The Olympus OM's

[reinis]

Can anyone tell if there's diference between OM2 and OM2n? And what is it?

Can't find right now on the net.
Thanks!
Oh, got it, thanks, never mind!
The "n" adds nothing serious - just some indicators

 

[Mongo]

Check out:

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2/index.htm

You'll find more information there on the 2 and 2n than you'd ever think you'd need. One of the differences between the 2 and 2n is that the 2 will meter a scene up to 60 seconds whereas the 2n will go to 120 seconds. The pages that start at the link above list all of the differences, large and small.

Be well.
Dave

 

[reinis]

Thanks!
I had already seen that page, just read too fast and not accurately enough did not notice.
Now I consider getting an OM, just - the OM4 is somewhat too expensive, but the OM2 and OM2n and OM2s still lack DOF preview.
Still, the OM2s is an interesting choice in my opinion

 

[Earl Dunbar]

All OMs have DOF preview. The button to actuate is on the lens mount, lower right quadrant as you are holding the camera to shoot.

Just about everything you need to know about OMs is in the OM eSIF, at http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/

If I were to choose between an OM2(n) and OM4, I would get the OM4(T). The spot metering is worth the price of admission, and the brighter screens are a bonus.

If anyone can locate a 35UC for me ...

Earl
______________________________________________________________________
OM1, OM1n, OM2, OM2n, lenses, bellows, Varimagnifinder, (2x) 35SP, (2a) XA, 35RC, etc. I'm a sick person.

 

[Earl Dunbar]

Also, be careful of the OM2s. It is a great camera, but there are no replacement circuits for it, and while there are many out there who love the 2s as their primary OM body, if it goes down, it's down. The OM1(n) is all mechanical, and can be repaired almost forever. The OM3(t) is mechanical in terms of actual shooting, so even without batteries you can shoot away. Check Zuiko.com for one of the best Olympus repair persons you can find; John has lots of good info there.

Earl
__________________________________________________ ____________________
OM1, OM1n, OM2, OM2n, lenses, bellows, Varimagnifinder, (2x) 35SP, (2a) XA, 35RC, etc. I'm a sick person.

 

[Woolliscroft]

The OM2n allows TTL flash metering using the OM dedicated flashes, the OM2 does not. I'd call that something serious and it is well worth holding out for the n version. There is also an OM2 spot/program which, as the name suggests has a spotmeter and program auto exposure mode (the 2 and 2n have appature priority auto (+ manual) only). Unlike the other two, which have very long battery lives, the spot/program is very battery hungry (as is the OM-4, but not the OM4Ti), although the spot function is useful enough that you might feel the extra battery costs worthwhile.

As Earl says, none of the OMs lack a DOF preview, which is operated by a small push button on the lenses.

It might be true that the OM-2 electronics are no longer repairable, but I have two, one of which I have had since 1979 and I have found them completely reliable in very heavy and often rough use.

I also have 2 OM4 bodies (one Ti the other not). IMHO they are worth every penny of the extra cost. Their exposure system in particular is still unsurpassed. Their only small weakness, is that the film wind can be a little stiff if the film is not loaded exactly right, so that they can be a little temperamental with power winders.

David.

 

[Earl Dunbar]

David: When I spoke of the lack of circuit boards, I was referring to the OM-2S/Program, not the OM-2(n). I wasn't very clear.

Also, the battery consumption of the OM-4 (non-T/Ti) is sometimes not a problem. Some of them had newer circuits, and the batteries are so cheap that even with a battery drain problem, I wouldn't pass up a well-priced OM-4.

I agree on the reliability of the OM-2 models (and the OM-1 models) ... I've mistreated them and even when they looked a wreck they kept functioning.

Oh, and reinis, the Zuiko lenses are quite good, some of them exceptional. The 100mm/f2.8 is superb for portraits and isolated subjects. The 21mm/f2 is as good as any 21 of its era, and still competitive with many 21s of newer manufacture. Another stellar performer is the 50mm/f3.5 macro. I don't have the latter, but am thinking about it, pending my ability to persuade the CDFO that I really need the new Zeiss Ikon Rangefinder. ;-)

Earl

 

[reinis]

Well, an Om -4T cold cost aout 200-300$? I mean, used on ebay. With (I guess 1,8) 50 mm lenses?
Or what's the admissible cost for such an item?

