the paper's in the fixer - how long do you wait until you turn the lights on?

[phritz phantom]

hi
the classic rule is to wait for a minute to turn on lights (iirc, this is even mentioned in the ansel adams books)... but this is for the classic fixer.
how much time if sufficient for rapid fix? (ilford rapid fix, in my case)

i always wait for a minute, but everytime i wonder, if only 30s would be fine too...

thanks.
(from a very impatient darkroom user)

 

[Steve Smith]

I'm impatient so it's just a few seconds. If you use a stop bath and it does what it's supposed to then there shouldn't be a problem.

I'm sure someone will tell me otherwise though!


Steve.

 

[ath]

ten to fifteen seconds.

 

[phritz phantom]

not any longer??
with which kind of paper?

i forgot to mention, that i use fb paper.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

As you stated, it depends on the fixer. I use Ilford Hypam at 1+4. It fixes fiber based paper in 60 seconds. I turn on the lights after 20 seconds.
If you had mixed that fixer 1+9, the fixing time is 120 seconds. I would not turn on the lights after 20 seconds with that, I'd probably wait another 20.
I have no scientific tests to say that this is OK. But comparing two prints, one fixed to completion before turning the safelight on, the other with lights on after 20 seconds - completely the same.
- Thomas

 

[Shawn Dougherty]

I wait about 30 seconds to hit the lights and never had a problem. Seems like a good average from what is being said here.

 

[Andy K]

I wait until the fixing time has finished.

 

[Andrew Moxom]

I use Hypam at 1:9 and only wait about 10 to 15 seconds before the light goes on. I continue with teh light on until 1 minute is done, then I transfer the print to the second fixer bath. Never any problems with any paper that I have seen.

 

[Ole]

10 seconds, but it really wouldn't hurt to turn on the light as soon as five seconds into the stop (if you use stop).

As soon as the developer is neutralised there will be no more development, so the print can only print out very slowly from exposure to very high light levels. Normal "darkroom white light" should have no effect at all.

Theoretically.

So to be safe I always wait until at least 10 seconds into the fix.

 

[Dan Henderson]

I use TF4 fixer. For "keeper" prints, I turn the lights on after 30 seconds in fix, and continue fixing for another 30 seconds with the lights on. I've never had a problem. For test strips, I shorten my water wash to 10 seconds or so, fix for 15-20 seconds, then flip the lights on and pull the test strip from the fixer and back into the wash. These strips start to discolor in a few hours.

I took a printing workshop from Les McLean last summer, and he turns the lights on after the print has been in the fixer for only 10-15 seconds, looks the print over, then finishes fixing it.

 

[eric]

about a second

 

[Steve Smith]

about a second

That's even more impatient than me!

I'm the same with film too. After about twenty seconds in the fix, I take the lid off of the tank and watch the film clear.


Steve.

 

[phritz phantom]

i still can't believe it! with fiber paper?? not pe?
this is great news!!

 

[jim appleyard]

I grew up on FB paper and our photo teacher in high school said "1 minute". It may be a tad conservative, but it's habit now and that's what I do.

 

[argus]

Some 10 seconds with fiber.
Ditto @ Steve: When tray developing negatives, I switch on the lights after 30 seconds, you can see what fixer really does!

Never had any problems with it.

G

 

[jstraw]

45 seconds...but I'm done with that conservatism after reading this thread!

 

[Curt]

30 seconds more or less.

 

[Photo Engineer]

It depends on the paper support and the pH of the fixer.

For FB paper and TF4 with no stop use the longest time, for RC support and a stop and acid fix use the shortest time. This range would be from about 1 minute to about 15 seconds in my opinion for this range of process conditions.

But, I always say "Use what works for you."

PE

 

[Cheryl Jacobs]

I've always waited until about halfway through the fix time. But that's not really based on anything, to be honest.

 

[bdial]

I wait as long as it takes to get to the light switch. The main precaution I take is to make sure the print is immersed in the fixer.

 

[tommy5c]

I follow the same impatient pattern - Dunk - Slosh - Flip the switch. The only thing slowing me down is the walk to the switch. and the occasional panic turn to make sure the paper is put away. (it only needs to happen to you once and it will bring terror forever afterward)

 

[JBrunner]

I have gotten to the point where I just print with all the lights on. You just have to work fast.

 

[fhovie]

Kind of depends on the light - my old darkroom wasn't that bright so right away - my new darkroom is very bright and it requires that I wait at least 30 seconds or it will ruin the print - (I ruined one last night from being impatient)

 

[Maris]

You can turn the lights on before the paper goes to the fix provided it has been agitated for a few seconds in a fresh acid stop bath. I even do this occasionally with tray developed 8x10 sheet film just to freak out some photographer pals who can't believe the film won't fog to black.

Apparently the most sensitive silver halide crystals are consumed in exposure and development and the residual sensitivity of exposed, developed, and stopped film and paper is surprisingly low.

 

[Steve Smith]

The main precaution I take is to make sure the print is immersed in the fixer.

My main precaution is looking over to make sure my box of paper is closed before I turn the light on.


Steve.