Claire Senft said:On a different thread Mr. Sandy King suggessted to another person (Kirk Keyes) that a thread on flare as it pertains to exposure and development. Mr. Keyes passed.
I find this to be a topic of much interest. I believe that exclusive of the use of filters, it is the hardest variable to predict and to control. I already am aware of the BTZS technique of making a general allowance for flare.
How do you allow for and control the flare variable in your personal system of exposure and development?
Claire Senft said:I did get lost when you said NEG DR/ LSLR which I understood to be the density range of the negative/ ?. What is meant by LSLR.
Ornello said:Primarily, there is the choice of film stock and the use of flare-prevention techniques in taking. In a photograph that includes an overcast sky, there will unavoidably be an increase in flare, which will affect shadow densities most of all.
Films intended for outdoor/multipurpose use (e.g., old Super-XX) have a short toe, which tends to fight the flare to a certain extent. Film intended for studio use, where flare is much lower (e.g., old Portrait Pan, Ektapan) generally have a longer toe. Using such films outdoors under high-flare conditions tends to yield rather weak, soft shadows.
The number of films available has been severely reduced over the last 15 years or so. The variation in curve types has also been reduced.
See attached.
smieglitz said:Stephen,
"...my "system" for film testing is to use the camera and lens combo I normally reach for, and do tests in camera not in the darkroom. While I know this is not as accurate as using an enlarger to control variables, my basic idea is that flare is inherent and part of my exposure inside the camera. Since film tests are the result of in-camera exposures, flare is included as a normal variable and dealt with in development."
If, for example, I choose to do zone system testing using a specific lens and camera and an average target (gray card), isn't the flare factor automatically taken into account? I mean, as long as I don't change the equipment and I photograph the same types of scenes always (after doing a pictorial test following the gray card density and CI calibration trials), as long as everything comes out in a way I can predict, why should I be concerned with all the computations and graphs regarding flare? Isn't that already visually represented in my personal data?
I don't mean to be dense here (no pun intended), but I see what you are discussing as highly theoretical, great laboratory science, but not of very practical use to me. In a nutshell, I'm after a personal EI, not an ISO measurement of film speed.
FWIW, in practice I've found a CI of about .62 worked better for me with TMY when I printed on Ektalure. (I really haven't made an enlargement or silverprint in a couple years since I moved to LF & ULF and Kodak stopped making every product I liked.) I liked my negative zone I to be about 0.12 above fbf and zone V to be about 0.70 above fbf. IIRC, my paper range was around 1.45 for that scale. I've observed that my negatives tend to be more dense and contrasty than others' but they work well for me.
As an aside, I'm finding your refences to Gustav Fechner and Psychophysics interesting and plan to check the citations you've listed in that regard. Also, I'm not sure anyone actually gave you the answer you were looking for in your thread on the Sunny 16 rule, but I believe that is derived from the "Exposure Formula." An old version of that formula (via AA in "The Negative") takes the reciprocal of the luminance of an object in candles per square foot as the shutter speed while the "key stop" is the square root of the ASA speed. Somewhere Ansel gives the luminance of the clear north sky 45 degrees from the horizon as 256 foot-candles. If one was using ASA 64 film the exposure would be 1/256 second at f/8 for that "average" subject. This would equate to an exposure of 1/ASA @ f/16, here 1/64sec @ f/16 by the Reciprocity Law. I've never read that derivation anywhere, but I believe that is where the Sunny 16 Rule originates.
Joe
gainer said:As to whether we call it scene luminance or scene brightness, Hardy and Perrin in their description of the 4 quadrant approach to the subject of "Rendition of Tone Values" call it scene brightness. ("Principles of Optics", 1932 edition.)
Stephen Benskin said:I think this is another example where theory can be beneficial to practical photography. Actually tone reproduction and exposure are both considered theories, just like gravity is still a theory. Technically, you are always using theory.
The thing about theory is that it is only theory until you need to use it. The variance in film speed is theory, but with it, you are aware the degree of tolerance in exposure and the degree of accuracy. You, yourself are also using theory in your testing with a camera example. It does come in handy.
Ole said:Gary, the attachments are fine if you view them full size. Shrunk to fit the window (by MS Exploder?) they are unreadable as you say.
Ornello said:The contents of the page are really not that important. The page is simply a listing of various Kodak films with the applications for which they are best-suited. The point was the wide variety of Kodak films available for specialized purposes in 1950. Among the traits these films had was differeing toe characteristics, which determines whether they should be used under low-flare or high-flare situations.
I like the Hardy and Perrin book. I first used it at NASA in some simulation and human factors work. A good part of it is aimed expressly at photography in a quite practical way. It's worth having, but you'll have to get it used. Mayhap you will find it at a good library.Stephen Benskin said:Jones called it "brightness" too. I believe the accepted term changed sometime in the 1950s.
I didn't know the "Jones Curve" (4 quadrant reproduction curve) existed as far back as 1932. Thanks for that info.
gainer said:I like the Hardy and Perrin book. I first used it at NASA in some simulation and human factors work. A good part of it is aimed expressly at photography in a quite practical way. It's worth having, but you'll have to get it used. Mayhap you will find it at a good library.
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