The contacts on the bottom of FM?

[olleorama]

Sitting here with my Nikon FM in front of me, and the MD12 motor drive I seriously wonder what the contacts do? You know, the small circular socket with four small contacts. Since this is one of the interfaces between the motor drive and the camera I suspect that they work for the shutter release, correct? But this would be weird since the FM is marketed as a completely manual camera. The shutter could also be actuated through the actual winder thing (the slotted mechanical connector), but that would also be a bit weird. I have this modification I would like to do so if anybody has any ideas on what the different contacts do, or could direct me towards any sites or so I would be thankful.

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

I'm not quite sure what you're asking, but the camera can be (is) fired through the motor drive when it is mounted.

If your project is to fire the camera with some kind of remote release, the motor drive(s) will take an extension cable.

Maybe clarify what your exact goals are...

P.S. The actual firing of the shutter is done through a mechanical pin: Look carefullly at your FM and you'll see a "button" close to the motor mechanical engangement coupling.

 

[olleorama]

On the base plate there is a small circular socket. In the socket there are four small metal contacts arranged in a square.

(sorry for borrowing pics without asking..)

What does these contacts do? What do they control? Can they be operated in anyway to release the shutter? Is it easy? Like short circuiting two of them? I could of course try it myself, but I prefer not to ruin a good camera.

Hmm, if it's the mechanical pin my idea will be a lot harder to do..

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

Hmm, if it's the mechanical pin my idea will be a lot harder to do..

Maybe say what your idea is: There are many possible solutions.
"universal" (i.e. Soligor) winders allow different types of times exposures and sequencing.
Many solutions exist for remote controlling the fireing of a (mechanical) camera.

Again: What is it that you want exactly?

 

[John Koehrer]

The release IS the mechanical pin & the slotted shaft advances film. It is fully mechanical after all.
The contacts are to activate the meter & signal the motor when it's OK to move film. You wouldn't want to advance film mid-exposure.

 

[olleorama]

Maybe say what your idea is: There are many possible solutions.
"universal" (i.e. Soligor) winders allow different types of times exposures and sequencing.
Many solutions exist for remote controlling the fireing of a (mechanical) camera.

Again: What is it that you want exactly?

I would like to fabricate a grip, to make the FM a bit more ergonomical, and if possible it would be nice to have a shutter release on that grip. In that way the grip would be more like on modern SLRs. Frankly, I have big hands, and I like bigger grips. If the electronic contacts controlled the shutter, then a shutter release could have been incorporated in the design a bit easier than if I have to make a mechanical connection between a pin and the aux. shutter release. To sum it up, the goal would have been a more ergonomical grip with a shutter release. Without any winder.

I found another way of getting a better grip for myself, although that way doesn't give any possibility of any shutter release. I found an half case designed to give a better grip. This would also allow getting a better grip on the back of the body so I think I will go this route instead.

 

[olleorama]

The release IS the mechanical pin & the slotted shaft advances film. It is fully mechanical after all.
The contacts are to activate the meter & signal the motor when it's OK to move film. You wouldn't want to advance film mid-exposure.

Thanks. Read my above post if for clarification. It'll be the mentioned plan B then.

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

I would like to fabricate a grip, to make the FM a bit more ergonomical, and if possible it would be nice to have a shutter release on that grip.

A quick answer: You'd probably be better off looking at something involving a flexible shutter release screwed into the main camera' shutter release.

Such things made for other cameras may well aslo fit the FM.

 

[olleorama]

A quick answer: You'd probably be better off looking at something involving a flexible shutter release screwed into the main camera' shutter release.

Such things made for other cameras may well aslo fit the FM.

Any suggestions? I'm too young to remember any such contraptions. I'm younger than the F3

On another note, how many turns of the motor engagement coupling does it take to recock the shutter and wind the film? My winder is out of juice and I don't have 8 spare AAs right now.

 

[olleorama]

On another note, how many turns of the motor engagement coupling does it take to recock the shutter and wind the film? My winder is out of juice and I don't have 8 spare AAs right now.

The right answer is slightly less than half a turn. Will find out the exact number of degrees after I have used the film inside.

 

[olleorama]

Why Oh Why didn't I google. There is something almost as what I want available on the market: http://www.photoequip.net/_forms/fm-grip.htm

Hmm, this will be a hard one, $96 or the shame of having something DIY. Hmm again.

 

[John Koehrer]

The grip you're looking at doesn't have a release in the grip itself, don't know if that's important to you.

 

[budrichard]

I would like to fabricate a grip, to make the FM a bit more ergonomical, and if possible it would be nice to have a shutter release on that grip. In that way the grip would be more like on modern SLRs. Frankly, I have big hands, and I like bigger grips. If the electronic contacts controlled the shutter, then a shutter release could have been incorporated in the design a bit easier than if I have to make a mechanical connection between a pin and the aux. shutter release. To sum it up, the goal would have been a more ergonomical grip with a shutter release. Without any winder.

I found another way of getting a better grip for myself, although that way doesn't give any possibility of any shutter release. I found an half case designed to give a better grip. This would also allow getting a better grip on the back of the body so I think I will go this route instead.

Nikon has done the work for you, simply purchase an Md-11 or Md12 motor.-Dick