Super Ikonta IV metering

[Worker 11811]

I have a Zeiss Super Ikonta IV. I've used it and it works well but the meter is weak. It works but doesn't read correctly. I don't see any need to replace it since I already have two good handheld light meters, anyway.

Just a question...

The camera's meter reads out in EV numbers. You take a reading then dial the EV in on the click-stops which then gives you a series of coordinated shutter/aperture combinations to work with.

Are the EV numbers reported by the camera's meter the same as the ones that my Gossen Luna Pro meter reports?

Can I simply get an EV reading from the Gossen then dial that into the Ikonta as if I had read it off the camera or do I need to make an ISO compensation for different speed films?

 

[John Koehrer]

Generally, yes the EV on the Gossen relates directly to the camera.
Once you set the ISO on the meter, there's no further compensation needed with that camera.

 

[Worker 11811]

Thanks!

I got the camera out again and I plan to get it ready to shoot. It is virtually mint except where the words "Super Ikonta" are worn off the front. But for that, the meter it is in perfect condition. All I need to do is dust it out a little bit and carefully clean the lens.

I suppose I should dry fire it a few times and practice metering with the Gossen before I put a roll of film in it. It shouldn't take long.

After that I'm off! I've got a few rolls of Ilford Pan F+. I'm looking forward to getting some tasty pictures!

Just one more question: They say I should wrap a couple of rounds of gaffer's tape around the takeup spool in order to keep the frame spacing accurate. Is that right?

 

[P C Headland]

Thanks!

...
Just one more question: They say I should wrap a couple of rounds of gaffer's tape around the takeup spool in order to keep the frame spacing accurate. Is that right?

Correct, or a couple of turns of some spare backing paper. Or, if you forget to bring anything with you, you can line the backing paper start arrows up with the edge of the take up spool chamber, then close the back and wind.

It does vary between film brands, and camera to camera. With my SI III, I can get away with winding the start arrows on to the edge of the film chamber, which gives a couple of close frames, but the rest are fine.