Swapping Lenses on a Fed 3

[David Jones]

I took a roll of black and white film on my Zorki 4 with Jupiter 8 and the pics were sharp. I have not tried colour film in it yet. When I tried my Fed 3 with Industar 26m using colour film the results were not as good. Do Russian lenses perform better with black and white? Could I try another lens on the Fed or is the lens particular to the camera (matched at the factory)? I will try a black and white film first.

On the internet I some fantastically sharp pictures taken with these cameras. Other pics are quite soft. Do some posters sharpen them?

Thanks

 

[Nodda Duma]

I have a fed 3 that makes great pics.

Check focus accuracy of the rangefinder?

 

[Ian Grant]

Lenses can differ in quality and condition as well may be a factor. The Jupiter 8 is an excellent lens usually, your Indsutar-26M is a 50mm/5cm f2.8 lens (not 26mm). The lenses are inter-changeable so try both on the Zorki 4 (or the Fed 3.

A lens in poor optical conditio, cleaning marks, scratches or internal haze will appear softer, but digital sharpening may enhance images on the internet as well.

Ian

 

[David Jones]

I don't think it is the rangefinder. This is accurate at 1m, 3m and infinity, at least. The pics are ok just a little softer than the other camera.

Ian. I was just worried that you might have to shim the lenses.

David

 

[BrianVS]

Most of the Russian lenses do better when custom-shimmed to the camera that they will be used on. Over the years, chances are this lens was matched up to a camera that isn't the one you are using.

First thing would be to examine for Haze- shine a bright light through the lens. Second would be to make sure the elements are not misassembled- use a sheet of paper to examine the image that the lens forms. "You'll know if it is not right", the center will be in focus- almost nothing else. With all that good, You need to measure if the actual focus of the lens matches your camera: use a ruler set at 1meter, take a picture of the middle of the ruler. There is an easy formula to use to compute how much to thicken or thin the shim based on how far off the point of focus is from where you focused with the RF.

I documented the correction formula here:

http://aperturepriority.co.nz//wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Jupiter-3-Shimming-Instructions.pdf

My Industar-26m benefits from a full-CLA and shimming-

Gunston Hall, April 2017 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

This is an under-rated lens. Pictures of the teardown here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/90768661@N02/albums/72157681874565975

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Two things you need to know about FSU production.
First, quality variation is very wide for same item. Not lens only.
Second, they actually passed the law for making it crime to not keep standard focal distance for rangefinder and lens. But it never works. At every FSU camera repair book they have chapter for how to bring to standard, lens or camera.

So, FED-3 or I-26m or both could be out of the standard. At both cases, shimming is the word.

Also, I-26m is known to be less sharp (officially) on any film and not so modern on colors. If "sharp" is the merit of quality for you, get Industar-61 L/D. Good copy is very sharp. And it is most modern lens for color.

 

[David Jones]

Thanks for the new answers. Brian- That is sharp but it is on a posh digital camera rather than film. I may be expecting too much but here is one test shot from the fed 3. It is on Kodak Gold 200. I wonder if the exposure is correct. I have focused on my sister.

 

[David Jones]

This pic I focused on the cathedral. Having now looked at these pics uploaded and not so big they don't look too bad after all.

 

[BrianVS]

They look sharp to me- no need for shimming. Make sure you use a shade, and also a UV or Skylight filter for color. Remember that the older glass passes UV, and it will decrease contrast. Look for any thin haze on the inner elements, especially on each side of the aperture. This is an easy DIY lens. I bought Five of them in a Lot for $45- all needed work, all were filthy inside and out. Three came out like this, other two are parts lenses now. Those three required shimming for accurate focus. I have to tell my daughter that my camera is "Posh", she gets embarrassed that I use "such an old camera". What is true- lower contrast lenses do better with digital cameras, prevent clipping. The Schneider UV multi-coated filter that I have on the lens cost a lot more than the lens. I also like it as it was made the same year I was born. We're old.

I've used the I-61L/D on my Nikon RF's, the SP and S3- actually converted them to be collapsible lenses from the Leica mount. Lots of contrast. The I-26 has less contrast, more subject to flare. If anything- on a digital camera the flare would be worse as the sensor is more reflective than film. The I-26 Mount is better machined, I might try converting an I-61L/D to use the older tabbed I-26M mount.

 

[David Jones]

Thanks, Brian. I used a shade but no filter. do you think a filter would make a big difference?
Thanks

 

[BrianVS]

I do believe a UV or Skylight would improve color performance, especially when used with film. Film is sensitive to UV, and the older glass used in the I-26 does not block UV. UV light tends to put an out-of-focus Haze over the image.

Sorry for the late reply- been out taking pictures...