Do you still want to measure spot? If you do it would be rather difficult because spot meters are not as sensitive because the sensor is restricted to a very small spot. The incident meter would be a lot more sensitive but I guess it wouldn't work for you. So I understand your problem but I don't really have a solution. The Gossen Luna Pro is more sensitive but only if you use it for incident or 40 degree reflective.Tonight I was photographing a late dusk scene and thought my Pentax spot could get me some ballpark figures. Alas, it was too dark for anything to register. So I was wondering if any of the latest and greatest spot meters out there are more sensitive than an 20 year old Pentax spot meter?
Take pictures with a digital camera and use its settings. Don't forget to calculate and adjust for reciprocity failure for the film you're using. You might want to bracket.Do you still want to measure spot? If you do it would be rather difficult because spot meters are not as sensitive because the sensor is restricted to a very small spot. The incident meter would be a lot more sensitive but I guess it wouldn't work for you. So I understand your problem but I don't really have a solution. The Gossen Luna Pro is more sensitive but only if you use it for incident or 40 degree reflective.
Ding, ding, ding…Luna Pro
No, the Pentax is about as good as it gets. Up to Sekonic 588, still only matching the Pentax with EV1 as lowest range. The latest Sekonic 858 does to to EV-1, that might be the most sensitive 1degree meter.Tonight I was photographing a late dusk scene and thought my Pentax spot could get me some ballpark figures. Alas, it was too dark for anything to register. So I was wondering if any of the latest and greatest spot meters out there are more sensitive than an 20 year old Pentax spot meter?
Yes, I have used that technique and it works well but I didn’t bring a digital camera on this trip. I did have an iPhone but the procedure for getting ISO/f stop/shutter off an iPhone apparently needs an app and is a bit convoluted.Take pictures with a digital camera and use its settings. Don't forget to calculate and adjust for reciprocity failure for the film you're using. You might want to bracket.
Yes, I have used that technique and it works well but I didn’t bring a digital camera on this trip. I did have an iPhone but the procedure for getting ISO/f stop/shutter off an iPhone apparently needs an app and is a bit convoluted.
Ditto!For night photography I have been using the Jiffy Calculator since it was first published in 1963.
https://www.scribd.com/document/2604955/jiffy
Metering a white sheet of paper would have been useless. My subject was 500 metres to 3 kilometres away and I was standing under a rather bright street light. Metering a white sheet of paper in my situation would have given me an exposure of a few seconds. I've just developed the film and the 40 second at f8 looks to be about the best of the bracket. I didn't have to worry about reciprocity failure as I couldn't get a meter reading.Try metering a white sheet of paper or card. That will get you an extra 3 stops or so of sensitivity. Don't forget to then adjust the exposure by the same three stops.
And look out for reciprocity failure. Slow films suffer less reciprocity failure and can sometimes be functionally faster than their higher ISO brethren.
Gossen LunaPro, both CdS and SBC, were spec’d as -4 to 17 EV(100).
If it gets dark enough, the OP may need to relieve the spot requirement.The OP only is interested in spot meters.
And in their spot meter conversion the Gossen Profisix and Mastersix have a sensitivity of only EV 3 at 1degree
This is true yet the only way to get as low as Luna Pro can is to get Luna Pro and use it without thinking spot. Otherwise majority of spot meters fall in same region and cannot be called super sensitive no matter which one.The OP only is interested in spot meters.
And in their spot meter conversion the Gossen Profisix and Mastersix have a sensitivity of only EV 3 at 1degree
+11If it gets dark enough, the OP may need to relieve the spot requirement.
Or, to stay in the picture, use a spotlight...
If it gets dark enough, the OP may need to relieve the spot requirement.
Multi-spot for Luna Pro is 1/5/10 degree switchable spot.I had the 5° spot meter attachment which is why I sold it and bought the Pentax Digital Spot Meter.
Multi-spot for Luna Pro is 1/5/10 degree switchable spot.
To be fair, Luna Pro with Multi-Spot is a behemoth, the whole meter grows like 3 times in volume. But works fine otherwise. But I stated it just to clarify its availability. I use Minolta Spot when spot is needed. But Luna Pro is a fantastic meter.But I had the 10°/5° attachment and rather than sell that and find a 1° to buy, I ditched it. I needed a good spot meter much more than I needed a low light level meter.
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