Suggestion choose my first camera, I need help!

NOTE: "I am not a native English speaker"

Long-exposure Leitz R and Suggestion for choose my first camera. i have many questions.....

"Hello!, my name not is John, and I not traveling in the time. But I spot nice nickname I not like made questions in the forums because you can learn more read the question made by other people around internet but Or encyclopedia I know many epic cameras exist, is sure spot the most bigger forum on internet for this question. ".

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But in finding in several days in internet about leitz R series, because I wanna buy my first camera and probably the last. Yea sure, song idiot, because in the history of photographers manufactures made many legendary cameras in the time line many brands most better than l Leizt, Pentax is a example but the price not is the problem here.


"I remember a guy say the leica are for The Richest beginners People. :-|".

Here for reference of the comment up:

• Cick 1
• Click 2

Here a list of cameras speeds:

Here is a example of data pdf for read http://wholesalephoto.com/images/pdf/SLR_Comparison_Chart.pdf

"But the point here, is I like the cosmetic aspect of the camera. I sure the Pentax no are perfect cute. But are great":

My eyes of fan of leica destroy for a moment my wisdom of the life. I am sure I am a life and photo beginner. But I love the Leica R6.2 but my eyes of fan cannot believe the leica only have 1/sec Max long exposure mode and 1/2000 Max speed and the Nikon, Canon, Minolta and Contax made most faster cameras.

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Buy I like the cosmetic o leica.



I not wanna get a nikon, or canon camera because I living in a territory the people here like stolen cameras with a bigger logo of Nikon and Canon.

I wanna a retro undercover design but a very advanced mechanical engineer camera with electronic display features in the Camera viewfinder and the Nikon F6 and Canon EOS 1V HS says, steal me go! Go! See me here. i take you soul.

Yeah i know the Minolta 9xi are a Formula one but not like the stetic features. And I never take a pictures of Combat jets I prefer driver the jets. sure Sigma and Pentax very good cameras but one more time not are for me.





Well here this my Beginner Q (Questions) for you professionals, Knowledge guys, and leica owners.

Q1: The point what is you can tell me about the B button in the leica R6.2 I can made a long exposure photos with leica R6.2 how to works the B button? Example I can made a 32 Se cons of long exposure with this button? Click-stop (B)? please explain more possible detail.

Q2: What you can tell me about of the Fujica AX-5 this are professional camera? i say are retro and classic. But i not know the original market really this camera are for professional consumer?Q3: The Contax RX II are professional camera?

Q4: The Contax N1 are professional camera?

I like but excludes branding, aesthetics little and unobserved (not have a stealth features) NOTE: No I do not want to use black tape on my camera.

• Nikon F100
• Nikon F6
• Canon EOS 1V HS
• Canon EOS 3

Q5: What you can tell me what are your recommended camera in this list for me (the list below), remember the prices of the lenses and camera no matter i wanna get the best lenses. The AF system no matter, but the electronic display in Viewfinder features like me. One more thing weight no matter I add other questions because I not know many abut of automatics cameras woks.

Yeah I forget the PENTAX LX, but i like get a rare camera. Yes I forget the Canon AE-1 but says canon and no are rare but I know are legendary. Ya! the Olympus OM-4Ti sure epic camera but are very common.





The list. of my camera options

NOTE: I wanna a professional build camera, Please choose the two of best camera with viewfinder displays for me criteria.

• Dead Link Removed
• Contax RX II
• Contax RTS II
• Contax N1
• Nikon F3/T (but in Black) you remember Sean Penn
• Fujica AX-5
• Contax S2b (Not have a viewfinder displays true?)
• Leica R6.2

Q5: The telephoto lenses of 400mm are nice for nature and sports true?

Q6: What was the first camera who obtained for Steve Mccurry?

Q7: What is Shutter Dial Lock-Release and how to works?

Q8: how to works the Exposure Compensation and that is, I like manual mode, this can help me for my manual exposures?



