The magic of pencil masking - A worked example

cliveh · Jul 19, 2014

A great technique and one that can presumably also be used in contact with the paper from enlarger projection, as opposed to contact with the negative.

JackRosa · Jul 19, 2014

cliveh said:
A great technique and one that can presumably also be used in contact with the paper from enlarger projection, as opposed to contact with the negative.

Indeed, one can create a Mylar dodging (or burning-in) mask to be on top of the paper instead of on top of the negative. In order to avoid edge effects, I suggest a (very clean) piece of glass on top of the paper, a sheet of Duratrans for diffusion on top of the glass, and the Mylar mask on top of the Duratrans (or other diffusion material). At "full size', imagine the control you have!

My preference is for the Mylar mask to go on top of the negative. The reason? . . . . once you create the Mylar mask, it is good for any enlargement size!

JackRosa · Jul 19, 2014

Michael R 1974 said:
Paper plane masking can be done but is more difficult to pull off. It is usually reserved more for small format negatives in which case making a selective/pencil mask then size of the negative is tricky. Paper plane masking is usually more helpful for masked flashing (non image exposure) than burning and dodging. Remember, you can't put diffusing materials between the lens and paper during image exposure or else you'll end up with a diffused print.

CORRECT YOU ARE MICHAEL. I was about to post NO DIFFUSION MATERIAL above the glass on top of the paper. My brain skipped gears earlier - I was thinking contact printing.

cliveh · Jul 19, 2014

I also understand Michael's point, but could you do it with transparent material on paper, like acetate or glass?

JackRosa · Jul 19, 2014

Acetate/Glass on Paper

cliveh said:
I also understand Michael's point, but could you do it with transparent material on paper, like acetate or glass?

I never had much luck with dye or ink on acetate and then directly on paper. Always had ugly edge effects. I suppose someone with more skill than me could do it; it just never worked for me.

I <again> vote for Mylar dodge/burn or acetate dodge (using ink or dyes) above the negative, with diffusion material between the mask and the negative or between the mask and the sandwich (negative + unsharp mask), or (negative + whatever mask).

I have used tracing paper (and pencil shading) and it also works - in case one does not have Mylar sheets readily available. By far, I have had the most success with the Mylar sheets.

JackRosa · Jul 19, 2014

Hey Michael . . . . I just realized you are in Montreal! I lived in Montreal in the late 70's ... while attending school. Fantastic city! Very cold, however.

cliveh · Jul 19, 2014

Michael R 1974 said:
Yes this can be done, but it is tricky to do. I would tend to call the process of using hand-drawn/inked/dyed masks for image exposure (burn/dodge) at the paper plane a last resort. Paper plane flashing on the other hand is less problematic.

Tip: If you are planning on using a pencil or ink burn/dodge mask at the paper plane (for example a sheet of clear acetate sitting on a sheet of clear glass), make sure the glass is on the printing paper the whole time, not just for the burning/dodging. Otherwise you could end up with some blur or a double-image due to refraction from the glass.

Thanks Michael, but why would you need acetate and glass, surely one or the other?

cliveh · Jul 20, 2014

Michael R 1974 said:
Jack: Definitely very cold in the winter. I wonder every year when the global warming is going to kick in.

Cliveh: The glass functions primarily as a spacer between the paper and the mask to help diffuse the drawing, imperfections etc. on the mask a little (of course you could work directly on the glass but then you'd need a different sheet of glass for each negative and/or print size).

I understand, thanks.

The magic of pencil masking - A worked example

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