T64 in a Rodinal bath... Another "what if"

[Digidurst]

Hi everyone!

I've got some expired Fuji T64 film that I intend to cross process in b&w film chemistry. I'm guessing that the negs are going to be very contrasty. But I have this bottle of Rodinal around and I started wondering... What would happen if I developed the film in it? What do ya'll think? And any suggestions for development timing?

Thanks!

 

[Markok765]

you would get a B&W neg.
in rodinal i develop as tri-x plus 25% dev time

 

[kb244]

I've heard of doing older negs in B&W such as C-22 or something. I've also heard of doing something like C-41 (such as chromagenic black and white ) in HC-110 for upto 14 minutes.

I doubt there would actually be any useful combination available to actually get something out of 64T. The key I think is you would have to have a strong enough developer, and a higher temperature, and not sure if rodinal would even do the trick, let alone you wouldnt want to use the rodinal possibly on any B&W if you intend to reuse the stock lol.

Maybe someone on here got some tips but I havent heard anything bout E6 crosprocessed in B&W since the temperature needs to be high, and that I don't think theres enough silver in E6 as opposed to older film to yeild a decent image.

 

[kb244]

could always do a snip-test.

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

What would happen? Try it, my friend! Something ALWAYS come out of experimentation.

 

[Gerald Koch]

I've got some expired Fuji T64 film that I intend to cross process in b&w film chemistry.

Why would want to do this? You will get a B&W negative. Being a color film the Fuji will exhibit poorer resolution because of its three layers than a B&W film. But, maybe that's what you want.

 

[gainer]

IIRC predevelopment of C-41 followed by fixing, washing, bleaching and redevelopment in the color chemicals was done for the purpose of increasing film speed. The result was a color neg that could be corrected for color balance fairly well. Never was tempted to try it myself, and have not heard of anyone else doing in in years.

I think you will also wind up with the orange density layer even if you only use B&W chemicals, but I could be wrong. If you want B&W prints, that can be done. The monochrome rendition of colors will be different from B&W film.

 

[Digidurst]

What would happen? Try it, my friend! Something ALWAYS come out of experimentation.

And so I did! I wouldn't call my experiment a success but it was fun. Thanks for the suggestions

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

And so I did! I wouldn't call my experiment a success but it was fun. Thanks for the suggestions

Good, what did it look like? Have you made a contact or some quick prints out of it?

 

[Digidurst]

Naw, I don't think I will make any prints. The negs came out quite thick!

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

Well, do you think there's anything worth pursuing with that combination?

 

[Digidurst]

No, I doubt so. Like I said, the film was expired anyway so I felt obliged to play with it

 

[pgomena]

Pat Gainer recalls correctly. Transparency film developed in a strong B&W developer (Acufine at 75 degrees f), fixed, bleached, re-exposed to light and processed C-41 gives a printable negative. Colors will be saturated and grain will be large and sharp. This was a standard "experimental" color project for students at Brooks Institute of Photography 15 years ago.

You need to over-rate your film one to two stops, Acufine development was anywhere from 9-15 minutes depending on the "push" and grain you wanted. Results were usually fascinating, a very different look when making large prints. The faster the film used, the larger the grain, of course. Lots of fun.

Peter Gomena

 

[Digidurst]

Pat Gainer recalls correctly. Transparency film developed in a strong B&W developer (Acufine at 75 degrees f), fixed, bleached, re-exposed to light and processed C-41 gives a printable negative. Colors will be saturated and grain will be large and sharp. This was a standard "experimental" color project for students at Brooks Institute of Photography 15 years ago.

You need to over-rate your film one to two stops, Acufine development was anywhere from 9-15 minutes depending on the "push" and grain you wanted. Results were usually fascinating, a very different look when making large prints. The faster the film used, the larger the grain, of course. Lots of fun.

Peter Gomena

How interesting! Thank you for telling me about it.