Hello,
I've done a bunch of 1st time things in the past couple of days. Used my 8x10 Korona for the 1st real time, Used this ( (there was a url link here which no longer exists) ) lens I recently purchased, shot some paper negs and direct contact printed a positive from said negs. A lot of stuff to take a stab at all at once, but here are the results as they are when I decided I'd gone far enough.
The real purpose here was to test this lens. If you didn't follow the link, basically it was a question as to whether or not contrast could be brought back to this lens that was scratched to pieces on the front element, using multi contrast paper.
So I was looking for a scene that held lots of contrast and going in blind as I had not done any of this before. I found it in the darkroom right above the sink. Worked well for me as I was able to shoot and develop instantly, cut on a light and see how I went wrong. About 20 times before settling on a negative and another good 20 making a print from that negative. It may not be the most exciting subject, but served a purpose and I never really went far enough to get a good negative.
The Camera
8x10 Korona w/ Spencer "Levy" 18" Process Lens. f8
25" of bellows extension which may have something to do with having difficulty rating the paper for ISO.
The Paper
Ilford multicontrast warmtone RC rated at 3 ISO
The Shot
F11.5 at 2 mins 15 secs
developed in Agfa Multicontrast paper developer
I was in the darkroom, so I used the single light source pointed at scene as the Hat Trick (on/off) to avoid camera shake as it is on an equally old wooden tripod.
The Contact
Same paper as negative
exposed under straight light from enlarger
That enlarger is Omega D5 fitted with Ilford multi contrast light head and system
The bulb is out in my enlarger with the color head and "white light" feature, which I think I will use from now on. The Ilford head gives off a greenish colored light rather than straight white light.
Dodged, burned many times, many tries and this is what I have to show.
I need to read through these threads and see if I was even using the right type of paper, paper ISO rating, exposure and so on.
I would say I got plenty of contrast from the lens and surprisingly sharp for being so scratched up.
Thanks for looking and opinions.
Jody
I've done a bunch of 1st time things in the past couple of days. Used my 8x10 Korona for the 1st real time, Used this ( (there was a url link here which no longer exists) ) lens I recently purchased, shot some paper negs and direct contact printed a positive from said negs. A lot of stuff to take a stab at all at once, but here are the results as they are when I decided I'd gone far enough.
The real purpose here was to test this lens. If you didn't follow the link, basically it was a question as to whether or not contrast could be brought back to this lens that was scratched to pieces on the front element, using multi contrast paper.
So I was looking for a scene that held lots of contrast and going in blind as I had not done any of this before. I found it in the darkroom right above the sink. Worked well for me as I was able to shoot and develop instantly, cut on a light and see how I went wrong. About 20 times before settling on a negative and another good 20 making a print from that negative. It may not be the most exciting subject, but served a purpose and I never really went far enough to get a good negative.
The Camera
8x10 Korona w/ Spencer "Levy" 18" Process Lens. f8
25" of bellows extension which may have something to do with having difficulty rating the paper for ISO.
The Paper
Ilford multicontrast warmtone RC rated at 3 ISO
The Shot
F11.5 at 2 mins 15 secs
developed in Agfa Multicontrast paper developer
I was in the darkroom, so I used the single light source pointed at scene as the Hat Trick (on/off) to avoid camera shake as it is on an equally old wooden tripod.
The Contact
Same paper as negative
exposed under straight light from enlarger
That enlarger is Omega D5 fitted with Ilford multi contrast light head and system
The bulb is out in my enlarger with the color head and "white light" feature, which I think I will use from now on. The Ilford head gives off a greenish colored light rather than straight white light.
Dodged, burned many times, many tries and this is what I have to show.
I need to read through these threads and see if I was even using the right type of paper, paper ISO rating, exposure and so on.
I would say I got plenty of contrast from the lens and surprisingly sharp for being so scratched up.
Thanks for looking and opinions.
Jody
