Tell me about Kodalith Ortho 4x5

kb244 · Sep 27, 2006

I got a few sheets of Kodak Kodalith (litho?) Orthochromatic film in 4x5 size, and a crown graflex to shoot them in. I understand that this film much like the Kodak UltraTec I shoot on 35mm is intended for graphics arts purposes and that in theory would give me about the same very high contrast that UltraTec would give me if developed normally in HC-110 ( as opposed to using it's specified UltraTec Developer).

Is there more I need to know about the film, or even it's relative EI/ISO (which seems from all I can find to be ISO 25, but says thats under tungsten light, does daylight have a different ASA)

I know my UltraTec film is about ISO 6 in terms of what I can get out of it, kinda hoping the litho film is around 25 to 50, slow but not too slow (Though scenics could be cool slow).

Lowell Huff · Sep 27, 2006

No, the only likenesses between Kodalith and Ultra Teck films are that they are both made by kodak and are used in the graphics industry. Ultra Tech has a developer incorporated emulsion and requires a very powerful developer to process it. Kodalith is a line film that will develop in A & B Developer as well as Continuous tone developer.

Mike Wilde · Sep 27, 2006

My guess on Kodalith Ortho - from the darkroom

I usually use this under my enlarger, rather than in the camera, and find it equates to an ASA of about 3 to 9. It should be bracketed, because the sharp cut off of what is black, what is white after developing in lith developer is somewhat subjective.

When you develop, it can be by inspection using RED safelight, and I am not sure how that it relates to using regular amber that you use of varable contrast print paper.

If you are processing it in a more conventional developer ( I have not tried this yet) then I would still bracket widely on initial shots to set a film speed.

kb244 · Sep 27, 2006

Mike Wilde said:
I usually use this under my enlarger, rather than in the camera, and find it equates to an ASA of about 3 to 9. It should be bracketed, because the sharp cut off of what is black, what is white after developing in lith developer is somewhat subjective.

When you develop, it can be by inspection using RED safelight, and I am not sure how that it relates to using regular amber that you use of varable contrast print paper.

If you are processing it in a more conventional developer ( I have not tried this yet) then I would still bracket widely on initial shots to set a film speed.

I would more than likely bracket. I have a standard red dome at which I keep on a shelf up on the wall, with direct light blocked, so its just bouncing off the ceiling, I've developed kodak polycontrast III under it, so its not enough to hurt the film, though I know red safelights arnt safe at the usual 4-6 ft distance as opposed to the OA filter the kodak paper calls for. So for the older stuff, and ortho the safelight is fine.

But ya I'll bracket some shots with HC-110 , and maybe Dektol and let you know how it goes. If I dont mind preserving the film I could always take a shot and cut the sheet in half to try one in HC-110 and the other in Dektol, to cut down on the number of sheets to shoot for experimentation.

Though good to know that it could litterally go from white to black.

Ian Grant · Sep 27, 2006

kb244 said:
I got a few sheets of Kodak Kodalith (litho?) Orthochromatic film in 4x5 size, and a crown graflex to shoot them in.

Perhaps not the way to start using 5x4 / LF

Lith film's an extreme, and processing it for continuous tone a speciality

Ian

raucousimages · Sep 27, 2006

I shoot at ISO 3 to 3+2 stops (ISO .75?) and develop in Dektol 1:2 or 1:3 for full tone. fun film to work with but not a substitute for panchromatic film.

kb244 · Sep 27, 2006

Ian Grant said:
Perhaps not the way to start using 5x4 / LF

Lith film's an extreme, and processing it for continuous tone a speciality

Ian

though probally not much different than what I've been doing for ultraTec. I also happen to be the guy at the current moment (sometimes I'd prefer not to be) that my employers hand off any old roll of film they find in one of the camera thats been sitting on the shelf for 50 years lol, assuming that I can get something out of it.

Also as most of the film stock I get ahold of does not typically cost me anything and are usually in abundance trying the litho doesnt hurt me a bit.

kb244 · Sep 27, 2006

raucousimages said:
I shoot at ISO 3 to 3+2 stops (ISO .75?) and develop in Dektol 1:2 or 1:3 for full tone. fun film to work with but not a substitute for panchromatic film.

