Switching fixer chemistry

[tkamiya]

I have been using Kodak Professional Fixer and I am now switching to Ilford Rapid Fixer.

I know what the label says and I also read the tech notes but as usual, a lot of it is "well depends..." I'd like to hear form folks who use them. If anyone can answer some or all of my concerns, I'd appreciate it.

I mixed it 1+4. That is, one part solution and added 4 times that of water. This is according to the instructions on the first page of the peel-off and in tech note. Then I peeled the peel-off. Inside it, it says 1+3. What happened here? (please - no lengthy discussions of dilution ratio notations....)

While Kodak's fixer says 2 months of working solution shelf-life, I use it for 6 months and it's been working fine. (I do clip test) What about Ilford Rapid fixer? 1.25 liter will be kept in 1/2 gallon bottle, so there's about 500cc of air in the bottle. In your experience, does it last 6 months? (or should I add water and make it somewhere between 1+4 and 1+9, then adjust the time accordingly?)

I intend to fix RC paper for one full minute in single bath, and FB paper in two 1 minute each steps. This is from everything I read on this forum. Is this appropriate?

I use Tmax100, 400, Plus-X 125, and Tri-X 400. Occasionally Delta 3200. I used to fix 10 to 12 minutes with Kodak's. Literature says 2 to 5 minutes with Ilford's. Would 5 minutes be about right and safe?

I can use Acetic acid based stop bath, right???

My understanding is, with rapid fixer, HCA isn't as critical as regular fixer. But still is recommended. Is this correct?

In the literature, it says NO HARDENER with rapid fixer. Is it correct to understand this as do not MIX IN the hardener?? If I brown / sepia tone it, can I soak the semi-washed print in regular fixer with hardener or just hardener? Or would my print blow up if I do that???

 

[brucemuir]

Why aren't you using TF4 or 5?
Has good keeping properties.
It fixes faster and washes out easier.

 

[nworth]

Fix paper 2 minutes. 6 months is a bit long, but as long as you do regular testing you will know if it goes bad.

 

[nworth]

Ilford Rapid Fixer is the one I use so I can answer most of these questions, though not all.

....
3. In fresh fixer, 30 seconds is enough for RC. 60 seconds is enough for FB. If you are using a two-bath system for FB, I'd suggest 30 seconds + 30 seconds. It will not harm the print to fix for 1 minute in each bath, but it will lengthen washing times significantly.
....

Wrong! That will badly underfix the prints. You may not see the problem for a year or more, but the prints will not be permanent. Also, there is not really any difference between fixing RC and FB papers.

 

[tkamiya]

Actually, what Michael suggests is what Ilford says on its literature.... for RC and FB.

 

[tkamiya]

We talk a lot about degradation of developers due to exposure to oxygen/air, but we never talk about the same for fixers. How important is it to keep it sealed and to the rim in more practical sense? Would it significantly affect shelf life? The amount I print basically requires my fixer to last at least 4 months. This is rather important topic for me.

 

[removed account4]

t -

don't add hardener ...
most papers and films don't need to have their
emulsions hardened ... and it will pose problems
if you tone and/or archival-wash ...

have fun!
john

 

[tkamiya]

Right, John.... but almost all brown/sepia toners recommends use of hardener after the treatment as they tend to soften the emulsion. That's the only reason why I mentioned it. What do you think? Photographer's formulary sepia toner actually says to fix it again with hardener for this purpose.

 

[MattKing]

Ilford Rapid Fixer is not sufficiently buffered to permit addition of a hardener, so that is why the instructions say do not add hardener.

Ilford Hypam Fixer works similarly to Ilford Rapid Fixer, but is sufficiently buffered for use with a hardener, so you can add one, but note that none comes with it.

Are you re-using your fixer, or using it one shot? For film it can easily be re-used. I fix between 10 and 14 rolls per litre of 1 + 4 working solution - that is well within the published manufacturer's recommendation of 24 rolls. I check fixer capacity using a clip test.

As for fixing times, the Ilford literature indicates the times referred to by the OP, but note the choice of words:

"Below are the average minimum fixing times at
20ºC (68ºF) for materials manually processed
using fresh fixer, the range of times for film takes
into account different film types."

Emphasis added by me.

For film, my procedure is to divide my working strength fixer into two equal portions of 1/2 liter each. I then fix with one of those portions, using continuous rotary agitation. I use the other portion to perform the clip test. When the clip has cleared, I empty the first portion from the tank, visually inspect the film to confirm clearing, and then use the second portion of the fixer with the same agitation and for the same clearing time. All the used fixer ends up back into my working strength bottle, and I record how many rolls have gone through it.

 

[tkamiya]

Matt,

Thanks. I actually knew the buffer tid-bit. My question really is, after I fix and wash briefly, can I soak the print into hardener? Or - if I do that, would my print blow up? (or be damaged some how?) I ask this because brown toner and sepia toner I use says to do it for they soften emulsions and Ilford says not to.

I re-use fixer for both film and paper. I keep tabs of how many rolls of which type (tabular or class) I processed and how many 8x10 papers. (yes, they are separate bottles!) I'm not so concerned about film part because if it didn't work, the result will be obvious. My concern is for paper.

 

[Pat Erson]

"60 seconds is enough for FB"

PROVIDED you dilute your fixer at 1+4. It wouldn't work with the standard paper dilution of 1+9 (which is the one commonly used with RC papers)