I use two fixer baths which helps reduce the risk of incomplete fixing.
Also, a small bottle of Edwal's Hypo-Check lasts forever, I find it the easiest way to test my fixer.
It's unfortunately an unreliable test,because the fixer is done well before the test shows a cloudy substance at around 2g of silver/liter but it's better than nothing.
There is also this:
i had a conversation with the good folks at sprint about this years ago, mainly because the hypo check is readily available
and seems like it would be a reliable test. i was told a few things ... first, it is unreliable with some fixers.
some have a larger capacity than edwal's fixer and , some don't. AND most people don't use the hypo test drops correctly.
they tilt the tray or beaker and put a few drops in and see if it gets cloudy ( and that's it )
... the instructions on the bottle used to suggest to do it differently and this yields different results than a few drops in a tray &c
it doesn't say it on the enlarged photograph above this post, but it USED TO SAY remove an ounce of the fixer in question,
you put a 2drops of hypo check in, it may cloud up, but you mix
the 1oz and see if it clears. if it clears the fixer might still have some life in it, if it stays cloudy it toss it.
maybe the posted image is a newer bottle with different instructions of "edwal's hypo check" and the instruciton on the bottle are different ..
aside from the test strips ralph mentions, the good folks that make the silver magnet also have test strips to show how much silver is in the fixer ( and i sell them ). easy to use ( like litmus paper ) .
that said, during the phone conversation i alluded to earlier, the folks at sprint suggested to use the clip test with their fixer.
( mattking's article on the clip test here: (there was a url link here which no longer exists) )
it is an age old test that they believe is a good indicator of whether fixer is exhausted or still has life in it.
whatever test you use, good luck !
john
I bought this Hypocheck on the back of this very thread. I don't have an 'is my fixer exhausted?' problem as I am a fan of fresh chemistry (although i do re-use fixer). I though I would try this stuff since I saw it in my local shoppe.
I must admit that some people mystify me. They will readily spend money for film, paper, and developer but then suddenly become Scrooge when it comes to filxer and stop bath. Perhaps it is the unglamorous roles of these two chemicals that makes them appear to be not quite as important aspects of the process. This is really a foolish attitude. An improperly fixed film or print will soon become damaged by various argento-thiosulfate complexes remaining from overworked fixer. In addition these complexes are much harder to remove with washing. You will see this attitude repeatedly on APUG. People will appear to be quite smug about "beating the system" in extending the life of stop baths and fixers past their useful capacity.
There exist test solutions for determining when a fixer has reached its useful capacity. However they must be used carefully and the results can be hard to interpret. But there is a very simple and effective way to determine the useful life and that is to keep track of the number of in2 of film or paper passed through a bath. Then simply discard it when the manufactures recommended capacity is reaching. Simple, effective and no interpreting "iiffy" test results.
I must admit that some people mystify me. They will readily spend money for film, paper, and developer but then suddenly become Scrooge when it comes to filxer and stop bath.
+1
Chemicals are the cheapest part, fixer cost nothing comparing to film, FB paper, lenses, cameras... Better discard fixer that is still maybe usable than go on the fixer limit and be sorry later.
Unfortunately I don't have place for one extra tray for 2 bath fixing, but if I do - I would definitely use it.
the suggestion of "simply toss the old fixer and use new fixer, don't be so cheap", disregards one fact of life for some of us who live in a rural environment. Sure if you are in the city toss it down the drain the city sewer will take care of it (still not a good idea) doesn't apply if you are on well and septic where disposal is more problematic and takes more effort, you do want to get "maximum life" out of the fixer for non-economic reasons .
Ammonium Thiosulfate is not harmful to garden plants if diluted and neither is the Silver complex.
Color Blix is similar to the fertilizers used on Rhododendra and Azaleas.
If dilute enough it can be poured outside.
PE
the suggestion of "simply toss the old fixer and use new fixer, don't be so cheap", disregards one fact of life for some of us who live in a rural environment. Sure if you are in the city toss it down the drain the city sewer will take care of it (still not a good idea) doesn't apply if you are on well and septic where disposal is more problematic and takes more effort, you do want to get "maximum life" out of the fixer for non-economic reasons….
Ammonium Thiosulfate is not harmful to garden plants if diluted and neither is the Silver complex.
Color Blix is similar to the fertilizers used on Rhododendra and Azaleas.
If dilute enough it can be poured outside.
PE
It would be interesting to know how much damage other chemicals are doing to the systems: like detergent, cleaning chemicals ... of course everybody use it - but somehow I am guessing that all those chemicals are more damaging that some small amount of Rodinal and fixer.
What is legal and what not is another thing.
it came from the ground
so they are pouring it back ... in the ground ...
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