Taking the E6 plunge

[EASmithV]

Well, I've finally done it.

My local lab has driven me to insanity, so I just bought the 1 Pint Arista E6 kit and 3 new bottles.

I plan to be getto-temp-stabilizing with a sink, two thermometers, and a tub of water.

Any advice for a first time E6 developer? I've done C41 but the stab always left drying marks on the film. How do I avoid this when doing E6? Am I allowed to do a final water wash? And when can I do water washes?

 

[wiltw]

Final step was stabilizer, currently is surfactant and anti-fungal bath, intended to result in cleaner film with fewer water marks.

 

[insertwittynamehere]

Last time I personally did E-6 was in the mid 90's. In the run of a year we would process about 150 feet of hand spooled Ektachrome in pretty much exactly the same set up you're planning. About the only thing I can think of recommending is to pre-heat the tank/film in the water bath, but not by a presoak. I seem to recall getting better and more consistent slides when there wasn't such a drastic cool down of the first developer when pouring it into a room temperature tank. Then again, it may be that nearly twenty years of darkroom fumes have scrambled my memory.

I've scanned some of my OLD slides that were done in the "ghetto" fashion if you're interested. A few pro lab developed shots and kodachromes as well.

http://stewie.smugmug.com/DarkroomWork/35mm/Slide-Scans/22063997_C7VBxb

I'd say have at 'er. I've been thinking of doing the same thing for a while now.

 

[EASmithV]

Am I allowed to do washes in between the dex->blix and between the blix -> stab? And then i go directly from stab -> dry

Also, does the Stab need to be at temperature with the other chems? I've been told it's not necessary before, but to avoid reticulation...

 

[EASmithV]

About the only thing I can think of recommending is to pre-heat the tank/film in the water bath, .

Thanks, I was wondering if i should do such a thing, as I'm using Paterson plastic tanks, and it seems that as the plastic is an insulator, pre-heating is a good idea.

No pre-wash for E6 films? I've seen people do a C-41 pre-wash before...

 

[EASmithV]

Will the E6 chems keep longer if refrigerated?

 

[pukalo]

First, Congratulations!!! You have made a very good decision. Home E6 is easy, fun, and gives fantastic results!

But a couple of things:
-Read the Manual, and follow the directions. Your questions make me wonder, as the steps are as follows with Arista: Prewash, First Developer, Wash, Color Developer,Wash, Blix, Wash. The more you wash between steps, the better.
-The Arista kit does Not include a Stabilizer or Final Rinse, which is a flaw with the kit, as it is needed for long term slide stability. You should at the very least order Kodak E6 Final Rinse (less than $10), or to do it right, the Tetenal Stabilizer from Maco Direct. This is the real deal with Formaldehyde, which incidentally is now listed as a carcinogen, which is why it isnt in the Arista Kit.
-Buy a cheap styrofoam cooler , and poke a few overflow drain holes near the top. Use this for temperature control. Put the chemical botles (I use empty water bottles which work great, but Dont use empty fruit juice or pop bottles, I ruined half a gallon of the Arista kit, as the residual acidity ruined the First Dev) in and fill with hot water, then let it slowly stabilize and cool to the correct temp, then start processing. As needed, top up with tap water of the proper temp.
-The Arista kit uses 105F, NOT 100F like Kodak, Fuji, and Tetenal do.

 

[EASmithV]

I'm only making 1L of each solution.

Can I buy this and just mix up a small quantity, and if so, how long will it last when opened:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/110230-REG/Kodak_8140279_E_6_Final_Rinse_.html


Yes, I got a dish tub and I plan on cutting overflow valves as you said.

 

[Rudeofus]

I believe that Kodak adds the formalin to the pre bleach which means Kodak final rinse may not contain the formalin required to make the color dyes stable. Arista kit doesn't have a pre bleach step, so you definitely need formalin in the final rinse. Since you only see these effects after a long time, you should contact B&H about the Kodak final rinse before you plunk down money.

 

[EASmithV]

But the Tetenal stab is safe for this purposes?

 

[Rudeofus]

But the Tetenal stab is safe for this purposes?

Like the Arista Kit, the Tetenal kit is a 3 bath kit which uses no pre bleach bath. This means that most likely the Tetenal stab bath contains the requires formalin, which means it should work for your purpose. I have never used the Arista kit but have read elsewhere that the Tetenal stab would work for it.

 

[EASmithV]

Awesome. Where do I find the Tetenal stab without buying the entire kit?

 

[Diapositivo]

Any advice for a first time E6 developer? I've done C41 but the stab always left drying marks on the film. How do I avoid this when doing E6? Am I allowed to do a final water wash? And when can I do water washes?

I suggest you take the time to write down all the process you are going to follow, step by step, each step of chemical preparation, each step of developing, with timing, temperatures, how are you going to dry it etc. This kind of analysis will make you find faults in your procedure before you spoil a roll. My motto is "never think during development". I do all the thinking before. During development I am just a robot!

You could also post your "procedure" here and somebody will spot problems or suggest improvements.

Until we don't know what you are going to do, we cannot know where you could make a mistake.

An advice can I give you from now: make three or four processes with sacrifiable rolls (pictures taken in your neighbourhood during a walk). Wait to have processed a few times before committing important rolls to your DIY laboratory.

Also, I suggest to make one or two processes without film and without chemicals, only water. That will clarify things about how you count time, where you put the watch, how long does it take to empty the tank, and much more.

Fabrizio