from the landscape mode to the portrait mode in order to achieve the desired effect without a lot of wasted space.

Oh btw, When adding a 60mm lens onto a Canon EF-M adapter on a crop sensor camera, my focal length should be 90mm @f.8

If you have something to add that I may have overlooked, please post your info below.
 

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Dustin McAmera

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My most-used camera is an EOS M50. It's not so different from the M6; it has a viewfinder built-in, where you have to add a shoe-mounted one to the M6. I also love how well the camera keeps going as the light fades. I have bought adapters to let me use several of my old film-camera lenses on it.

I would consider other lenses, unless you really like the view you get with the Holga for itself. If you like that focal length, you could get a Helios-44 58mm f/2, for example; it's the standard lens that was sold with soviet Zenit cameras for some years, and it's quite easily found with an M42 screw-mount (again, you'd need an adapter to fit it to the camera).
 

4season

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Biggest potential problem I see is that much of the Holga blur and vignetting will likely be cropped by APS-C or even FF/MF sensors, and the result might look more "normal" than you like. Perhaps a body cap fitted with simple plastic meniscus lens from a disposable camera will be closer to the mark? Also consider a pinhole body cap!
 
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John Phive

John Phive

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Thanks to both of you, My main goal is to get away from thinking I have to post process images.. I'm not going for the clearest image, merely taking pics of what I see and have the camera/lens acescent what I've taken a picture of. I think, with the Holga lens this should accesent the shadows more than any other lens I've attempted to us and I don't want to keep spending hundreds of dollars on lens that never achieve the desired effect. Currently all I have are holga images posted on fstoppers page shown here.. later I'm hoping to add images from the canon holga combo.
 

Dustin McAmera

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I use my photos straight out of my M50 without adjustment, more than nine times out of ten. I got the camera (it's my first serious digital) because I ground to a halt with film photography - I had a backlog of film to be developed, and another of developed film to be scanned, and it all became too much of a chore. So there was no way I was going to spend hours adjusting levels and swapping Canon's (pretty-good) colours for some scheme of my own.

My most-used lenses are the Canon EF-M 22mm f/2, a 7Artisans 35mm f/1.2 (manual-focus standard; lovely, very cheap, but a bit prone to flare from any lamps in the scene), and the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8; one of the cheapest lenses Canon sells; that's equivalent to about an 80mm, so I've put a short-tele hood on it.
Others I have adapted for it include several Zenit lenses including the Industar-22 50mm f/3.5 and Jupiter-11 135mm f/4, and a Canon FD 85mm f/1.8.

I often use manual exposure in low light; I adjust the exposure settings and use the live view in the VF to judge when I like what I see. I find the rendition in the VF is a pretty good guide to how the photo will look. Note again, I'm talking about the viewfinder; I don't find using the screen as comfortable.
 
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John Phive

John Phive

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Thanks for the useful comments as this forum along with DPreview have offered some of the best suggestion when dealing with the adapter lens topic.
 
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