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MurrayMinchin

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Remembering a nugget from a long lost thead, I recently filed some small notches into the inside portion of the little flap that the darkslide slides into on the bottom of my film holders.

Slam-dunk identification because the films usually clear edge gets exposed - holder #1, 1 notch, etc...

Whoever it was...THANKS!!!

Murray
 
Murray,

I just bought some 8x10 film holders that were formerly the property of TVA. The rails that hold the film have holes drilled in them that correspond to a film holder number etched on the outside of the holder.

I suspect they did this because they used a large number of holders (I saw 4 cases) and if one leaks or has problems, how do you identify it out of a hundred shots?

Intersting techniques.

Steve
 
MurrayMinchin said:
Remembering a nugget from a long lost thead, I recently filed some small notches into the inside portion of the little flap that the darkslide slides into on the bottom of my film holders.

Slam-dunk identification because the films usually clear edge gets exposed - holder #1, 1 notch, etc...

Whoever it was...THANKS!!!

Murray

You are quite welcome. One of these days I'll notch my 8x10 holders, I don't have enough to be much of a problem now and my 4x5 is mostly Grafmatics.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 
Thanks Gary! That idea is better than cutting the corners off negatives :smile: Sad thing is, it took me 6 months after reading that to actually do something about it...how many other great ideas have I absorbed from APUG that are rattling around my head, unused?

BD, good link. I only have 6 holders, but if I had as many as that guy I would NEED that method off holder identification!!!

Murray
 
MurrayMinchin said:
BD, good link. I only have 6 holders, but if I had as many as that guy I would NEED that method off holder identification!!!
If you use binary notation, 5 notches is sufficient for up to 32 holders. 6 for 64, 7 for 128, and so on.

-- MW
 
Wow! I bought a large box of 4x5 holders recently on the E and wondered why some of them had notches and nicks on the inner flap. Now... to figure out the code...

Thanks guys.
 
Thanks for that link, I made a pdf file of it. People would talk about this technique and I could never see in my mind what part they were talking about altering. Glad they included some pictures.
 
One of the better systems I've seen involved cutting a recess on the flap using a router table, and then printing up transparent labels with a holder number and the photographer's copyright notice that could be glued into the flap, so it would print in the film rebate.
 
I used the same marking method, but based it on Roman numerals. A "U" shape notch for one, a "V" for five and a square bottomed notch "l_l" for ten. "UV" would be number 4. Similarly, "U l_l" for 9.

If you do this, be careful to not go too deep with the notch; otherwise, the bottom will be beyond the film edge and you won't be able to tell a "U" from a "l_l". Also, remember that what you are numbering are the negatives, not the holder, so there are two different numbers coded on each holder.

This is the only way I have been able to take useful notes. I can positively identify each negative after it is developed. I can, also, positively tell which filmholder and what side of that holder is causing problems, if there are any.
 
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