Super glue safe?

[dontcallmebrave]

I'm re sealing a Ricoh 500g, it has a small rectangle piece of metal that's supposed to be attached to the back door for the film counter lever to rub on instead of wearing the aluminum of the back.

The melted goo that used to be the light seal foam lifted the metal tab off the back and stuck it to the body so I'm trying to reattach it.

Would I be ok using crazy glue if I left the door open for a day or two to off gas? I'm not sure if CA glue fumes would affect anything else?

 

[dontcallmebrave]

For reference you can see it on the top left of the door in this light seal replacement guide.
Mine was stuck to the back of the body preventing the shutter counter from resetting to S, along with 80% of the foam

Lomography - How to Refurbish Your Ricoh 500G With Damaged Seals

A simple tipster on how to to refurbish your Ricoh 500G. Read on to see how I did it.

www.lomography.com

 

[rulnacco]

I'm not sure Crazy Glue is your best bet. I'd probably use Pliobond, which is pretty standard for camera repairs--it's always handy to have a tube around to stick down bits of leatherette that have come loose.

If you put a bit of Pliobond on both the back of the metal rectangle and on the back door, and let them get a bit tacky before you stick them together, you'll get a very strong bond indeed. And it won't be as "brittle" as crazy glue and its relatives can be. Otherwise, I'd probably use a good two-part epoxy.

I'd think over time the crazy glue would give way a lot sooner than either of those; personally, I'd try the Pliobond route first.

 

[AgX]

I am kind of deterred by Super Glue. And I even by accident coated a lens (glass and body) with condensing vapour.

But if such glue is applied in a way that it is finally covered completely by the surfaces to be connected (e.g. plate to plate), I see no problem.

But unless its namegiving merits, fixing parts within sconds, is not absolutely necessary, I use other glues. At first place for me, for eternal and stiff fixings, comes epoxy glue.

 

[albada]

Similar to AgX, I accidentally coated a lens inside a rangefinder using CA fumes. The resulting haze would not clean off, resulting in a portion of the framelines being blurry.
That said, I've noticed that most of the out-gassing occurs in the first few minutes, so leaving the door open a day or two, with the lens protected, will probably be fine.
Also, CA does not stick to some aluminum surfaces, so you might have no choice but to use other glues. Contact cement, such as Pliobond, would be good.

Mark Overton

 

[glbeas]

Yes CA is brittle after it has set. If the parts involved have any thermal expansion or flexing issues it will eventually fail.

 

[dontcallmebrave]

Ok so it sounds like I was right to be concerned and ask first lol

It doesn't look like any of the box stores carry Pliobond here, but it looks like it's a nitrile based contact cement.
So I guess I can use contact cement or rubber cement (for anything I want to be able to remove ever again lol) in its place.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Sirius Glass]

A thin coat of Gorilla Glue binds and is flexible. It was recommended to me for gluing a layer of shutter cloth to repair tears on focal plane shutters. The bond allows the cloth to be wound up on the shaft without cracking or tearing which is what Super Glue does. Gorilla Glue can be later removed from surfaces without the damage that Super Glue would do.

 

[Tel]

My local Ace Hardware store sells Pliobond. Does Ace extend into Canada?

 

[dontcallmebrave]

My local Ace Hardware store sells Pliobond. Does Ace extend into Canada?

Unfortunately no, we miss out on stuff like Ace and Harbour Freight
I've found Pliobond online but I'd have to order a large container and wait who knows how long for it.

Decided I'm going with E6000 and I'm going to wet set, applying it to just one side. That should pretty close to what Pliobond will do for me.

 

[250swb]

I wouldn't use superglue anywhere near a camera unless it was advertised as 'non-blooming'. With humidity regular and normally perfectly reliable superglues can cause a bloom, a white patch of superglue vapour around the contact site that can be impossible to remove. The problem in using a normal superglue is you don' know what it's humidity threshold is. You can get superglue de-bonders that will remove the bloom, unless it spreads to somewhere tricky.

 

[AgX]

Similar to AgX, I accidentally coated a lens inside a rangefinder using CA fumes. The resulting haze would not clean off, resulting in a portion of the framelines being blurry.

Well, I had to cement something on a workbench filled with a lot of stuff. I used a micro tube of glue. As typical with super glue, one does not have the time or the third hand to close the tube with the glue immediately, so I placed it upright. Well, I forgot about that tube, even worse somehow that tube fell over unnoticed and I left the room. Next day a big lens placed about 3" next to that tube was partially covered with that white haze and I found a little puddle of glue on the table perspex surface as of course the fallen over tube has emptied itself partially. However it was no problem removing the haze from the front element and the barrel with the apt solvent. Luckily the barrel was from aluminium.

 

[guangong]

A thin coat of Gorilla Glue binds and is flexible. It was recommended to me for gluing a layer of shutter cloth to repair tears on focal plane shutters. The bond allows the cloth to be wound up on the shaft without cracking or tearing which is what Super Glue does. Gorilla Glue can be later removed from surfaces without the damage that Super Glue would do.

Gorilla Glue would be my first choice. If not, then contact cement. Super glue is ok for China, but too permanent. Also requires a sure and rapid hand.