TF4, Tri-X 320, and funny black elastic filaments

[rmartin]

Tonight was the first time I tried the all alkaline process on film using TF4. I was developing night shots on 4x5 TXP320 sheets. I used Clayton F76+ 1:19 as I always do with 4x5 TXP320. Instead of my usual acid stop I used a running water stop for 1 min. I then fixed in TF4 for 5 minutes with near constant agitation. After rinsing but before using photoflo, I checked the film, seeing the anti-halation layer was still largely there. I fixed again in TF4 for another 5 minutes with constant agitation. I rinsed again and photoflo'ed. The anti-halation layer was still not completely gone. I also saw fine black filaments at the edge of the film. My first thought was (the ever-present) cat hair. Nope. The filaments are very elastic. I developed 5 sheets and they all had these elastic filaments. I did not have this issue when I used an acid stop and Kodak Rapid Fixer.

I have 2 primary questions:
1) What on earth are the funny black elastic filaments?
2) How long does TXP320 need to sit in TF4 for the pink layer to finally go away?

On the bright side, my girls (7,4) will like the fact that my fixer is pink.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[reellis67]

Rob,

I can't help you with the filaments, but I can tell you that I have developed a good deal of TXP320 using a water stop and TF-4 fixer and never seen the problems you are describing. The anti-halation dye is always left in the pre-soak when use this film, which I admit I don't use anymore, so perhaps something changed...

- Randy

 

[John Simmons]

I have encountered similar problems and have stopped using TF4 on this film. I find that using half strength stop bath and regular acid fixer just seems to work better. I especially notice a much more even density in snow shots...for instance.

Regards,
John

 

[Aurelien]

What dilution did you use for TF4? TF4 is the same as Berfix in France, and I use it @ 1+3 during 4 minutes but I develop HP5+. Not TXP. Indeed, TXP is now coated in the same plant as Tmax films. Recommended time of fixing for Tmax films is 6 minutes with agitation every 15 sec dilution 1+3.

 

[rick durbin]

I've used TXP with pyrocat HD, a water stop and TF4 for some years with no problems. The water, 3-min. predevelopment treatment is always colored but not thereafter. The developed film has a pink cast. Rick Durbin

 

[rmartin]

Thanks, all.

Should I use a presoak with TXP320 to get rid of the anti-halation layer? I have not used it previously when using an acid fix.

With 35mm and 120, I have generally alternated between HP5+ and Tri-X, although I have been using mainly HP5+ recently. I may have to find a box of HP5+ for 4x5.

 

[Neal]

Dear Rob,

I realize it's not supposed to be necessary with TF-4, but two minutes in hypo clearing agent should clear out the remaining stain.

Neal Wydra

 

[Akki14]

funny black elastic filaments says emulsion to me but I don't really know why they'd be appearing especially if you're not finding pieces of film where the emulsion should be.

 

[PhotoJim]

Strange. I've processed TXP, TXT and boring old TX in TF-4 (usually with PMK as the developer) and never had that issue, ever.

 

[rmartin]

funny black elastic filaments says emulsion to me but I don't really know why they'd be appearing especially if you're not finding pieces of film where the emulsion should be.

The negatives were shots where I attempted to get the full moon over my backyard, still getting some of the lights in the houses behind me. All I got was the moon. Essentially I have some 4x5 sheets with a 5mm moon and the rest is blank. Could it be large amounts of Ag coming off the sheet?