• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Techpan in Pyrocat

Bookcase detail

A
Bookcase detail

  • 0
  • 0
  • 13
Cone and Hoop

A
Cone and Hoop

  • 2
  • 1
  • 39

Forum statistics

Threads
202,762
Messages
2,845,248
Members
101,512
Latest member
FastFred
Recent bookmarks
0

fhovie

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Mar 20, 2003
Messages
1,250
Location
Powell Wyoming
Format
Large Format
Somewhere around here I got the crazy idea I could use Pyrocat to develop Techpan using the semistand method. I shot a roll, half at asa 50 and half at 100. I used the Pyro 1:1:150 at 70F for 20 minutes with 4 agitations. I think it is probably N+2 or there abouts but the curve is very odd. - I am evaluating the negs off a scanner - so who knows how different it will be when I check them in the darkroom with graded and vc paper. It looks like zone 1 and 2 often did't show up at all. Low contrast shots landed right where they should (density wise) and look great. Zone 8 and up are very dense yet they did scan and look printable - barely.

I like the idea of using my main brew for all my films. Rateing Techpan at 100 is quite a stretch but worked for the most part. Is there a better way to get my toe and shoulder back? I think if I go longer it will give me a higher film speed but be even contrastier? If I go shorter I should get my highlights under control but need to rate it at ASA 25? Is there anyone who has a preferred method for this?? Even less agitation?

Thanks
 
fhovie said:
Somewhere around here I got the crazy idea I could use Pyrocat to develop Techpan using the semistand method. I shot a roll, half at asa 50 and half at 100. I used the Pyro 1:1:150 at 70F for 20 minutes with 4 agitations. I think it is probably N+2 or there abouts but the curve is very odd. - I am evaluating the negs off a scanner - so who knows how different it will be when I check them in the darkroom with graded and vc paper. It looks like zone 1 and 2 often did't show up at all. Low contrast shots landed right where they should (density wise) and look great. Zone 8 and up are very dense yet they did scan and look printable - barely.

I like the idea of using my main brew for all my films. Rateing Techpan at 100 is quite a stretch but worked for the most part. Is there a better way to get my toe and shoulder back? I think if I go longer it will give me a higher film speed but be even contrastier? If I go shorter I should get my highlights under control but need to rate it at ASA 25? Is there anyone who has a preferred method for this?? Even less agitation

Thanks

Frank,

I have no experience with this particular film/developer combination. What I might be inclined to try is to preflash the film at the 100 ISO rating that you used. My preflash exposure would be non-image bearing light placed at Zone IV and then I would base my image bearing light exposure on my highlight values. Placing them at Zone VIII.

My reasoning is that this will provide you support of your shadow exposure without materially affecting the highlight placement. The compensating effect of minimal agitation in Pyrocat would then keep the development times in a manageable perspective.

If you will check the two images that I have posted in the technical gallery, you can see the benefit of using this technique.
 
jdef said:
Ansel Adams described the technique that Donald suggests in "The Negative", which is the same principle as pre-flashing paper. He also suggested tha the color of the pre-exposure could be used for contrast control, and suggested a yellow card, out of focus for the pre-exposure.

The technique that I have developed departs from that AA described. Although Adam's description will work to a certain degree.
 
I know that with TD3 I always got good results - I just printed the negs mentioned above and they are at least N+2 perhaps a little more - I will try a littl more with Pyrocat - I would really like to be able to develop Techpan in it. I wonder what the formula is for TD3
 
TD 103

fhovie said:
I know that with TD3 I always got good results - I just printed the negs mentioned above and they are at least N+2 perhaps a little more - I will try a littl more with Pyrocat - I would really like to be able to develop Techpan in it. I wonder what the formula is for TD3
Check out the TD 103 formula in The Film Dev Cookbook (Anchell + Troop).I suspect this is pretty much identical.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom