The little bits and pieces

Donald Qualls · Jan 14, 2023

eli griggs said:
Thomas darkroom light

I'd agree, these were the best darkroom safelights ever created. Unfortunately, it's become almost impossible to find the required Low Pressure Sodium replacement bulbs. The nearest you'll come these days would be the 595 nm amber LED bulbs from Superbright LEDs -- narrow cut, and a 2W is brighter than I'm used to for a darkroom. It ought to be possible to retrofit a Thomas housing with four of these and get roughly the same light.

MattKing · Jan 14, 2023

The Thomas Sodium Vapour Discharge lights are great for a darkroom where it is okay to leave the safelight on throughout the printing session. I prefer safelights that can be turned off while printing, except when working in a darkroom where the printing and processing is separated enough to make it easiest to see the projected image on the paper.

Donald Qualls · Jan 15, 2023

Shading the enlarger easel from the safelight isn't a huge problem in return for having a bright darkroom.

BHuij · Jan 15, 2023

I recently started taking a bit more of a DIY approach to my chemistry. Switched from Ilford MG developer to E72 for paper, and added Mytol for film. I like working one-shot, so I designed and 3D printed some "one-dose" capsules to hold all the chemical components separate from each other, which can be screwed into the bottom of the shelf where I keep my trays, paper, etc. I can just unscrew one of the capsules, dump it into the bottle, add water, and shake it up at the start of a print session or when I want to develop a roll of film.

MattKing · Jan 15, 2023

Donald Qualls said:
Shading the enlarger easel from the safelight isn't a huge problem in return for having a bright darkroom.

Depends on the darkroom

GaryBfoto · Jan 16, 2023

I agree the Thompson is a great light but even used in nice condition they are around 150 Dollars, I built this LED one for about 20 bucks.

Donald Qualls · Jan 16, 2023

GaryBfoto said:
Thompson is a great light but even used in nice condition they are around 150 Dollars,

Not to mention that they'll eventually need new bulbs, which might as well be hen's teeth these days.

keithcraigs · Jan 21, 2023

It's a SOX 35, no? not quite endangered; but a little pricey these days - $120 or so. My last one was purchased in 2015 for $35.

Kino · Jan 21, 2023

BHuij said:
I recently started taking a bit more of a DIY approach to my chemistry. Switched from Ilford MG developer to E72 for paper, and added Mytol for film. I like working one-shot, so I designed and 3D printed some "one-dose" capsules to hold all the chemical components separate from each other, which can be screwed into the bottom of the shelf where I keep my trays, paper, etc. I can just unscrew one of the capsules, dump it into the bottle, add water, and shake it up at the start of a print session or when I want to develop a roll of film.

That's a great idea! I had been toying with making up dry chemical "pouches" with an impulse sealer and Mylar bags.

I had the idea to somehow seal-up all the required dry chemistry for, say, D76 in discreet pouches that could be simply torn open and stirred into water to save time.

Maybe some day I will do that...

Xylo · Mar 8, 2023

Some of my favorite darkroom tidbits:
-A Windex bottle filled with Photo-Flo. This makes the concentrate bottle last for ages.
-3 electronic kitchen timers on a plank of wood, perfect for timing Developer-Stop-Fix.
-A clock that ticks or a metronome for the easiest way to dodge and burn.
-LED Warm White light bulbs in 60W and 100W equivalent that I put in my enlargers. Never change a bulb again yet keep the gradation the same.
-Filament 100W light bulbs (two of them) at the bottom of the drying cabinet to make negatives dry faster without dust (they are protected by a suspended cookie pan).
-DIY battery operated safelight with a single 3W LED rated at 660nm. Works fine with both regular paper and litho film. Doubles as a great flashlight.
-A small penlight for setting the timer and darkening things you want to see turn completely black in a print.
-A piece of white perspex for easily flashing prints without removing the negative from the enlarger.
-Cheap knock-off post-it notes for removing stubborn dust on negatives.
-Air-in-a-can that I also use as a safety gas.
-3D printed 6x12 negative holder for my Omega D-II.
-3D printed 4x5 drying rack.
-Anti-adhesive cookie sheet screwed to the wall for squeegeeing prints.

There's probably more that I don't remember right away.

MattKing · Apr 4, 2023

My LPL 7700 enlargers have one irritating feature - when the enlarger is off, so are the display lights that show the settings on the Variable Contrast or Colour Dichroic heads.
That normally isn't a problem, but it is inconvenient when using split grade contrast techniques - it is better to be able to see the settings when switching from one exposure to the next, and without a below the lens safety filter .....
So I looked inside the head, and determined that the displays receive some light through a hole in the frame that passes light from a cavity on top of the diffusion assembly. There is enough room there to put a small in-pocket LED flashlight there, and then close the lid. That cavity is reasonably well separated from the heat coming from the lamp.
Off to the Dollar store - $2.50 + tax later, I have a small flashlight that fits well in the cavity, and provides just enough light to illuminate the dials when the enlarger is off.
No apparent light leaks - success.
Now to figure out how to remind myself to turn the flashlight off at the end of each session!

Donald Qualls · Apr 4, 2023

MattKing said:
Now to figure out how to remind myself to turn the flashlight off at the end of each session!

Put rechargeable cells in it, buy two sets, and keep one set in the charger. Then just swap the cells at the start of each session. If they're NiMH they won't even care about being fully discharged.

madNbad · Apr 4, 2023

MattKing said:
My LPL 7700 enlargers have one irritating feature - when the enlarger is off, so are the display lights that show the settings on the Variable Contrast or Colour Dichroic heads.
That normally isn't a problem, but it is inconvenient when using split grade contrast techniques - it is better to be able to see the settings when switching from one exposure to the next, and without a below the lens safety filter .....
So I looked inside the head, and determined that the displays receive some light through a hole in the frame that passes light from a cavity on top of the diffusion assembly. There is enough room there to put a small in-pocket LED flashlight there, and then close the lid. That cavity is reasonably well separated from the heat coming from the lamp.
Off to the Dollar store - $2.50 + tax later, I have a small flashlight that fits well in the cavity, and provides just enough light to illuminate the dials when the enlarger is off.
No apparent light leaks - success.
Now to figure out how to remind myself to turn the flashlight off at the end of each session!