Don't intend to use it as a substitute, I have Plus-X and HP5+ for normal shooting, I'd be interested to use it as a special purpose film, I know I'm gona get very high contrast regardless much like with UltraTec, the trick of course is trying to control where and how much contrast there is. I will of course have to take the scene into great consideration to maximize my chances of a good shot in terms of the contrast present in the scene.

ricksplace · Sep 27, 2006

I have shot quite a bit of kodalith 4X5 in my speed graphic. I shoot it at iso 6 and soup it in rodinal 1:150 under a red safelight. I like the results. Razor sharp and grainless.

Jim Noel · Sep 27, 2006

I use lith film in a variety of ways.
1. making interpositives and new larger or changed contrast negatives in the darkroom
2, In camera, EI 5 in daylight - develop in D-23 for 90 seconds to produce negatives with appropriate scale for salt and VD Brown.
3. In camera, EI 1 under incandescent light for still lifes which I intend to print usingthe processes previously mentioned.
I use D-23 because itis a softer working developer than any paper developer,
and most film developers. It is also dirt cheap to make, lasts almost indefinitely and is useable in several ways including water bath development, divided to increase shadow density and straight.

fatboy22 · Sep 27, 2006

kb244 said:
I would more than likely bracket. I have a standard red dome at which I keep on a shelf up on the wall, with direct light blocked, so its just bouncing off the ceiling, I've developed kodak polycontrast III under it, so its not enough to hurt the film, though I know red safelights arnt safe at the usual 4-6 ft distance as opposed to the OA filter the kodak paper calls for. So for the older stuff, and ortho the safelight is fine.

Red safe lights are more safe to use with Polycontrast III B&W paper than Kodak OA filters. An OA filter (amber) will fog paper if it is to close to it. Only use a Red filter with Kodalith Ortho film. I use to use it in the lab for high contrast copy work. Had about an ISO of 6 under tungsten copy lights. Shot it with a speed graphic. Developed by inspection in Dektol 1:4

epatsellis · Sep 27, 2006

Karl,

Yes you can do continuous tone images with a lith film, if you look at the photo gallery on my website, in the folder labeled filmtest, there is a 4x5 and 8x10 negs shot with lith film, processed in D76.

erie

kb244 · Sep 27, 2006

Seems kodalith *might* be capable of some tones lol. Under flash its probally ISO 50 oddly enough. This is an exposure based on ISO 25, with flash set to fire a auto-burst based on ISO 25 @ 6.5ft @ f/8. Set the graflex to 1/200 @ f/8.

Developed in HC-110 Dil.D (1:39) @ 68F for 3:30 min. Tiny bit underexposed, maybe try 4:30-5 next time.

... Lets face it, I'm bored and I got plenty of sheets. Pardon the dust, I didnt exactly properly dry the sheet if you catch my drift, and I don't have a scanner capable of 4x5, just 120, so its a center scan straight on the glass (hence the newton ring)

http://www.karlblessing.com/shares/litho_clock_crop.jpg <--- crop (50% reduction of the original 2400 DPI scan)

kb244 · Sep 27, 2006

You know I'm almost wondering if I can do a exposure test tomorrow under metered sunlight and such. Then use the dark slide, aim the first portion to be multiply exposed (ie: pull dark slide 25% shoot, open 1 stop, pull 50% shoot, open 1 more stop, pull 75% shoot, pull 100% open 1 stop more , shoot)

so that the first exposed area is exposed 3 stops or so than the last portion, on a tripod, etc.

and yea i know I might get overlaped from movement and what not, just wana check exposure based on dilution and time to get the desired balance.

Btw I migtha gotten the IE backwards (ie: what i need to goto) , its past my bedtime lol.

kb244 · Sep 28, 2006

45 seconds f/8 (metered ISO 12) + HC-110 Dil.D (1:39) 3:30 @ 68F

1/60th @ f/11 (metered ISO 6 in sunlight) + Dektol 1:2 4min @ 70F

Tell me about Kodalith Ortho 4x5

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