Tetenal C-41 - Green cast?

freecom2 · Apr 7, 2012

Hi all,
Using Tetenal C-41, and the last two rolls I developed together (in a Jobo CPE2) came out with a green cast to them. I've attached a picture - the strip of negatives above is from a previous different roll development with the kit, the strip of negatives on the bottom is from one of the rolls in question.

Temperature control was tight, over the 3:45 minutes of dev the temperature hardly deviated. However, this was roll 10, is this sort of result indicative of exhausted developer?

I've searched but didn't find anything conclusive.

Photo Engineer · Apr 7, 2012

If these 3 were processed in C41, then there is something seriously wrong with the one on top. The one on the bottom looks roughly correct for an E6 film that has been cross processed. Kind of foggy and high in contrast/density.

There are no edge markings on the film on top either, indicating that there was either none to start with or that there was no development. Are you sure that this is a photographic film, and not a leader? In any event, it does not appear to be a "real" film to me.

PE

Vonder · Apr 7, 2012

I've seen the same result from too-warm development. Is that possibly the culprit?

Photo Engineer · Apr 7, 2012

Unhardened film will wash off the support. So, yes this can be too warm development.

An example would be an E4 film in E6 or C41.

PE

freecom2 · Apr 7, 2012

Photo Engineer said:
If these 3 were processed in C41, then there is something seriously wrong with the one on top. The one on the bottom looks roughly correct for an E6 film that has been cross processed. Kind of foggy and high in contrast/density.

There are no edge markings on the film on top either, indicating that there was either none to start with or that there was no development. Are you sure that this is a photographic film, and not a leader? In any event, it does not appear to be a "real" film to me.

PE

Apologies for the very confusing image - the background is a Kenro translucent negative sheet - so in the picture, there are 4 strips of negatives in total, the top and bottom ones are in the negative sheet and the middle two are on top of the negative sheet. An oversight on my part

They are both exactly the same film, Kodak Gold 200, a big difference in result. My issue is that the 3rd strip of negatives does not look like the 2nd.

Wolfeye - I'm not entirely sure, I thought it was at 38 degrees from the beginning.

Photo Engineer · Apr 7, 2012

Frankly, I saw 5 strips, with one behind the good color neg strop and one at the far bottom.

I separated the wheat from the chaff and commented on top, middle front and just below middle.

Therefore, top looks like some kind of non-film or unhardened film, middle front is good color neg, middle back is like top, just below middle is apparently cross processed E6 film, and far bottom is like top. The bad ones look as if there is no emulsion left, no image left, or was never a photographic film at all.

PE

freecom2 · Apr 7, 2012

Photo Engineer said:
Frankly, I saw 5 strips, with one behind the good color neg strop and one at the far bottom.

I separated the wheat from the chaff and commented on top, middle front and just below middle.

All in all, a rather poorly executed photo then for which I apologise. It can make a difficult deduction even more so.

But thanks for the observations PE. So, what can go bad in C-41 home processing to make it look like a cross-process? I checked the temperature throughout the development stage and it stayed stable, which is why I'm not 100% sure about the too warm development.

brucemuir · Apr 7, 2012

Is the bottom strip completely dry?

Athiril · Apr 7, 2012

freecom2 said:
Hi all,
Using Tetenal C-41, and the last two rolls I developed together (in a Jobo CPE2) came out with a green cast to them. I've attached a picture - the strip of negatives above is from a previous different roll development with the kit, the strip of negatives on the bottom is from one of the rolls in question.

Temperature control was tight, over the 3:45 minutes of dev the temperature hardly deviated. However, this was roll 10, is this sort of result indicative of exhausted developer?

I've searched but didn't find anything conclusive.

View attachment 49083

You didn't accidentally put B&W through did you (the clear ones)?

Photo Engineer · Apr 7, 2012

Instead of E6 film cross processed, the one below the good C41 negative could have missed the blix, or bleach, and fix. Instead of fog, the high brown dmin is probably retained silver and silver halide. If that is true, then the tail end solutions are bad or exhausted.

And the blue-green strips do indeed resemble any number of films that cannot withstand a 100F process and that includes B&W films.

PE

freecom2 · Apr 7, 2012

brucemuir said:
Is the bottom strip completely dry?

Yes, I'm reasonably sure it is dry.

Athiril said:
You didn't accidentally put B&W through did you (the clear ones)?

See earlier comments addressed to PhotoEngineer about the picture - apologies once more.

Photo Engineer said:
Instead of E6 film cross processed, the one below the good C41 negative could have missed the blix, or bleach, and fix. Instead of fog, the high brown dmin is probably retained silver and silver halide. If that is true, then the tail end solutions are bad or exhausted.

I'm relatively new to home processing of C-41; is it like B&W where you can just re-fix (or in this case, re-blix) if necessary? As it was coming towards exhaustion the blix time for the processing was 10 minutes.

Photo Engineer · Apr 7, 2012

You re-bleach, wash and fix, then stabilize or you blix, wash, fix and then stabilize.

This should fix that problem. The top strip, there is no fix. It is gone.

Being able to see or read the edge markings of the two color films would help a lot.

PE

freecom2 · Apr 8, 2012

Photo Engineer said:
You re-bleach, wash and fix, then stabilize or you blix, wash, fix and then stabilize.

This should fix that problem. The top strip, there is no fix. It is gone.

Being able to see or read the edge markings of the two color films would help a lot.

PE

The Tetenal C-41 kit is a 3-bath kit, so I assume I'd just re-blix and then stabilize.

I will get a better picture up this afternoon (I'm in the UK), although unfortunately I don't have the lightbox handy at present.

Photo Engineer · Apr 8, 2012

You must blix, wash and stabilize.

PE

freecom2 · Apr 8, 2012

Photo Engineer said:
You must blix, wash and stabilize.

A bit of a brain block there - blix, wash and stab indeed. I will do that tomorrow, thanks for the help and pointers all.

Tetenal C-41 - Green cast?

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