-"Good Lucky!"

If you live in an area where people steal Nikon and Canon, they'll love to steal a Leica! Almost all the cameras you have listed look like digital SLRs. If the problem is as bad as you say I would buy a film camera that looks as little like digital, and as worthless as possible. There are too many cameras to cover, but any 1970s and most 1980s manual + auto exposure SLRs and rangefinders fit the bill.

Putting a 400mm lens on any camera in a rough area is an invitation to theft.

I suggest decide on which lens - or lenses, are most important to you and then decide on the body.

if theft of your camera is a problem because of the brand name on it, cover the name of the camera, and any exposed chrome, with black tape. This makes it less easy to spot and less desirable to a thief because it looks like a mess.

B setting on a leica, or any other camera, allows you to take a time exposure. The Shutter stays open as long as you hold down the button when the camera is set on B.

As to which cameras are professional cameras -- they all are, if a profession uses them. Really, there is little quality difference among the cameras you list. A Pentax spotmatic will give you just as good an image as a Leica R6 and cost a heck of a lot less.

blockend said:

If you live in an area where people steal Nikon and Canon, they'll love to steal a Leica! Almost all the cameras you have listed look like digital SLRs. If the problem is as bad as you say I would buy a film camera that looks as little like digital, and as worthless as possible. There are too many cameras to cover, but any 1970s and most 1980s manual + auto exposure SLRs and rangefinders fit the bill.

Putting a 400mm lens on any camera in a rough area is an invitation to theft.

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Well if you say me this maybe i can take a Contax RTS II, are the most modern camera in my list.
I hmm, you say the people can stolen leica slr, i listen the zeiss are great lenses. and i speak abaut the 400mm lenses for land scape i living in south america here a jungle, i aks for the 400mm i can take good pictures of the birds and other animals in in grassland areas?

Les Sarile said:

I suggest decide on what which lens - or lenses, are most important to you and then decide on the body.

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I sure i wanna use a zeiss lenses, i listen are more good what leica, and have a great Contax Carl Zeiss Mirotar T* 500mm F/8 and Zeiss Tele-Tessar 300mm f/4 T*. but i see leica lenses are rare and have less quality vs Zeiss in SLR leica have a Leica MR Telyt R 500 mm f/8.0.

the most important for me are the telephoto lenses for landscape because the short lenses are easy to get what you can say guys? i not like nikon lenses, are the most hard to get and not have a perfect quality (Speak about tele lenses in prime).

How about a pinhole camera?

cliveh said:

How about a pinhole camera?

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Hahah nice joking. but not have tele and not have a accessories, this a good example of you answer P-Sharan Wide 35.
I wanna my camera for landscapes, maybe i spot for the Contax RTS II not look a toy but are retro. thaks for you repley mand i think the people not reply my questions but are faster looks i have 3 comments in short time and one joking. NICE!
.

The R6.2 was the last mechanical Leica SLR made, so battery was only for the meter.

The B function can give an exposure as long as you're willing to hold or lock the shutter button down.
There's a decent review on the photoethnology. Nakamura seems far less opinionated than Rockwell but it looks like
information from the R 6.2 user manual.
The finder information is flash ready light, exposure(LED) aperture and shutter speed.

A lot of nature/sports photography is done with long lenses.
Shutter dial lock release allows you to change speeds, I assume it can also lock a selected speed.
Exposure compensation allows for you to select over or under exposure deviating from a selected ISO.

There is a lot of traffic on this site and sometimes well meaning advice doesn't come across so well in print.
I've sold Leicas to beginners because that's what they wanted. It worked very well for them.

IMO, The operation of the 6.2 is as basic as a K1000 and a good but expensive camera. Ergonomics and appearance is
strictly YOUR decision.
The Contax cameras were nice but without checking I can't remember which were strictly manual. RTS maybe?