How about a note on the darkroom door?

snusmumriken · Apr 4, 2023

Lovely birthday present. For decades I’ve been doing retouching with fine watercolour brushes that are annoyingly supple. I didn’t know that purpose-made retouching brushes with short business ends existed. Now I can even compare synthetic and natural.

eli griggs · Apr 4, 2023

Make sure you do a through cleaning of those Kolinsky hair brushes and never use "India ink" or any shellacked ink on them, the pigments will travel down the upside down brush, in-between the hairs and into the ferule, where it'll accumulate, making it impossible to have a clean, thin tip, it's entire reason for being.

These are good brushes, so put a loop of wire, (do no dig into the paint and wood), string, or tape, and ALWAYS, hang them hair point down from a homemade or pre-made brush holder, after the Chinese and Japanese design.

I suggest you make the effort to buy a tube of Windsor Newton "art gel" to clean them very well with, or a tiny tube of "Masters" art soap.

Both will do the job, and each leaves a slightly oil like lubrication to condition the hairs with.

After rinsing, make a sharp, downward snapping action with your arm to throw out and down any excess moisture and then 'point' the hairs into a final sharp pin tip.

Again, store brush hairs downward and, Remember, if you do no have time to do your spotting And Clean Your Brushes, wait until you do have the time, to do it right.

Cheers.

MattKing · Apr 4, 2023

Donald Qualls said:
Put rechargeable cells in it, buy two sets, and keep one set in the charger. Then just swap the cells at the start of each session. If they're NiMH they won't even care about being fully discharged.

It takes button cells - small light = tiny batteries.

madNbad said:
How about a note on the darkroom door?

Which is also the bathroom door
At the end of each session I have to disassemble a bunch of stuff. I think I'll put the reminder on the light sensitive nightlight that I always unplug for each darkroom session

snusmumriken · Apr 4, 2023

eli griggs said:
Make sure you do a through cleaning of those Kolinsky hair brushes and never use "India ink" or any shellacked ink on them, the pigments will travel down the upside down brush, in-between the hairs and into the ferule, where it'll accumulate, making it impossible to have a clean, thin tip, it's entire reason for being.

These are good brushes, so put a loop of wire, (do no dig into the paint and wood), string, or tape, and ALWAYS, hang them hair point down from a homemade or pre-made brush holder, after the Chinese and Japanese design.

I suggest you make the effort to buy a tube of Windsor Newton "art gel" to clean them very well with, or a tiny tube of "Masters" art soap.

Both will do the job, and each leaves a slightly oil like lubrication to condition the hairs with.

After rinsing, make a sharp, downward snapping action with your arm to throw out and down any excess moisture and then 'point' the hairs into a final sharp pin tip.

Again, store brush hairs downward and, Remember, if you do no have time to do your spotting And Clean Your Brushes, wait until you do have the time, to do it right.

Cheers.

That seems very good advice, much appreciated.

Xylo · Apr 4, 2023

eli griggs said:
the pigments will travel down the upside down brush

Chinese calligraphy brushes have a small loop on the end that you use to dry them with the bristles down. Once completely dry, you then set them in a cup with the bristles up. They also sell nicely carved drying racks to dry them.

madNbad · Apr 4, 2023

MattKing said:
It takes button cells - small light = tiny batteries.

Which is also the bathroom door
At the end of each session I have to disassemble a bunch of stuff. I think I'll put the reminder on the light sensitive nightlight that I always unplug for each darkroom session

Next time you're at the Dollar Store, look for the paper tags with the string attached. I make up a 500 ML bottle of fixer and use them to keep track of when it was mixed and how many rolls it's been used for. You could hang one on the doorknob and even if you forget it, it won't be in anyones way.

MattKing · Apr 4, 2023

As it turns out, I need a reminder to turn it on too!
As the saying goes, it takes at least 40 repetitions before something becomes a habit.

mshchem · Apr 4, 2023

OK, how goofy am I? I swiped a couple specimen cups from the doctor's office yesterday. Really cool with screw top lids.100mL perfect for warming doses of color chemistry.

madNbad · Apr 5, 2023

mshchem said:
OK, how goofy am I? I swiped a couple specimen cups from the doctor's office yesterday. Really cool with screw top lids.100mL perfect for warming doses of color chemistry.

Were they empty?

mshchem · Apr 5, 2023

madNbad said:
Were they empty?

Ha, yes and have a tamper proof seal. I had a fleeting thought of asking for mine back. Nixed that idea and fled with my treasure.

Donald Qualls · Apr 5, 2023

mshchem said:
tamper proof seal.

Unless your doc uses different bottles from mine, that's "tamper evident" and you can't open the bottle to fill it without breaking the seal...

mshchem · Apr 5, 2023

Donald Qualls said:
Unless your doc uses different bottles from mine, that's "tamper evident" and you can't open the bottle to fill it without breaking the seal...

Correct, and seal was unbroken

The little bits and pieces

Donald Qualls

MattKing

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Donald Qualls

BHuij

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GaryBfoto

Donald Qualls

keithcraigs

Kino

Xylo

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Donald Qualls

madNbad

snusmumriken

eli griggs

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snusmumriken

Xylo

madNbad

MattKing

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mshchem

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Donald Qualls

mshchem

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