You could buy yourself 5050 ip65 typewaterproofLED strip and connect to a 12v source.. Cut a length say of 12/18 inches...makes a good safelight...can be inserted into an acrylic clear tube if you want. Its usually marked with an image (some show a pair of scissors where you cut)..just attach a couple of wires for power..... Cheap/effective.
A "red" LED is not guaranteed to be safe. You can pre-test with a CD/DVD makeshift spectroscope and perform the actual test following the Kodak safelight test procedure. And, "darkroom safe" is not the same for Ilford or Foma multigrade, the latter having a more stringent requirement. Even worse for Ilford Commercial Ortho.
See : https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/crappy-leds-nice-safelight.206371/
Thanks guys, the ones I posted are made to be safelights. I've used them for years in the US and continue to use them in Australia but I have to use a transformer. Thing is the damned they're made in Korea, so you'd think they also make 220v ones.
No, they just happen to work for the application and at some point they updated the product description to include this particular application. They're just a generic, low-power RED LED bulb. There are bound to be other types available; just shop around a bit. There's no reason to be married to these particular ones.
In the past I used a similar bulb for tray development of xray film; for that application it did need some additional rubylith filtering. I think it was safe for paper, but it's been years since I used it.
Just to be clear, the Superbright red LEDS are indeed safe, I have been using them exclusively for years and have tested them many times.. I also use the Amber color. I go with the Red because I process a film that is not sensitive to red and the Superbrights are fine with that film as well as paper. I keep a bulb directly over my developer tray about 30 inches away. I would think there would be some adapter for converting outlets.
It'd have to have a transformer in it. It's not just an adapter if it needs to go from 115-230V. An autotransformer would work, as would a newfangled AC-DC-AC contraption. Anything along those lines would be absolute overkill; just look for a 230V-rated device instead, or something that runs off of 5V,12V or 24V and use a generic AC/DC power supply.
I used those when I was in the US for a few weeks working on a project and had no problems as a safe light. I am setting up my darkroom now and withpout even thingking, as it was a few years ago I used them, I just plugged them in here, in the UK, and they work fine but haven't tested.
I found I needed a Rubylith filter using them with X-ray film (Fuji HR-T) but that's been some years back. I suspect one hazard of these "off label" uses is that the devices are not specified or tested for spectral curves to any extent. They seem targeted at signs and such and in theory might incur some occasional production changes that would be acceptable as long as they appear red from 50 meters/yards away.
I've had really good results with Christmas targeted red LED rope lights. Even, almost shadow-less illumination that passes the Kodak Safelight test.
And this is a good time of year to find them on store shelves .