Tamron 28-80 f3.5-5.6 Canon AF?

[j-dogg]

The old school one from back in the 35mm days. Anyone have one of these? I need a basic zoom for my EOS 650 and Elan 7e all I have is a Nifty Fifty. There's one in a pawn shop I can get relatively cheap (as well as a Vivtar Series 1 70-210 f3.5 for Nikon, it's tempting) figured I would get some word on one before I dropped some cash on it.

 

[Russ - SVP]

Vivitar S-1 70-210 trio & superb Kiron 70-210 with zoom-lock
Left to right:
Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron model), f/3.5
Vivitar Series 1 (Tokina model), f/3.5
Vivitar Series 1 (Komine model), f/2.8-4
Kiron 70-210. f/4 with Zoom-lock

Regarding Viv S-1 glass. There are numerous (8) Series 1, 70-210 lenses. However, for the sake of discussion, we will deal with the first three. The following editions are nothing to seriously consider, so we will concentrate on the first three editions, which are the good one's. The 4th & 5th editions are also 2.8-4 variable aperture model's, but lacking in construction quality (Cosina built). Due to the fact that the third one is a variable aperture lens, (2.8-4) it will be somewhat sharper than a fixed aperture lenses. It is much easier to design and build a quality variable aperture lens.

The first edition was designed by Vivitar (Ellis Betensky of NASA Optics fame), had a hand in it, and it was built by Kiron. (67mm filter) It is a professional caliber lens, with a 1:2 macro feature built into it. It was the first zoom, designed with the aid of computers, that truly rivaled the OEM lenses of the time. That was in "76."

The second edition (my personal favorite) was built by Tokina, per, Vivitars specs. It too, is a fixed 3.5 aperture, but smaller, lighter and sharper. (62mm filter size). I really like it because of the fixed 3.5 aperture which is nice for focusing in dim light and long range flash work. However, not a true macro, 1:4 life size.

The third edition was made by Komine, and like the first two, is very well built. It is a 2.8-4 variable aperture lens, and the sharpest of the bunch. It has 1:2.5 life size macro from 100-210mm's, with a working distance of about two feet. Which can be quite useful. Can you see a discernible difference in slides taken with either one of them? No! Don't get caught up in bench tests. Any of the first three editions will give you professional-publishable images. I really like this lens, and over time, has become my favorite of the line.

Personally, I recommend the second or third edition of the line. I have and use all three of the first editions, and can highly recommend any one of them. Superb optics and construction.

Also, the Kiron 70-210 f/4, is a splendid performer.

QLP (Kiron Kid & MrVivSeries1)

 

[j-dogg]

This one is a non-AI Nikon lens, solid 3.5 f-stop through teh whole rang3e.

escuse my spelling ive had a few drinks

 

[Russ - SVP]

J-Dogg

The first and second editions are fixed f/3.5 lenses. Both remain at f/3.5 throughout the entire zoom range.

 

[ath]

I have one. It was my first lens for Canon AF, bought as a kit with an EOS50. I made many good pictures with it.
Technically you get what you pay for. Other (much more expensive) lenses are better, but according to some tests the Tamron is better than the Canon Kit lenses available back then.
I have better lenses now (faster, sharper) and the Tamron gets no use today. Twice a flexible internal connection broke and I repaired it. Build quality is cheap reflecting the sales price.
For user ratings regarding lenses see http://photozone.de/active/survey/q...' or brand='Tokina AF' or brand='Vivitar AF'"
I found this list always helpful.

 

[j-dogg]

im gonna get the series 1 tomorrwo i think its a 67mm filter it eqwas huge thats all i remember

 

[dnjl]

My general experience with Tamron is that you get more than what you pay for. I have a tacky, dirt cheap 70-300, and while it's no L glass, it performs quite well.

 

[moki]

I have the Tamron 28-80 as my main lens for the Elan 7e and it works great. At f/8 it's pretty nice, even at the extreme ends. 80mm/5,6 is ok, nothing less and nothing more, but at 28mm/3,5 it's got very little distortion and decent sharpness. 50mm/4,5 is very dark for that focal length, but the picture quality is almost on par with a cheap prime lens. The autofocus is pretty fast and about as precise as most modern Canon lenses, but somewhat loud.
When I don't need autofocus, I prefer my manual m42-primes with an adapter, simply because nothing can substitute a wide maximum aperture. But when I don't want to carry 3 or 4 different lenses, this zoom is a good choice - a very good compromise between weight, variability and price.

Generally, I'd say, Tamron will get you 85% or more of the performance of equivalent Canon lenses for about half the price. If you want the very best, buy some Canon L glass, but be prepared to pay through your nose for it.

 

[j-dogg]

My general experience with Tamron is that you get more than what you pay for. I have a tacky, dirt cheap 70-300, and while it's no L glass, it performs quite well.

I have the Promaster knockoff of that lens on my Minolta, it is a great lens easily outperformed my Canon 75-300 of the time.

 

[Russ - SVP]

im gonna get the series 1 tomorrwo i think its a 67mm filter it eqwas huge thats all i remember

J-Dogg


The lens that you are looking at is very good. However, the third edition (Komine made) Is smaller and sharper. But, the original version (Kiron made) is very good, and will deliver superb results. The attached snap was made with version #1 (Kiron-67mm filter) in macro mode. They are both, professional caliber optics.

 

[j-dogg]

I got it Thing is a tank that's for sure. Can't find any plastic anywhere.

 

[Russ - SVP]

I got it Thing is a tank that's for sure. Can't find any plastic anywhere.

Dogg

Do you know how to engage its macro mode function?

 

[j-dogg]

Not really but I bet it has something to do with this plastic button on the side.

EDIT: I think I figured it out but give me the details

 

[Russ - SVP]

J-Dogg

With the lens pointed away from you or on the camera, zoom it back into the 210mm focal length. Now depress the little white button on the macro collar and turn clockwise. The collar will rotate about 1/4 a turn. Now you are in macro mode. Opposite procedure to disengage it.

Kiron Kid

 

[j-dogg]

Yep thats what I did. thanks