John Koehrer said:

The R6.2 was the last mechanical Leica SLR made, so battery was only for the meter.

The B function can give an exposure as long as you're willing to hold or lock the shutter button down.
There's a decent review on the photoethnology. Nakamura seems far less opinionated than Rockwell but it looks like
information from the R 6.2 user manual.
The finder information is flash ready light, exposure(LED) aperture and shutter speed.

A lot of nature/sports photography is done with long lenses.
Shutter dial lock release allows you to change speeds, I assume it can also lock a selected speed.
Exposure compensation allows for you to select over or under exposure deviating from a selected ISO.

There is a lot of traffic on this site and sometimes well meaning advice doesn't come across so well in print.
I've sold Leicas to beginners because that's what they wanted. It worked very well for them.

IMO, The operation of the 6.2 is as basic as a K1000 and a good but expensive camera. Ergonomics and appearance is
strictly YOUR decision.
The Contax cameras were nice but without checking I can't remember which were strictly manual. RTS maybe?

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Song good, but what you can't tell me about the lenses, are true the leica r have a color saturation? that lenses are more modern quality. i think are hard chose for me, up says a retro camera looks, is hard for me chose the lenses. if the lens are zeiss the camera are the Contax RTS series, or Leica lenses Leica R6.2.

BTW, if you like Contax RTS then perhaps you can look into the well reviewed Yashica FR/FR I and Yashica lenses as they are interchangeable with the Contax. You can then upgrade lens and/or body to Contax as you like.

I shot Contax for many years. Photographers knew what I was shooting but the general public had never heard of it. People thought I had a cheap no name camera.

Leica are known to be expensive, but it's the rangefinders: M3 for example. M2 is a very nice user with 35mm f/2 Summicron or 50mm Summicron. That's if money is no object and you want to start right.

The R series Leica SLR seem to not be exciting to collectors. They aren't that expensive. And I haven't handled any R series Leica so I don't know if they gaffed when they came out with SLR, or if their rangefinders were just so amazing that there was no way to surpass that. The M2 deserves its reputation for those who appreciate mechanical cameras.

For 35mm SLR I have experience with so I prefer Pentax Spotmatic (screw mount) and Olympus OM. I don't feel I made a bad choice, and if I were to start over again, I would choose the Pentax SL and 35mm f/2 Super Takumar (the one with 67mm filter ring). For Olympus OM I would choose OM-1 (including variations on OM-1 like OM-1MD and OM-1N). For lenses I would choose 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/2. I hope it's not a lot of money but probably not cheap.

An interesting camera choice is the Canonet QL-17GIII. You could have it stolen and just go out and buy another one. It's quite capable, small and usable.

You'll notice I chose mostly mechanical cameras, these may need light meters to go with them. I enjoy using light meters separately from cameras and so I want a camera that it is easy to set the f/stop and shutter speed.

Good luck with your choice.

Get a Pentax P30t or P30n

They don't look special, the collectors aren't interested so they're cheap. But under the plastic and rubber trim they're all metal, so they don't creak or flex or feel nasty to use. I've handled a few cheap SLRs which worried me that something was about to break, never felt that with a P30.

You can use any K-mount film lens on them, and you'll get the same results as you would with that lens on a far more expensive body. The light meter and shutter are accurate and the film compartment was designed to be light-tight without foam seals.

If you want a rangefinder then look at the Soviet-made FEDs. I have a FED II which I've put a couple of films through, evidently I have a good one as it works perfectly on all speeds and the focusing is accurate. Obviously it won't be as fine as a Leica but it's surprisingly quiet and smooth in operation, for £30 I'm happy with it.

"Well i read all comments, and are very nice hope, and i take a decision for my first camera as well spot two cameras depends on situation. a guy up say me the most important are the lens i wanna use in my camera and i sure the most common have the comments of the people here are all speak very good of Pentax (Carl Zeiss technology)."

