Suggestions for Low Light B&W Film

[Peter Spangenberg]

I'm shooting 8x10 Foma 200 in low light conditions outdoors (thick canopy of trees that allows in filtered sunlight), and even with adjustments for reciprocity I'm having a hard time getting the amount of shadow detail I'd like without getting too much exposure in the highlights. Any suggestions for a film that might be more sensitive at the low end of the scale?

 

[juan]

I've only begun to experiment with Foma 200, but if you are getting adequate shadow detail, you are probably developing too long. My initial tests with this film and Pyrocat show it is very good at contraction. This film seems to develop very quickly, so my high contrast negatives are developed in only three minutes or so.

I should add that this is with continuous development at 72F.
juan

 

[Tom Duffy]

What developer are you using. The answer might lie in a pyro developer to keep detail in the highlights.

 

[Peter Spangenberg]

I'm exposing at ISO 100 and developing in Rodinal 1:30

 

[fschifano]

The problem is not so much with the film, but with the developer you're using. Foma 200T is a little bit slower than the name would suggest, and Rodinal does nothing to maintain film speed in the shadow areas. I'm using a bit of this stuff lately and it seems to do best for me in XTOL. Even then, using it 1+1 for about 8 minutes at 68F in a tank for rollfilm with intermittent agitation, the best I'm able to do is about EI 160 and that's when the scene has flat lighting. Go to http://www.foma.cz and study up on the tech sheet for the film. According to the document, best shadow speed can be had with Microphen. My experience is that XTOL works almost as what they publish for Microphen. D-76 comes in a close third.

 

[Jim Noel]

If you are getting adequate shadow detail, but the HL are blowing out reduce the development either by less time or higher dilution. Most people find it easier to reduce the time. Try 1/2 stop more exposure and -25% development to begin with.

 

[juan]

If I were using Rodinal with this film, I think I would dilute more than you are - I might even try 1:100.
I concur about the film being slower than advertised - my densitometer tests for an SBR 7 (N) negative put the speed at about 86 with a normal, Grade 2 paper.
juan

 

[Peter Spangenberg]

I've ordered some Microphen. I'll give that a try as well as the more dilute Rodinal.

 

[dancqu]

Any suggestions for a film that might be more
sensitive at the low end of the scale?

I shoot under similar conditions. Acros is my current film.
You can forget about reciprocity when using Acros. I'd
have thought it mentioned. It's faster than Tri-X after
4 seconds and stays fast. 8x10? Dan

 

[Chuck_P]

I'm shooting 8x10 Foma 200 in low light conditions outdoors (thick canopy of trees that allows in filtered sunlight), and even with adjustments for reciprocity I'm having a hard time getting the amount of shadow detail I'd like without getting too much exposure in the highlights. Any suggestions for a film that might be more sensitive at the low end of the scale?

I don't think a magic bullet exists for such a difficult lighting situation---it is not a film choice issue IMO. I think it would be problematic for any b&w negative film.

You are describing a high contrast lighting situation with deep forest shade and splashes of sunlight. I think you are going to have to provide enough "exposure" to register detail in the desired shadow area(s) and then plan "development" to control the density in the important highlight area(s). This is the classic "expose for the shadows and develop for the highlight" situation. There might be a contrast ratio of 10,000 to one in such situations and you are going to have to expose and develop the film in such a way to reproduce it (or express it to satisfy your vision of it) within the limitations of the paper, which, you can be assured, is nowhere near 10K to 1.

I only have experience using highly dilute HC-110 using roll film with some good success. I would embark on learning the ZS or BTZS methods of "exposure and development", it's pretty cool.

Chuck

 

[Ian Grant]

Many of my images have been shot in lowish light levels, with sun-light filtering through the trees, and I've had no problems using Agfa APX100 or Tmax100 films. They seem to thrive under these conditions and I've never needed to allow for reciprocity. In extreme cases I've used N-1 or N-2 exposures/development but have always had excellent shadow detail.

Ian

 

[Ray Heath]

I've only begun to experiment with Foma 200, but if you are getting adequate shadow detail, you are probably developing too long. My initial tests with this film and Pyrocat show it is very good at contraction. This film seems to develop very quickly, so my high contrast negatives are developed in only three minutes or so.

I should add that this is with continuous development at 72F.
juan

g'day all

juan, why continous agitation? won't that increase contrast unnecessarily?

Ray

 

[Scott Peters]

Two thoughts, reduce development, which I often do with long exposures experiencing reciprocity, or develop by inspection. The suggestion of n-1 or n-2 is a good place to start.