 

[Canuck]

The OM2n allows TTL flash metering using the OM dedicated flashes, the OM2 does not. I'd call that something serious and it is well worth holding out for the n version.
David.

My OM2 operates quite nicely with an Auto310 flash in TTL mode. Like others have mentioned, the OM2s has some improved circuitry but for flash unit coupling, other than an extra LED for flash readiness in the viewfinder, the older Auto310 does work TTL.

 

[reinis]

Actually it's hard to choose if You haven't looked through the viewfinder and held the body in your hand. And maybe shot some pictures.

 

[Konical]

Good Evening, Reinis,

Ditto to Earl's comments above about Olympus lenses. The sharpest lens I own is the 100 mm f2 Zuiko.

Konical

 

[Earl Dunbar]

Well, an Om -4T cold cost aout 200-300$? I mean, used on ebay. With (I guess 1,8) 50 mm lenses?
Or what's the admissible cost for such an item?

An OM-4t in good to excellent condition will likely run quite a bit more. If $200-300 is your range, go for an OM-4 if you can get one for that money, though you'll probably be more likely to get a very nice OM-2n for that price.

In either case, for a 50mm try to get either the 1.8 that is marked "made in Japan" on the front ring (NOT just "Japan" or "MC") or a 1.4 with a serial # > about 1,108,000. The 1.8 went through at least 5 versions, and the latter "miJ" incarnations are the best and are quite good. The 1.4 improved as well in later versions.

To give you hope, I once bought an OM-2 with 1.4 and pristine leather case for about $65 including shipping. I treated the body to a CLA (most cameras of this age at least need the light seals replaced.

Earl

 

[hortense]

I second the OM-4t suggestion. Have had one since they were first offered. It's my back-up camera to my LF - and what I take when travelling via airlines. Zuiko lenses are THE best! (I have a 28mm, 35mm, 80mm and a 135mm).

 

[reinis]

Also, be careful of the OM2s. It is a great camera, but there are no replacement circuits for it, and while there are many out there who love the 2s as their primary OM body, if it goes down, it's down. The OM1(n) is all mechanical, and can be repaired almost forever. The OM3(t) is mechanical in terms of actual shooting, so even without batteries you can shoot away. Check Zuiko.com for one of the best Olympus repair persons you can find; John has lots of good info there.

Earl
__________________________________________________

Is'nt it the same with all the OM 2 (n, s) and OM 4 - if the electronics stop working, it can't be repaired easily (well, ok, almost impossible).

 

[reinis]

An OM-4t in good to excellent condition will likely run quite a bit more. If $200-300 is your range, go for an OM-4 if you can get one for that money, though you'll probably be more likely to get a very nice OM-2n for that price.

In either case, for a 50mm try to get either the 1.8 that is marked "made in Japan" on the front ring (NOT just "Japan" or "MC") or a 1.4 with a serial # > about 1,108,000. The 1.8 went through at least 5 versions, and the latter "miJ" incarnations are the best and are quite good. The 1.4 improved as well in later versions.

To give you hope, I once bought an OM-2 with 1.4 and pristine leather case for about $65 including shipping. I treated the body to a CLA (most cameras of this age at least need the light seals replaced.

Earl

Ok, I'll keep that in mind.
Do I have to look for a "made in Japan" also on the 1.4 lenses? Or are those with just "Japan" also ok, and the serial > about 1,108,000 guarantees an OK quality?

 

[reinis]

What's the use of automatic diaphragm? I mean the Zuiko "Auto" lenses?
I know some of the russian M42 lenses had Auto diaphragm, which meant it shut only when you press the shooting button, all the other time it's open.
It can't be the same here, can it?
I mean - don't all the lenses have the Automatic Diaphragm Lever?

 

[Woolliscroft]

OM lenses don't have an auto diaphram lever as you can't switch to manual as you can with some Soviet cameras. The only real use for such a lever is to provide DOF preview and there is a separate button for that. The point of an auto diaphram is that you don't have to manually stop down to the taking aperture for metering. The camera meters with the lens wide open then stops down for you when you press the shutter. The result is a much brighter viewfinder image and faster reactions. Virtually all modern cameras are set up like this.