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I take a moment with the calculator. and for the price of leica R and leica lenses types i wanna get. the common sense say.

Come ON!, For the price a leica R complete lenses set, you can buy tickets for travel many travels and take awesome pictures and build a custom motor bike. i living in South america here is easy take a natural aventure.
Yeah, for the price of a single leica i can buy Contax collection cameras and Yashica camera and many lenses. includes my favorites Zeiss lenses and have a extra money for build my super bike and take a travel for learning.



Well boys based in all comments. i take this. i move out ragefinder
if you say get a cheap camera looks my election guys. i avoild rangefinder camera because cannot see i get in the picture.

How old is christopher walken as of december 2013


Contax RTS (Upgrade later) have the same viewfinder coverage the leica R6.2 LOL! :munch: (But leica still a god camera but is more good use your common sense)
Well first camera Yashica FR and lenses.


Yashica FR (buy now)
I think the collector have the blame the peple wanna take pictures out cannot get acces to the cameras.

Well here a list of my new lot of lenses are very budget lenses thanks to (there was a url link here which no longer exists)


Learning pack "is very flexible and have many options for many situations"

• Yashica FR
• Yashica Winder Motor Drive
• Yashica Contax right angle viewfinder
• Yashica Eyecup
• Yashica Data Back
• Yahica Relsae Cable
• A544 battery or PX28A
• Yashica ML 50mm f/1.4
• Tele tessar T* f/4 300mm
• Yashica ML 500mm f/5.6
• Lomography XPro 200 ISO 35mm 3x10 Pack
• Fuji Superia 400 Lot
• Kodak Portra 400 x5
• Kodachrome 64 x2
• Slim tripod http://www.manfrotto.com

NOTE: The longer lens are only for sport and landscape is obviously i no stay with longer lenses in the street see this vídeo


[video=youtube;SDk5EfPAxoY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDk5EfPAxoY[/video]

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How about the Minolta SRT series? Well made with good lenses available for reasonable prices. At least the prices are reasonable if you stay away from cult lenses like the Rokkor 85mm f1.7 and other high speed lenses in the product line. A SRT 201 with a 50mm f1.7 standard lens should not set you back more than $100 in excellent condition.

John Titor said:

Well first camera Yashica FR and lenses.


Yashica FR (buy now)

Well here a list of my new lot of lenses are very budget lenses thanks to (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

• Yashica FR
• Yashica Winder Motor Drive
• Yashica Contax right angle viewfinder
• Yashica Eyecup
• Yashica Data Back
• Yahica Relsae Cable
• A544 battery or PX28A
• Yashica ML 50mm f/1.4
• Tele tessar T* f/4 300mm
• Yashica ML 500mm f/5.6
• Lomography XPro 200 ISO 35mm 3x10 Pack
• Fuji Superia 400 Lot
• Kodak Portra 400 x5
• Kodachrome 64 x2
• Slim tripod http://www.manfrotto.com

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The Yashica FR was well reviewed in Popular Photography Sept 1977 magazine - as well as the Yashica lenses.



From your list, Kodachrome can no longer be processed normally.
Since you are not using extremely fine and sharp film - like Fuji Velvia RVP50, you will not be able to tell the quality of the best lenses.

John Titor said:

Come ON!, For the price a leica R complete lenses set, you can buy tickets for travel many travels and take awesome pictures and build a custom motor bike. i living in South america here is easy take a natural aventure.

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I am peruvian and speak fluent spanish. If you want i can translate your original question to english, because I don't understand it completely. I can also understand portuguese.

Soy peruano y hablo español fluido, si gustas, puedes escribir tu pregunta en español y la traduciré, porque no entiendo completamente lo que escribiste al inicio. Tambien puedo entender portugés.

Les Sarile said:

The Yashica FR was well reviewed in Popular Photography Sept 1977 magazine - as well as the Yashica lenses.
From your list, Kodachrome can no longer be processed normally. Since you are not using extremely fine and sharp film - like Fuji Velvia RVP50, you will not be able to tell the quality of the best lenses.

