Switching To Metal Reels -Not So Simple....
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If metal reels are bent, they are likely hard to load. If so, they can be straightened. Learning to use the right tool is worth the effort. When young and dumb I tried plastic reels. Never again!
Yes, you need to bend it a tiny bit, so that when the film is flat the edges extend into the spiral. This (plastic vs. steel) is one of those unresolvable religious wars that come up from time to time. My own personal experience has been that for metal reels, it is worth paying a little extra to get the Hewes reels, esp. for 35mm--the little tabs make it vastly easier to load.
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The first time I loaded film was on a plastic reels in the 8th grade.
The next time was steel reels in college - and no one told me how to do it, so I tried pushing the film in. Needless to say, it didn't turn out very well. By the way, it was in a photojournalism course, and the instructor just assumed we'd know how to load the reels even though he knew most of us had only ever taken our film to a drug store.
When I finally got the hang of steel, I personally found it easier. I can now load steel faster than I can load plastic.
Having to bend, or cup, the film is how it is designed to work with steel reels. Perhaps a slightly steeper curve than plastic, but once you get the hang of either one (and the pros and cons of each), it comes down to preference. I do agree with your comment about seeming to have to bend the film - I had to learn that for myself too. After I learned how to do it I searched for how-to videos and articles for confirmation. Few actually mention that you have to do this. I've no problem with having to do that, but do find it annoying that such small but important details are relatively rare in instructions.
The Hewes reels practically load themselves. More expensive, but worth it to me. They make it much easier.
The next time was steel reels in college - and no one told me how to do it, so I tried pushing the film in. Needless to say, it didn't turn out very well. By the way, it was in a photojournalism course, and the instructor just assumed we'd know how to load the reels even though he knew most of us had only ever taken our film to a drug store.
When I finally got the hang of steel, I personally found it easier. I can now load steel faster than I can load plastic.
Having to bend, or cup, the film is how it is designed to work with steel reels. Perhaps a slightly steeper curve than plastic, but once you get the hang of either one (and the pros and cons of each), it comes down to preference. I do agree with your comment about seeming to have to bend the film - I had to learn that for myself too. After I learned how to do it I searched for how-to videos and articles for confirmation. Few actually mention that you have to do this. I've no problem with having to do that, but do find it annoying that such small but important details are relatively rare in instructions.
The Hewes reels practically load themselves. More expensive, but worth it to me. They make it much easier.
Kindermann reels and the old real deal Nikor reels are pretty good, too.
In my opinion, it was well worth the slightly bigger investment to outfit my 8-reel tank with Hewes reels. Easy loading, solid feel, and no bends, even after some minor violence.
MattKing
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I can load 35mm steel reels quite easily, and I don't even need those fancy Hewes "prongs".
I can also load 120 steel reels too, but I cannot use the spring clips that hold the film where it belongs, so I'm forced to use the Paterson "clone" plastic reels for 120, which makes me slightly sad, because I like using steel reels and tanks.
Loading the steel reels is fairly easy, in a dark room. In a changing bag, arghhhhh!
The trick I suggest is threefold - practice at first in the light, load in short, discrete bits, with lots of pulling and pushing to confirm it is smooth and free and learn to recognize the sound of film going smoothly into the reel.
I can also load 120 steel reels too, but I cannot use the spring clips that hold the film where it belongs, so I'm forced to use the Paterson "clone" plastic reels for 120, which makes me slightly sad, because I like using steel reels and tanks.
Loading the steel reels is fairly easy, in a dark room. In a changing bag, arghhhhh!
The trick I suggest is threefold - practice at first in the light, load in short, discrete bits, with lots of pulling and pushing to confirm it is smooth and free and learn to recognize the sound of film going smoothly into the reel.
Jim,
You don't need to be sarcastic or dismissive towards other methods/ choices.
Plastic reels work perfectly well, and there is no reason not to use them provided your volume fits their capacity. I found that a five reel plastic Jobo took up about as much height in the sink as an eight reel metal tank. I tend to develop a lot at once, so the switch was worth it for me.
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I've used plastic reels for twenty or so years and never had any problems. Can someone explain what the big advantage is in using metal reels.
I use plastic as well. Advantage of metal ones are smaller amount of chemicals needed, and easier loading when humidity is high. Also plastic reels should be always very dry (this is a problem when you are developing more films one after another and reels are wet from previous cycle).
Yes, those spring clips are the cause of much difficulty in loading metal reels. I remove them and bend them around the reel's core to block off all but the proper slot in the core. Then the film is free to center itself between the flanges. Folding the tip of the film over once or twice holds it in the core while you start winding the film onto the reel. Clean and good quality plastic reels may be easier for a casual user. The University of Iowa Photojournalism School prohibited them: aspiring professionals should learn how to use professional quality equipment.
Esp. if like me you have short stubby fingers that make it difficult to reach into the center of the reel.
And I'm not giving up my plastic Jobo tank for 4x5.
Western Iowa Tech uses Paterson reels and tanks (I know I'm the instructor). And take it from me, plastic, stainless, Paterson, Jobo, Kindermann, Hewes... doesn't matter. Students are going to mess up. The learning curve seems to be gentler with the Paterson stuff. In my home darkroom I use Hewes reels (mostly) in Kindermann tanks. Professional photographers are using d*gital equipment or custom labs.
There is no advantage, it's just what you get used to. What I like about plastic reels is that you can knock them off the bench onto the floor and they are fine, steel reels are usually trash if they hit the deck. Only possible advantage I can see with steel is that it conducts heat better. I use steel trays but plastic (jobo) reels
The advantages of metal reels are: 1) less chemistry needed when using chemicals once and discarding (one shot), e.g., using a developer at a dilution; 2) more rapid temperature change if pre-warming your empty tank/reels/film to the developing temperature, part of temperature control for b&w and especially color developing.
Other problem with steel tank when not used in a darkroom is, slow filling and dump times. For larger tank that takes two or more reels it may take more than 30seconds or longer...
Some trash is always good for the society, err forum.
Plastic reels and tanks can break, too. Steel reels that have been dropped can be restored to full function. I'm clumsy enough to have had to do it too many times.
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