Definitive? I don't know, but I have done exactly as you wish to do and it worked out well. I used the Ilford chart and it proved to be a good starting point. I recall that I ended up reducing the time slightly but that had more to do with the subject contrast. I do know that one of the characteristics of the developing agent in Rodinal is that it is not particularly affected by changes in temperature, which is one reason it was so popular with amateur photogs 100 years ago, very forgiving of crude or basic darkroom conditions.
Pan F and Rodinal, beautiful combo as I'm sure you know.
The temperature variation is a function of film, desired contrast index and developer. Rodinal certainly can be used over a wide range of temperatures, but I don't have the charts for Pan F. Do you know the time for a particular temperature? You could do a test roll, cut it into strips of a few frames length, start with the regular Ilford chart and if it works, you have some test shots left over to use for other tests.
Definitive? I don't know, but I have done exactly as you wish to do and it worked out well. I used the Ilford chart and it proved to be a good starting point. I recall that I ended up reducing the time slightly but that had more to do with the subject contrast. I do know that one of the characteristics of the developing agent in Rodinal is that it is not particularly affected by changes in temperature, which is one reason it was so popular with amateur photogs 100 years ago, very forgiving of crude or basic darkroom conditions.
Pan F and Rodinal, beautiful combo as I'm sure you know.
The temperature variation is a function of film, desired contrast index and developer. Rodinal certainly can be used over a wide range of temperatures, but I don't have the charts for Pan F. Do you know the time for a particular temperature? You could do a test roll, cut it into strips of a few frames length, start with the regular Ilford chart and if it works, you have some test shots left over to use for other tests.
Problem is I have a strange relation with film, I could not stand to lose a single frame, I don't know, it would be like losing a a tiny piece of my life.
This can be better understood by also considering my obstinacy to shoot film instead of getting myself a nice and fat digital camera and do like everybody else...
Well, just consider your test roll as a sacrificial lamb, given up for the good of the many. You should shoot all the same scene, bracketting exposure + and - 1/2 stop. Use a long enough piece so that you are sure to get 4 frames and you will be sure to have all 3 test conditions on each strip. Keep thinking: one test of 1/8 of a roll might save me a whole roll of important pictures.
If you can't bear to "loose" a roll of film to testing, try the "proper contact sheet" method to dial-in your personal exposure speed and development times (assuming you are printing with an enlarger). Rather than recap as it has often been mentioned before, the most recent mention is at: herethere was a url link here which no longer exists).
It varies according to dilution, film, agitation, and target contrast.
Period.
Use the Ilford chart, which is generic, and it will get you close.
Since you are starting from scratch, that is good enough. If you need more time, fine, note it and you will come closer each time.
Don't be afraid, this is what every experienced photographer needs to do with a new film/developer combination. It IS easier when you aren't working EVERYTHING out all at once.
Patrick and I agree that temperature vs time is a function of film and developer, thus unless you have done it, you don't have an answer. Many things will work, but what works best is probelmatical. Best of luck.