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Speak about the camera, one guy say in the forum and take pictures of the FR. you can believe find the FR in the trash, the encyclopedia says the FR are the little brother yeah have the same shutter i read the manuals of the FR and Contax RTS and the two cameras can working in +45"c to -10"c WOW! (temperature degree)
Hey les this forums surprise my expectations (Apug.org)

and see
the complete history here: http://photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00ZuuX



Yeah the codak chrome is only for personal and history prepuce, but with hard working the codak chrome can still legendary quality.

Here is a location for kodachrome film processing and other expired films.
but because are hard and and take more time for processing and restore.

is sure i shoot a non-expire film o films can made standard processing



One lab in Canada and other with international locations.


In internet you can fin more labs but i not sure about the real quality of the other labs

• http://www.cariboulab.com/
• Dead Link Removed

flavio81 said:

I am peruvian and speak fluent spanish. If you want i can translate your original question to english, because I don't understand it completely. I can also understand portuguese.

Soy peruano y hablo español fluido, si gustas, puedes escribir tu pregunta en español y la traduciré, porque no entiendo completamente lo que escribiste al inicio. Tambien puedo entender portugés.

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Hey! Hola me sorprende su visita en este lugar.

Podría citar que mi hospedaje en este foro clásico supero mis expectativas, es muy elegante en comparación con otros lugares relativos aquellas viejas películas de 35mm.



Regresando al tema aprecio mucho su ayuda. en otros entornos seria esperado que alguien patera el trasero de un extranjero por escribir de manera inadecuada en Ingles.

Usted viene a darme una mano. Muy elegante.

Solo una cosa mas, ya todos me ayudaron previamente y tome la decision correcta sobre mi primera cámara. Comprar una Pentax RTS y una Yashica FR· con lo demas podre adquirir muchos lentes Zeiss y Yashica y me sobra para una moto nueva una gran moto.

bien esto es lo que yo quería decir en Ingles. esta allí abajo citado.

"Por el precio de una Leica R y un juego completo de lentes los cuales quiero usar, por ese precio usando mi sentido común puedo comprar tiquetes para viajar y tomar fotografías asombrosas, vivo en latino America y para mi es fácil tomar una aventura aquí incluso me quedaría dinero para adquirir una súper moto personalizada. leica es una cámara fantástica pero alguien con sentido común no usaría laica".

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Por algunos razones seria mejor comprar un RTS II o RTS III, o un RX original, que comprar un RTS I. Los RTS I tienen partes electrónicos que no se puede reparar si fallan. También el shutter en el RTS I es de tela y tiene un velocidad máximo de 1/2000. Si quieres fotografiar pájaros y otras cosas naturales como animales a una distancia larga, seria mejor tener mas velocidad, y en un ambiente tropical, seria preferable usar un shutter de metal, como en los otros. El RTS II tiene la velocidad maxima igual, 1/2000 pero el shutter es hecho de titanio. El RTS III, que es un camera de peso substantivo, tiene una velocidad maxima de 1/8000, y también tiene motor integral, q es importante si quieres sacar fotos de pájaros o otras cosas q mueven. Los RTS I y RTS II tienen motor distinto, q tiene usted q buscar. El RX no es tan rápido como el RTS III, pero también tiene motor integral, con velocidad máximo de 1/4000 y advance de pelicula 3 fps (el RTS III se puede 5).

Yo tuvo un RX antes, ahora tengo un RTS III. El RX es una maravilla en los manos - es un diseño muy ergonomico de Porsche Design. El RTS III no es tan bello como el RX, pero es tan fácil de usar.

Otro modelo para considerar es el 167 MT. Yo tuvo una pareja de cuerpos 167 MT, y les usé en las selvas de Belize para sacar fotos de los templos Maya y los pajaros y monos. Es mas barato q el RX, pero es bastante moderno, tiene motor integral de 3 fps, y un visor bien claro.

