Suggestions for large prints

eddie · Aug 28, 2007

I'd like to make large (30"x 40", or so) FB prints, but can't find trays large enough. When I worked in a lab, we made extremely large prints by rolling through chemistry, in a plastic flowerbox, like you'd find at Home Depot. They tended to kink, though. Since I hand paint my work, a kink can make it unusable. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Eddie

bdial · Aug 28, 2007

How about the flood basins used under washing machines? Though I'm not sure about the 40" dimension. These trays are about 4 inches deep and large enough in width and length to accomodate a washing machine. H.D. in our area sells them and they are around ten or twenty $'s each, as I recall.

Rob Skeoch · Aug 28, 2007

what about the tray's that people use for wall paper.... I think they have a metal middle portion to keep the paper down and should prevent kinking.
-rob

Jon Shiu · Aug 28, 2007

Some ideas base on printing large RC prints: have two people to handle the paper, one on each side of the trough. Then slowly raise and lower each side. Another thought, if using a 40 inch roll, don't try to re-roll it to the shorter direction or it may kink. You can glue two wall paper trays together to make 42 inch or more trays.

Oh, there is also a section on mural printing in Ansel Adams The Print book.

Jon

KenS · Aug 28, 2007

eddie said:
I'd like to make large (30"x 40", or so) FB prints, but can't find trays large enough. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Eddie

Eddie,

How about screwing some 2x4's in either a rectangle or square and lay on the floor. Loosely cover with some 6 mil construction poly and staple to the outside to form a temporary 'tray'. You should be able to process your chosen size of paper by sloshing the gallon or so of developer around with a sponge.

A second or third tray would be advantageous. Washing can be done in the bathtub.

I have, in the distant past, made large prints from roll paper in this manner.

Ken

jeroldharter · Aug 28, 2007

I have never done this but read about it. Check out Clyde Butcher's website. He does very large prints (5x8 feet) from ULF black and white negatives. I saw a brief video at one of his exhibits which showed some of the processing. As someone mentioned, two people handle the paper which is processed in long wallpaper troughs. The paper is in a roll and gently rolled from one direction to the other, passing through the chemistry slowly. The wet paper is too fragile not to roll it. I think he uses development to completion and long processing times to assure uniformity. I have no idea how he dries ot or mounts it but the prints are stunning.

I suppose another farflung option would be to get a very large tube, like a Jobo open on both ends, put the paper in the tube, and then roll the tube in the troughs like open-ended BTZS film tubes.

PhotoSmith · Aug 28, 2007

jeroldharter said:
I suppose another farflung option would be to get a very large tube, like a Jobo open on both ends, put the paper in the tube, and then roll the tube in the troughs like open-ended BTZS film tubes.

The tube idea is not so far-flung. I have a very large tube and roller base for large prints. The tube is 31" long and has a diameter if 18".

I use a large plastic bottle, kind of like a 5 gallon water bottle, with a hole cut out of the bottom that leaves about a 2" rim, to do test prints in. Then I process the final print in the large tube.

I bought this setup from a retiring photographer years ago when he was liquidating his equipment. I know the roller base was custom made, but I'm not sure about the tube.

You might be able to find a very large plastic drum from a chemical supply house, or one of their customers, and then make your own roller base.

richard ide · Aug 29, 2007

I have made prints up to 40 x 50 by taping the print to the wall above the bath tub and using sponges for developer. stop bath and fix. Then washing the print in the tub. Worked very well.

eddie · Sep 1, 2007

Thanks for all the suggestions. I just found out that B&H sells 30"x40" trays for $75 each.
Now, I just have to come up with an easel solution......

Neanderman · Sep 1, 2007

PhotoSmith said:
The tube idea is not so far-flung. I have a very large tube and roller base for large prints.

A former professor of mine uses a home made tube constructed from large PVC sewer pipe and two end caps. His roller base is a wooden V shaped sort of construction with roller skate wheels.

He says it's kind of comical to see him wrestling with it to fill and empty it, but it does work and quite well.

I know he's done at least 40 x 40 prints this way as well as some panoramic prints that are at least 40" long.

Ed

Peter Black · Sep 1, 2007

eddie said:
Now, I just have to come up with an easel solution......

Tape the paper to a wall and turn the enlarger head sideways?

Jon Shiu · Sep 1, 2007

If you are projecting on the floor, you can tape it to a piece of mat board or foarm core.

Jon

Murray@uptowngallery · Sep 1, 2007

I have heard about the sponge method but that answer raises more questions than answers...

How do you know when you are done developing...development by inspection?

Same with fixing and washing...how do you know how long is enough with the discontinuous immersion?

Seems like there is alot of 'air exposure' time along with the immersion times.

Thank you

richard ide · Sep 1, 2007

Murray
If you apply the developer for your reccomended tray development time, there is no problem. I forget which developer I used but the image came up rapidly. the 'air exposure' really isn't an issue as the print is covered with liquid once you start developing. Really little chance of aerial oxidation. Fixing is tray time plus a little extra. Using chemistry as a one shot is a little wasteful but otherwise print size would be limited by the trays I had. I washed longer than I needed to and used test solution to ensure complete washing. I did this before I got into the business where I had to hand process anything wider than 48" (in trays).

Murray@uptowngallery · Sep 2, 2007

OK, I guess one would use normal strength developer if one had half a brain, no 1:100 Rodinal stand development :O)

Thanks

richard ide · Sep 2, 2007

"OK, I guess one would use normal strength developer if one had half a brain, no 1:100 Rodinal stand development :O)"

I don't know how well this would work with prints!

Pim Warnars · Sep 2, 2007

My largest prints at the moment are 23x 40 and I'm thinking of getting bigger, too. I also thought out to make a pvc tube with end taps. You can process with normal light, don't need to make a 4 liters of developer to fill the tray and you can pour in dev, stop, two fix baths, rinse and hca agent in some 15 minutes without any danger of folding the paper. You don't need alot of space either and your test strips you make in a small tray. For easel I'm thinking about making a vertical one with a double board, the side you project on you make alot of small holes and connect it to a ventilator snalehose type so you have enough suction to hold the paper perfectly flat to the wall. Tricky part will be getting the enlarger in perfect line.

Pim Warnars · Sep 2, 2007

20 x 24 I mean

Suggestions for large prints

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