The concept of the Ultimate 6x6 Street Stealth Camera

[RezaLoghme]

Decision Tree for Selecting the Ultimate 6x6 Street Stealth Camera​

1. Camera Type​

• Twin-Lens Reflex (TLR): Preferred for ground glass picture composition and discreet operation by looking down.
• Single-Lens Reflex (SLR): Excluded to avoid mirror slap noise.

2. Size and Compactness​

• Compact TLR: Required for ease of use in street photography.
• Bulky TLR: Excluded (e.g., Mamiya C series).

3. Affordability​

• Affordable: Necessary to minimize loss if the camera is damaged in a confrontation.
• Expensive/Cherished Models: Excluded (e.g., Rolleiflex 2.8F, GX, gold-plated collectors' versions).

4. Availability​

• Widely Available: Prefer cameras produced in large numbers.
• Rare/Exotic Models: Excluded (e.g., exotic French cameras, rare pre-war German Zeiss models).

5. Built-in Exposure Meter​

• Required: For convenience in street photography.
• Absent in Many Models: Excluded (e.g., many Mamiya and Rolleiflex TLRs).

6. Appearance​

• Non-Flashy: Prefer cameras with minimal chrome and low profile.
• Flashy with Lots of Chrome: Excluded.

Optimal Choice​

Yashica Mat-124G​

• TLR Design: Yes
• Compact: Yes
• Affordable: Yes
• Widely Available: Yes
• Built-in Exposure Meter: Yes
• Non-Flashy: Mostly, but requires some modification (e.g., de-chroming the lens bayonets and blacking out/removing the Yashica logo).

Customization for Stealth​

1. De-chrome Lens Bayonets: Use matte black paint or tape to cover the chrome parts.
2. Black Out or Remove Logos: Use black tape, paint, or stickers to cover the Yashica logo and any other reflective surfaces.

By following this decision tree, the Yashica Mat-124G stands out as the ultimate 6x6 street stealth camera.

 

[Paul Howell]

Only if you are shooting color and the Yashica light meter is working and accurate. For black and white use Sunny 16, my choice would be a Mamiya 6, the 50s vintage. Folder compact, accurate range finder, excellent lens, quite a bit more work to black out the chrome, although it can be done with gaffer black tape. The fabric tape is matt. A few months ago I wanted to refresh my Sunny 16 skills, used a digital SLR on manual, did not at the meter read out, use the back screen for feedback it all came back to me.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Honestly, I'd include a rangefinder folding camera above either TLR or SLR as a 6x6 stealth street camera. When folded, it doesn't even look like a camera; several models can be folded without disturbing the focus setting and with the shutter cocked (if they don't auto-cock on wind), so you can open the door, frame, and shoot in less time than it takes to focus an SLR with a prism that wasn't preset at a zone focus. The later ones (later Mamiya Six folder models, for instance) have modern-design lenses (newer than the Tessars that seem to be the endpoint of Zeiss models); those often also have frame counters that don't require looking in the red window to advance and automatic shutter cocking.

 

[BrianShaw]

The customization is probably a relatively low value-added consideration.

For true stealth, blend in by using a mobile phone... like everyone else.

 

[4season]

For street photos, I think it's more important to appear non-threatening and of no particular interest - basically hide in plain sight. Because short of possessing a cloak of invisibility, people will see you regardless of whether your camera is totally blacked-out. And I definitely do not want my gear to appear "tactical".

 

[MFstooges]

I'm glad to hear you're detouring to street photo but I don't think MF TLR and SLR should come together with "stealth".
The only stealthy 6X6 camera for sure is Voigtlander Perkeo. It's made in Germany so it fits your taste, unfortunately it's cheap.

 

[RezaLoghme]

The last 3 posts all neglect the WLF-specific non-threatening pose (looks a bit like pre-digital chimping), which is different to aiming a RF at the subject.

So far, my initial hypothesis and AI-augmented reasoning has not proven wrong.

Looking for a nice 124G now...

 

[Pioneer]

I actually perferred the ZI Ikoflex II for street. Very light to carry and easier to focus without having to use the magnifier than any other TLR I ever used. Easier to focus than either the Yashica Mat or the Rolleiflex. In the long run I do prefer the Rollei though as they put up with a lot more use without going out of adjustment or breaking. The MX-EVS with the 75mm Tessar is very sturdy which is a positive for street use.

As for stealth? I hope you like to talk to people. Your biggest worry will be everyone wanting to stop and talk to you about your camera.

 

[MattKing]

You have to gauge for yourself whether the severely reduced peripheral vision that comes from using a waist level finder is more or less important than the other features of that type of camera.
If there is any chance of the location turning violent, I would be reluctant - the chance of getting bopped on the head is likely much higher when you are spending your time looking down.
That may be why 35mm rangefinders remain popular for that sort of work.

 

[Prest_400]

That may be why 35mm rangefinders remain popular for that sort of work.

I would vote for the Mamiya 6. RF 6x6 which is relatively similar to a 35mm RF, just enlarged. There were also some interesting 645RFs. I can infer scaling down from a Fuji 6x9 which is voluminously attention grabbing As some mentioned, hidden in plain sight is also relatively stealthy. 6x6 folders can be quite good.

As for stealth? I hope you like to talk to people. Your biggest worry will be everyone wanting to stop and talk to you about your camera.

That would be my approach with a Medium format camera. I will be traveling later this year with 2 Medium Format rangefinders but not aiming at all to do "street" as I know they are not stealthy and there are limited frames per roll. Mostly would be concerned with surroundings. Again, a 6x6 folder can be interesting and appear harmless due its vintage.