For several reasons it would be better to get an RTS II or III, or an RX, over an original RTS I. The principal reason is that the RTS I has electronic components that if they break, cannot be repaired. Also, the shutter in the RTS is cloth, with a top speed of 1/2000th of a second. If you want to photograph birds or other animals at long distances, it would be better to have a faster top shutter speed, and a metal shutter, like the others, especially in a tropical environment. The RTS II has a top speed of 1/2000th, like the RTS I, but it is made of titanium, not cloth. The RTS III, which is a bigger, heavier camera, has a top shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second, and an integral motor drive, which is important when photographing birds or other things that move. The RTS I and RTS II have a separate motor winder, which you will have to search for. The RX is not as big or heavy as the RTS III, and not quite as fast - it has a top shutter speed of 1/4000th, and a film advance of 3 frames per second (the RTS III can do 5 fps).

I had an RX before; now I have an RTS III. The RX is a marvel of ergonomic design, from Porsche Design studios. The RTS III, while not as pretty or ergonomic, is just as easy to use.

One other model you should consider is the 167 MT. I had a pair of 167MT bodies which I took with me to photograph birds and monkeys and Maya temples in the jungles of Belize. It costs less than an RX but has most of the same features, a motor winder with 3 fps and a nice clear viewfinder.

Sorry OP you don't need help. You gave us a test and I refuse to fall for it.

We are always willing to lend an opinion on what gear to buy even if we get lost in translation . . .

Chan Tran said:

Sorry OP you don't need help. You gave us a test and I refuse to fall for it.

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ehhh, if not are true i not take the time for register and finding in the forum, and try written and try more spell check. i know not are perfect. because write in your language is hard to me. i take many time in write a post this explain for what i no reply all simple questions in the post. but thaks for read man.

Les Sarile said:

We are always willing to lend an opinion on what gear to buy even if we get lost in translation . . .

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Yea i see. all read here. this post have many read in the few days and are very simply

TheFlyingCamera said:

For several reasons it would be better to get an RTS II or III, or an RX, over an original RTS I..

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your information have a very heavy valué for my future upgrade. i know the RTS III in release price in the 90s are the 3,500 usd contax are most expensive leica R sure in the old times.

Ha but the times change.

Why don't you start with something simple like a Pentax K body, an MX, a Canon FTB or a Nikon FM? All you need is a mechanical camera with lightmeter where you can control focus, aperture and shutter speed. Robust and reliable...with a good choice of lens, and all for cheap.

John Titor said:

ehhh, if not are true i not take the time for register and finding in the forum, and try written and try more spell check. i know not are perfect. because write in your language is hard to me. i take many time in write a post this explain for what i no reply all simple questions in the post. but thaks for read man.


Yea i see. all read here. this post have many read in the few days and are very simply


your information have a very heavy valué for my future upgrade. i know the RTS III in release price in the 90s are the 3,500 usd contax are most expensive leica R sure in the old times.

Ha but the times change.

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Yes, times change. I bought my RTS III a couple years ago for $450 USD.

John Titor: I use ( occasionally) R4 single lens reflex camera body, but for reduced cost, two Sigma lenses. The picture quality is extremely good, -as you would expect, when using a.n independent make of lens fitted with Leica lens mount.) . I have used the camera with Fuji Superia film, to my satisfaction.
The lenses that I own, are: Sigma 70-200mm., f/4.5 and a 28-85mm., f/3.5-4.5. Though, of course, no longer manufactured, it is worth trying to source these lenses, if only because they are usually very cheap, - my 28-85 was less than £100 and the 70-200 less than £150, UK currency.
For preference, though, when I want to use a film Leica, (rather than my digital one), I prefer a rangefinder, using the Leica IIIf, which gives me more precise focussing.


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