The best rangefinder/lens combo on a budget of £100 (or less)?

[PaperNoire]

So today, I accidentally dropped my Yashica Electro 35 GSN and seemed to have broken the shutter release. The outside still looks pristine, but the shutter just won't release. I may go and ask for a quote on how much it would cost to fix, but I was also just considering buying a new rangefinder altogether.

It may sound silly, I know a few people dislike the camera a lot, but it's practically the only camera I've shot with for the past year... I don't know, I sort of fell in love with it and shot with it exclusively. I'm really, quite heartbroken that it's broken, for lack of better words.

But yeah, thinking on a budget for £100 (or if possible, less), what would you say the best rangefinder (with lens) is? I've been looking at the Zorki 4 series, and that's pretty intriguing stuff, but again I'm not too sure what to look for when buying.

I like to shoot 35mm/50mm lenses mainly (the Yashica was 45mm), and I'm fine with full-manual and or semi-auto/full-auto cameras. Whatever's cheapest and best!

Sorry for the wall of text... I'm still pretty bummed out about it breaking. Sigh, these things happen! I'll inevitably get it fixed at some point, but hey - something else to shoot with while I wait

 

[summicron1]

nothing Russian/Ukranian. They look OK but have dependability problems.

If you like the Yashica, spend the bux to get it fixed or buy another one. An extra 20 or even 50 pounds won't mean a thing in the big picture of things.

 

[ToddB]

Canon QL17 GIII has a lot of horsepower. Go to Flickr pool for QL17's and take a look at what's being shot.

ToddB

 

[Hatchetman]

I think a better camera in good working condition is going to cost more. I'd get your Yashica fixed.

 

[darkosaric]

Today I saw in flea market shop Voigtlander C series (don't remember which model exactly: CS, or CLR, CL?) with 50mm f2.8 color skopar, full rangefinder focusing, full manual control - for 10 euros. In great condition - almost mint. This is the best value for the money.

 

[Tony-S]

You may have a POD issue with your GSN.

I also have a GSN. It's my third favorite 35mm rangefinder behind my Fujica 35 SE and Canon QL17 GIII. But for that much money, you should easily find another GSN.

 

[OptiKen]

I love my Zorki 4...but I love all of my Russian/Soviet cameras when they are working properly.
If the camera has made it this long, reliability isn't an issue as much as just wearing out. If you buy one in person, you can try it out before you buy. If you buy one online you should make sure they have a return policy in case the one you get doesn't do what you want it to. Some things to keep in mind when you look at the older cameras is to make sure the features you need are there - slow shutter speeds? - small and large aperatures? - flash sync? - flash shoe????
My favorite is a Fed 2 because it is so very, very basic. The lenses, however, are excellent and I've spent $40 USD on a russian camera just to get the lens.
Cameras made immediately following WWII were made with Leica and Zeiss parts and Leica and Zeiss workers with Leica and Zeiss machinery. A lot of those are rock solid.
that said, you should be able to get another Yashica 35 like the one you have for less than 100 pounds

 

[locutus]

I just bought a Yashica Lynx 14 for that pricepoint here on the forum, and i'm enjoying it

Great price/performance deal with the f/1.4 lens, and while the viewfinder is no Leica its quite servicable after a cleaning.

 

[removed-user-1]

I second the recommendation of a Yashica Lynx, especially if you're already used to another Yashica rangefinder like the Electro 35. I have a 14E, and I love that 45mm f/1.4 lens!

EDIT: The Lynx 1000/5000/5000e cameras are usually available for much less than the 14/14e models, and have a 45mm f/1.8 lens that is also very good.

The Lynx cameras do not require a battery for anything besides the meter, unlike the aperture-priority Electros, and also there is no "pad of death" syndrome for the Lynx cameras (as far as I know). They are manual-exposure mechanical beauties!

 

[bdial]

It may be a simple fix, if you like the camera, get someone to have a look at it. Or, if you're comfortable with taking things apart, take the top cover off and have a look. With a little luck, the release may be jammed from the drop, and a little tweaking of the top plate will fix it.

 

[PaperNoire]

Thank you to everyone for your helpful suggestions and insight!

