For those who haven't read the Quick Disc instructions its advantage is that the target you place in the scene to measure on the ground glass is round rather than square. For optimum accuracy a square target must have either its width or its height perpendicular to line of sight from the camera. With a round target orientation doesn't matter--you just measure across the widest axis of the round image on the ground glass. njb
For those who haven't read the Quick Disc instructions its advantage is that the target you place in the scene to measure on the ground glass is round rather than square. For optimum accuracy a square target must have either its width or its height perpendicular to line of sight from the camera. With a round target orientation doesn't matter--you just measure across the widest axis of the round image on the ground glass. njb
Nacio is correct. With a square target take care to make sure it is square to the camera. A skew will make difference, generally very little, until the target is notably askew, but a difference nonetheless. I use a square, because squares don't roll, the round one is a little more of a PIA, but that's probably just me. If you want it round, just draw a circle on the target that reaches the edges, and cut it out that way. It's not rocket science.
So where is the super friggin doohickey down load?
Does your solution blow away? My quickdisk blew over the rim of Canyon De Chelly. Never stayed where i put it anyway. My wife just inherited a marine service shop with a metal mill. I have been thinking about making one of these out of aluminum, so it stays put. I don't know the first thing about fixing boats but i do know how to put the tools other uses. I'll leave the boat fixing to the shop manager and other employees.
So where is the super friggin doohickey down load?
Does your solution blow away? My quickdisk blew over the rim of Canyon De Chelly. Never stayed where i put it anyway. My wife just inherited a marine service shop with a metal mill. I have been thinking about making one of these out of aluminum, so it stays put. I don't know the first thing about fixing boats but i do know how to put the tools other uses. I'll leave the boat fixing to the shop manager and other employees.
You can find it under the "cool stuff" link on my website.
It can, and will blow away, depending on how heavy the stock is that you print it on. I have been intending to glue one to thin hobby ply. Usually I do macro work with still life things inside, so it's not generally a problem, but I keep more than one in my bag, when afield. Having a tack, and tape, solve many a problem. An aluminium one would be the bomb.
Actually I like my current Quickdisc better, because you can also critically focus on it. With your version, that will be a bit more difficult, but maybe a hint for further improvement?
Sorry for resuscitate this old topic but today i see your interesting video about this argument but after download the pdf i can't see anything because appear the message: Pdf document is damaged.
We recently (2009) purchased the last remaining inventory of LF Deardorff & Sons, Inc. Included amid the thousands of parts we bought were a whole case of bellows exposure calculators called "EZ-View." They're brand new in the plastic case. If any of you are looking for them, look on eBay at our store.
Thanks,
Barry C. Cochran
LF Deardorff & Sons, Inc.
eBay seller: Attrevida
I haven't read all the threads but since I would rather not do the math especially when out. I took a small retractable tape measure and did the math for each of my three lenses and marked the exposure factors with a different color for each lens with a permanent marker. I just measure from the lens to the film plane and see what the adjustment is. I keep the tape connected to the strap of my lightmeter. The tape measure is about 2"x2" very cheap in your favorite hardware store.