TF-4 fixer.

[DREW WILEY]

With film I prefer a two-step stop procedure: a mild acetic acid stop followed by a brief plain water
rinse, prior to TF4. I discard everything each session.

 

[MattKing]

The citric acid stop baths (e.g. Ilfostop) have a much less objectionable odour. I seem to recall, however, that there are some procedures where PE has indicated that acetic acid based stop is preferred.

My practice (with Kodak films) is to dilute my Kodak stop in two stages. I make a half liter of "stock" solution at a 1 + 7 dilution. Then for use, I dilute the stock a further 1 + 7. That way I am handling the strong, odorous manufacturer's concentrate much less often. The "stock" solution still seems to be sufficiently strong to prevent the growth of anything in it.

I use Ilfostop for printing, because it smells better.

I discard stop after use except when I have more film or printing to do within the next day or so, in which case I rely on the indicator.

 

[Photo Engineer]

I am reluctant to use Citric Acid stop for some reason. I cannot remember the information from years ago. I do know that it is not recommended for color. I use 1% stop for most everything. The idea of a rinse after stop is excellent. In fact, with that method it ma be that running water is not needed.

PE

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

I fill the tank with running water and dump it twice before pouring in TF-4. Is that enough of a 'running water rinse'?

That's exactly what I do Chris and it lasts as per my discussion above.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

From the TF-4 bottle:

"capacity for film is 1400 to 1600 square inches per liter of working solution."

 

[Matus Kalisky]

From the TF-4 bottle:

"capacity for film is 1400 to 1600 square inches per liter of working solution."

Thanks. That would be around 20 - 25 120 films or 70 - 80 4x5" films - that sounds indeed like a lot. Is that realistic?

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Thanks. That would be around 20 - 25 120 films or 70 - 80 4x5" films - that sounds indeed like a lot. Is that realistic?

LOL! 10-12 does not sound like much to you but 20-25 sounds like a lot! Picky picky! Figure 15-18 since that'd be your sweet spot and be safe!

 

[MattKing]

1600 square inches is 20 120 rolls = 20 135-36 rolls = 20 8x10 sheets = 80 4x5 sheets

 

[Curt]

I've been using TF5 which I mix with distiller water.

 

[Photo Engineer]

I would erri on the side of caution.

PE

 

[Matus Kalisky]

Thank you. I would indeed stay on the safe side.

One repeated question - does anybody has idea/opinion/experience with the alkaline fixer from Moersch I have mentioned before (page 8) ?

 

[marcmarc]

I've been using TF-4 for years for my films. Great stuff! I do two one minute constant agitation rinses as a stop. After mixing up a gallon of working solution, I pour just enough for the format of film I'm working with: 250ml for 135 film and 400 ml for 120 in a 16oz steel tank. I fix three rolls and discard and use a fresh quantity from the gallon of working solution. I'm probably well off in not stretching the capacity but I feel better by not trying to economize by pushing my luck. Fixing is so important and since TF-4 is $10.99 a bottle at Freestyle it's worth knowing my negs should be stable for many years to come.