So, after sort of giving the camera a bit of a mess around, I've found that the shutter will still release, but a lot more pressure has to be put on it than needed before I dropped it.

So, there's hope after all, and I think I can start shooting with it again! However, thanks a lot for all the suggestions and stuff, I'm definitely going to look into purchasing some new stuff

 

[Tony-S]

What are you doing for batteries?

 

[PaperNoire]

What are you doing for batteries?

...good shout, actually. I haven't actually changed them since I got the camera

It appears to be a 3 volt lithium battery, with a 625A micro cell (I think?) with it

Doesn't have one of those battery mods in it

 

[Tony-S]

I use 1/3N (3V) and 123A (3V) lithium batteries stacked. Provides the 6V needed for the camera and no need for spacer in the battery chamber. Do you have a copy of the manual? If not, I have a PDF with clean fonts and updates for battery and flash information. Just pm your email address and I'll send it along.

 

[gzhuang]

Upgrade to the GX not many of its peers can do 30 seconds long exposure.

 

[Ian Grant]

For well under £100 I've bought Fed 2's in great condition (working well) as well as Jupiter 8 f2 50mm lenses, total cost was around £15 each camera - I have 2.

Ian

 

[AllanD]

Just processed my first roll of B&W from a Yashica Lynx14. Results are mixed, as I have missed focus on some of the indoor shots. I should not be too surprised as the rangefinder on these cameras is one of the things that deteriorates over the years. Apparently, they were not great to start with. Mine is bright enough to be useful, but lack of contrast really hurts it effectiveness. This one factor kind of undermines the camera as a low light tool; surely this camera's raison d'etre? The rangefinder base length probably doesn't help either. The light meter on mine is defunct beyond any possibility of repair as the resistive strips in the lens body (used for aperture and ASA determination) have worn away. Again, I think this is a common problem with these cameras. Also, no click stops on the aperture rings is a royal pain in the arse. The lens is a cracker though and there is nothing quite like it for the price. I paid £26 for mine. Not sure how much a fully working one would cost, but good ones are rare.

 

[Dali]

Konica Auto S2: plain, simple, very good lens.

I would stay away from russian cameras as prices are not competitive anymore: high chance you get an almost junk camera in great need of a CLA... Not sure you can pay it all with £100 and you end up with a working russian camera, not a Leica or a Contax...

 

[Tony-S]

Apparently, they were not great to start with. Mine is bright enough to be useful, but lack of contrast really hurts it effectiveness. This one factor kind of undermines the camera as a low light tool; surely this camera's raison d'etre?

My GSN has this problem, too. I just put a small piece of developed C-41 color film that's clear orange (from the leader) over the rangefinder window. It provides sufficient contrast that focusing is rather easy.

 

[elekm]

I use 1/3N (3V) and 123A (3V) lithium batteries stacked. Provides the 6V needed for the camera and no need for spacer in the battery chamber. Do you have a copy of the manual? If not, I have a PDF with clean fonts and updates for battery and flash information. Just pm your email address and I'll send it along.

Another route that is simple to do is to solder a small battery spring from a AA holder to the cap and use two of the 1/3N batteries.

But I like your approach a lot and as you said, it doesn't require an modifications.

The original battery is 5.7 volts, I think, so the 0.3 voltage difference isn't enough to worry about. The fact that shutters rarely run at their indicated speeds allows enough room for exposure error.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Get another Yashica Electro if you like it that much.

Or go for a Diax IIB with a Xenon lens!

 

[Tony-S]

The original battery is 5.7 volts, I think, so the 0.3 voltage difference isn't enough to worry about. The fact that shutters rarely run at their indicated speeds allows enough room for exposure error.

The GSN has a voltage regulator so it should drop down to 5.7V.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I received Zorki 4 as back cap for Jupiter-3. Nobody wants it for $30 now.
J-3 went on my family FED-2 which is very elegant RF comparing to overloaded and under designed Z-4.
Oly XA is my best under $100 RF. I'm sure you'll be able to find fixed prime Japanese RF for it.
Fully working IIf and I-22 is almost possible as well if you want true classic feel.