As for the duration of the audible event.... I was concerned about that too. Of course, I had to know when the shutter actually opened and closed as you correctly point out. However, as I mentioned, I had a shutter that I had just that day received back from S.K. Grimes so I could compare the graph to their results to determine where the actual opening and closing of the shutter occured. To my suprise, the actual opening and closing was easily identified in the graphs for my LF shutters and my 35mm focal plane shutter. Take a look at the graph posted and you will see what I mean. The event (shutter opening) begins at the sharp spike and ends at the other sharp spike. I also compared the graph of another lens to the test sheet I got back from S.K. Grimes several months ago and they were all right on the button except the 1 second speed which is now about 1/3rd stop off. I simply made a note of that and now compensate when using that speed now.
The 35mm focal plane shutter that I tested had also just been in for a CLA. However, International Camera did not give me a data sheet when they returned the camera but the graphs were perfectly clear with sharp spikes aligning virtually perfectly with the marked shutter speeds.
Of course, different shutters function differently and the graph may be different for different types so a little careful examination is all that is needed when you try this with a different shutter. For example, a self-cocking No. 5 Ilex Universal Syncro shutter that I tested does record sounds both before and after the shutter actually fires but the points where the shutter snaps open and closed are perfectly sharp spikes in the graph and they also match the S.K. Grimes tests that were made by them the last time the lens received a CLA. The bottom line is that once you know how to identify the actual opening and closing on the graph, you are all set. All of my Copal shutter graphs look virtually the same and it is extremely easy to see when the shutter actually opens and closes. Residual noises are easily identifiable. In every lens and shutter that I tested, the event was perfectly clear. But, ideally, you should first try this with a lens that you have recent test data for.
Mark, I am familiar with the method you desribe and, in fact, I did it years ago. Somewhere I even have my results filed. However, I found it more of a curiosity since it involved some effort and the counting of lines on film. That method is often used in college photography courses as a learning project. With the method I describe here, you don't have to expose film at all and you have results in a matter of seconds. Of course, you could just buy a shutter tester but my intent in posting this is to give those who may be interested a quick method of testing their slower shutter speeds without needing any equipment at all and without any expense. I am getting virtually perfect results and I'm very glad that I stumbled upon it. I did post this idea in another forum and someone else had plans for using this method with a simple light sensing device that cost less than $3 to build. (If anyone is interested in that, email me. I think I have the plans saved in a file.) The device apparently sends a signal to the sound program when a light passes through the shutter when it is open. I haven't tried it yet myself but I may. By combining the methods, it may be possible to very accurately measure even the highest shutter speeds. The device was made up of just a box to put it in, a switch, a resistor, and a light sensing diode, if I remember correctly.
If you are concerned about identifying the event (shutter opening and closing) I suggest simply taking a minute and giving this a try and see how it works for you. It's so easy!