David.

 

[reinis]

But then all the Zuiko lenses are like that, right?
They're confusing me

 

[BruceN]

Olympus rocks!

Glad to see so many other Olympus OM users here! I've used OM equipment since I got my first SLR back in '83 (an OM-2n). My current hiking/outdoor setup consists of 1 OM-2n(the same one), 1 OM-1n (Backup/Need the mirror lock up for the absolute sharpest images), T-32 Flash, Zuiko lenses - 24mm/f2.8; 50mm/f1.4; 50mm/f3.5 Macro; 35-70mm/f3.6; 200mm/f4; 300mm/f4.5; plus a Hoya 135mm/f2.8 (nice, very sharp lens); and a Sigma 500mm/f7.2 APO. All of this fits nicely into a Lowepro Rover AW II pack (with the 30mm and 500mm lenses in add-on lens pouches) and a Manfrotto 3001BPRO tripod with 3030 head straps to the pack to complete the picture. The top compartment of the pack has plenty of room left over for filters, film, spotmeter and lunch.

Be careful getting started with Olympus OM gear, the dangers of becoming a Zuikoholic can put you in the poorhouse rather quickly!

 

[reinis]

The thing that terrifies me the most is that if something happens to the electronics, throw the thing away. Especially if You buy an usec camera

 

[BruceN]

The thing that terrifies me the most is that if something happens to the electronics, throw the thing away. Especially if You buy an usec camera

This isn't an issue with the OM-1's and 1n's, and there are enough spares and parts cameras out there to keep the OM-2's and 2n's running for the forseeable future. It's my understanding that the electronics in the 3's and 4's are much more delicate and hard to find replacements for, that's the reason I decided to stick with the 1n and 2n. I simply do my spotmetering, when required, with a Pentax Digital Spotmeter.

 

[Earl Dunbar]

reinis: Breathe deeply, it's actually very simple. The OM-2S/Program is the most problematic when it comes to repairs, but it is not so fragile as to not be a great camera. The OM-3 and OM-4 bodies are going strong, but if you were to have a problem with them, repair would be more expensive. John H. at Camtech/Zuiko.com can do circuit-level repairs if necessary, though there might be a case in which he could do a repair economically. I.e., he might have to scavenge a circuit board from another OM-3/4 for parts, etc.

FWIW, if I could get a super deal on an OM-4t (or OM-3t), I'd go for it in a blink, assuming I could get it into the house without "you-know-who" seeing it. ;-)

Earl

 

[reinis]

So most of You would suggest the OM4T or if I can't afford, then the OM2s, right?

The dual mirror - aren't they noisy?
And isn't something like this brutality? http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-100.html
And does the viewfinder of the OM4 show both needed shutter speed and set shutter speed in aperature priority mode?
I can't find anywhere any picture of what the viewfinder looks like and what does it show. So it should show the aperature as well, I guess.
And what does this "highlight mode, shadow mode, " mean for the viewfinder?
And what's the max exposure time? The OM2 had 60 seconds, the OM2n - 120. It should not be less tna these 60 seconds.
Or am I asking too many questions here?

 

[Earl Dunbar]

reinis: The batteries used in the OM-2, OM-2n, OM-2S/Program, OM-3 and OM-4 are 2x 357,(or its replacement 392/384,) LR44 and compatible. Use ONLY silver, not alkaline or lithium. The characteristic power curve of the 357/392/384 type batteries is to maintain a stable 1.5v until the end of their life. (see http://zuiko.com/PAGE15.HTML) These batteries can be had very cheaply through mailorder and will last as long as 6 months -year depending on usage. I think the battery drain problem is WAY over-hyped.

Also note that the spot metering on the OM-2s and Spot/Program is only in manual mode.

BTW, I saw some OM-4s on eBay that might go within your price range, so don't give up hope. And shop other sources, too. KEH sometimes has good deals on an OM-4, and their ratings are very conservative from what I've gathered.

Enjoy!

Earl

 

[Earl Dunbar]

Also, pay no attention to Rick Oleson's modification. "Monstrosity" is what I would call his chop job (with all due respect to Rick!) ... a sacrilege to the OM and all real Zuikoholics!

Earl