 

[Romanko]

I'd go for a folder.
I am also looking for a stealthy 8x10 monorail camera. Any suggestions? (Just kidding).

 

[Dali]

Hummm... Yashiamat covered with black gaffer tape vs a Leica M with its shiny Summicron... Which one is stealthiest?

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I really like the Rolleiflex for street work. The whole looking down thing is very disarming for most people and they have no idea you're photographing them. And when they do see the camera, most of the time they're intrigued and respond positively. And it is VERY easy to zone-focus and have everything preset so you just have to do a quick composition and click. I also find the controls for it super intuitive.

 

[Pieter12]

My decision tree (no AI involved):

1. If I want to do street photography, it really doesn’t matter how stealthy the camera is. It is the photographer’s technique that counts, not what he or she is using.

2. Truth is, everybody and their uncle is doing street photography, and most of it sucks. So you won’t stand out.

3. If stealth is necessary because of safety concerns, maybe the situation needn’t be photographed.

 

[Dali]

My decision tree (no AI involved):

1. If I want to do street photography, it really doesn’t matter how stealthy the camera is. It is the photographer’s technique that counts, not what he or she is using.

2. Truth is, everybody and their uncle is doing street photography, and most of it sucks. So you won’t stand out.

3. If stealth is necessary because of safety concerns, maybe the situation needn’t be photographed.

Very true but rarely understood.

 

[RezaLoghme]

On a side note, besides a few rare versions of the C330, the 124G seems to be the only 6x6 TLR that has this 70s blacked-out/"shadow line"/"pro" look whereas most other TLRs are rather following 1930s-1950s-based aesthetics.

Just looked it up - the 124G was made until 1986! It co-existed with the first Apple Macintosh and narrowly missed BMW's 12 cylinder 750i.

 

[MFstooges]

The last 3 posts all neglect the WLF-specific non-threatening pose (looks a bit like pre-digital chimping), which is different to aiming a RF at the subject.

So far, my initial hypothesis and AI-augmented reasoning has not proven wrong.

Looking for a nice 124G now...

Should say it on the thread title

 

[ant!]

As mentioned above, your tree misses in #1 rangefinder (from German and Japanese folders to later stuff like Mamiya 6 (new)) and zone focus (folders), even if you might exclude them for various reasons later on.

If you want a TLR which is not too expensive: Depends on the market. I guess in Europe a Rolleicord or a Flexaret should be pretty affordable and easy to find, in other markets something like a Minolta Autocord, Ricoh Diacord or other Japanese post-war TLRs. There is quite a bunch outside of the Yashica Mat. Not saying they are bad, just that there is more...

 

[GregY]

You have to gauge for yourself whether the severely reduced peripheral vision that comes from using a waist level finder is more or less important than the other features of that type of camera.
If there is any chance of the location turning violent, I would be reluctant - the chance of getting bopped on the head is likely much higher when you are spending your time looking down.
That may be why 35mm rangefinders remain popular for that sort of work.

I absolutely agree. The ability to shoot from the hip, to use wide angle lenses up close....in the action. The decision tree seems contrived to me. If you're in the action you're not metering. I also believe it doesn't matter what camera you're using. J Koudelka is a fine example...Use what you have. I also think reloading a 12 exposure 120 film is a detriment in those situations, and i say that as someone who prefers printing from large negatives. 35mm film is king for these situations....Tri-x & be there. Check out the recent work of Eddy Van Wessel.

 

[MTGseattle]

I agree that "street photography" in these youtube, insta, etc days is getting about as tired as decrepit barns and old cars. I stand firmly in the photographing old stuff camp, so criticize all you like.
If you (or any photographer) can establish some type of rapport with your intended subject/group, you would likely be able to photograph them with anything from a Minox to the homemade 20x24 wet-plate monster you just built.

I did a bit of walking around in Seattle last weekend. camera (Mamiya 6mf) out of bag and in hand 90% of the time. I did get some random folks in a few wide-angle frames, but they were not the main subject of the scenes, and not a single person asked about the camera or what/who I was photographing. Without quitting my job and embarking upon a bunch of research and establishing a connection with an individual or maybe a single family who is/are living outdoors, any random portraits of said folks is edging very close to exploitation and serves no purpose in my mind. As to the "average" folks who were downtown; shoppers, runners, tourists, employees on breaks, etc. I didn't see the need to interrupt their day.

I am curious regarding the OP's use of AI in these searches, and I wonder how far and wide the data is gathered from? Is it taking into account comments from video watchers? Think of the discourse that is begun once a "popular" youtuber does a review or a "Barcelona with Portra and an RB67" video. Or "I discovered a "new" camera." Photographer then presents a Speed Graphic.
Think of what it takes us to access something on the internet archive. does an AI enabled search scan all of that stuff? I am intrigued and a bit frightened, but AI is not the focus of this thread.

 

[Chuck1]

Whether your looking down or straight ahead the person you're pointing a lens at can tell

 

[Dan Fromm]

The decision tree seems contrived to me.

Designed to yield the desired result.

 

[MFstooges]

Whether your looking down or straight ahead the person you're pointing a lens at can tell

Exactly

 

[250swb]

If you want stealth go for a TLR because when looking down nobody knows what you are looking at. That said why stealth, it is a bit erm, creepy?

 

[Pieter12]

A TLR for street photography has its disadvantages. Looking down, one is not aware of what might be happening in the surrounding area. That could lead to missed shots or even bumping into people on a crowded street. Sometimes when I do street shooting and want to go unnoticed, I will shoot from the hip with a rangefinder camera and a wide-angle lens that has been zone-focused.