Well, okay, 15mL of nitric in 1 L of water is what, a ~200 mM solution? So you just make up a big bottle of that, which will be safer to work with, then you don't have to work with the concentrated stuff anymore.
You can check the math...
http://www.lgpnet.com/science/molarity.htm
Keith,
It's a bleach from the Defender / Dupont varigam toner system. . they are thiocarbamide sepia Toners.
the formula:
bleach B3
to make 1l
22g potassium ferricyanide
35g sodium chloride
15ml nitric sciences
I would think that that bleach would cause loss of highlight detail, due to the formation of AgCl and then the reverse reaction with the formation of AgNO3. This type of rehal bleach was abandoned due to that type of problem.
Perhaps hydrochloric would be a good substitute - it will make the solution acidic, and add more chloride ions and not nitrate ions so there would be no conversion to silver nitrate.
I've read that the yellow compound formed when you get nitric on your skin is related to picric acid.
Would it really do that if such an overabundance of chloride is around? And if it really did, wouldn't bisulfate do the same thing? AFAIK, b&w reversal bleach uses bisulfate plus an oxidizer for this reason.The Nitric acid is there to control the size of the grain
Would it really do that if such an overabundance of chloride is around? And if it really did, wouldn't bisulfate do the same thing? AFAIK, b&w reversal bleach uses bisulfate plus an oxidizer for this reason.
And in this fact it is very similar to nitric acid, that's exactly why I suggested it as replacement. You seem to prove my point here. Compared to nitric acid, bisulfite is a much nicer substance to store outside of a lab environment, too, and you can buy it without getting the strange "what is he going to blow up with this?" look.Bisulfate in this bleach can cause problems. You see, it forms Sulfate and Silver Sulfate can then form during the bleach. It turns out that Silver Sulfate is also quite soluble and therefore can remove some Silver image permanently.
@Ian: Note that the difference between 6B-3 and the other two bleaches is not only the nitric acid but also the halide used for rehal.
There was a thread here some time ago about chloride rehal bleach and the consensus was that chloride bleach killed the highlights in a print. Is this problem still there or was there some solution to this? Or maybe the nitric acid is the solution?Yes. I had realised that. I did try the bleaches in this toner in the late 1970's when I was working on Toners commercially. I particularly liked the chloride based bleaches for their more yellowy/orange tones.
There was a thread here some time ago about chloride rehal bleach and the consensus was that chloride bleach killed the highlights in a print. Is this problem still there or was there some solution to this? Or maybe the nitric acid is the solution?
There was a thread here some time ago about chloride rehal bleach and the consensus was that chloride bleach killed the highlights in a print. Is this problem still there or was there some solution to this? Or maybe the nitric acid is the solution?
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