Subminiature film developing

[Chuckwade87]

So I've developed my first roll of 110 film(Lomography Orca 100), in my recently acquired Nikor 16mm reel.

Mind you I've never loaded it before, not even in practice. Maybe that has some bearing on the problem.

The issue, is that I had the film stick together while loading the reel. Developer was unable to spread onto approximately 3 frames.

Not sure if there is a way to really prevent this as the film is very curved. Maybe it's just my inexperience and I'll get it in practice. But I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction.


I've used 35mm Kindermann reels without a hitch.

I loaded the reels according to the directions that came in the box. Which was to lay the reel flat on a table (Inside a changing bag), inserted film at 45 degree angle, and positioned the film end under spring clip in center of reel. I then fed the film at a 45 degree angle into the reel while rotating the reel counter clock wise.

Perhaps I didn't get the film leader centered under the spring clip, which may have caused the top of the film to curl and touch.

Also if anyone has directions to the Nikkor minox developing reel, I'm not sure what how the film is supposed to be held in the center of the reel.....

Any ideas?

 

[ic-racer]

When using metal 16mm reels, load the film with the curl outward; opposite of the spiral. So your emulsion side is outward.

 

[guangong]

When using metal 16mm reels, load the film with the curl outward; opposite of the spiral. So your emulsion side is outward.

Ditto. That should fix it. Also, a little practice would help. After all, what if there was a shot that you really wanted to print?

 

[jbrubaker]

You don't need to load the film emulsion side out. Just practice with lights on for a while to see what's happening. It's also possible that your reel has been bent and is pressig on the film in a bad way. You will be able to tell with the lights on. regards, john.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

I have found that changing bags get in the way. In addition you need to use both hands. Having the reel stationary flat on the table works against you. What ever you do praactice with some old film in the light until you get loading down correctly.

BTW most loading directions suggest that the base side of the film be outside on the reel no matter the film size 110 or 35 mm or 120.

I am unfamiliar with the Kinderman reel. If it is of the type that has only one spiral then you need to be careful that the film does not touch itself. In which case check it before loading it into the tank.

 

[bsdunek]

I hold the reel vertically and roll it along the bench as I feed in the film. I don't clip the starting end as that won't let the film center by itself. My reels are one-sided, that is, the spiral is only on one side. I angle the film so the spiral side catches first and it seems to work fine for me.
As for Minox, my reels have a little hook to take the hole in the end of the film. Then I load the same way. Don't keep too much tension on the film or it may come out of the groove and touch the previous layer, as you had happen.
Actually, I have more trouble with 35mm than 16mm and Minox, and I've been loading these reels for nearly 70 years. Some films are just plain difficult. I find Foma one of the most difficult to load, although as film goes, the negatives are fine.
Hope this helps, and as jbrubaker says, practice in the light so you can work it out.

 

[voceumana]

You can try a Yankee Clipper developing tank--plastic reel with loading from the outside--some users suggest a rubber O-ring be added to keep the two parts of the reel together if the friction fit isn't strong enough.

 

[Chuckwade87]

Thanks all for the tips!

It wasn't an important roll, really just a test. It had been in my Kodak Instamatic S-30 for a year. Half the roll shot, couldn't even remember what was on it.I finished it, to test myself and the reel.

The Kindermann 35mm reels are spiraled on both sides, and i typically hold that up vertically and feed the film in that way.

The 16mm and Minox reels meanwhile are only spiralled on one side. Which was a little odd for me.

I plan on trying to reload a 110 cartridge, so i will have to probably sacrifice a roll, so i have one as a practice piece.

I will also see how loading emulsions out and without using the center spring clip works as well.

Again thanks all!

 

[ic-racer]

only spiralled on one side. !

Exactly! You will see than when loaded emulsion side-out, there is no need for the spiral on the other side, the film spiral will look perfect.

 

[studiocarter]

Jobo 110 spiral developing reels work great to develop 5 & 1/2 feet of 16mm movie film tests. Both corners are clipped off the feed end of the film. Emulsion is always in. Never had a problem with hundreds of feet. I AM a bit obsessed with getting developing parameters correct before committing to 100 feet and 3 liters at one time!

 

[ic-racer]

Nikkor 16mm reel is different from a Jobo 16mm reel and needs to be loaded differently because it has only a single spiral.

 

[Craig75]

Nikkor 16mm reel is different from a Jobo 16mm reel and needs to be loaded differently because it has only a single spiral.
View attachment 194143

I use those reels and always emulsion in.

 

[mjork]

I use those reels and always emulsion in.

Yes, I also use these reels. Keeping the film curled as is and thus emulsion side in.
These are surprisingly easy to load once you figure out what the procedure is.

 

[ic-racer]

What I found with 16mm single perf in the Minolta cartridges, the film takes a radius of curve greater than the SS processing reel. So the unsupported side of the film curls inward and the loops touch. Could be the way I load the cartridges. I need to coil the film around a dowel about 1cm diameter to get the film in the cartridge. Of course in a movie camera the film takes a curve both ways as it goes through the camera and the outer radius of a 100' camera take-up reel is greater than the radius of the 16mm processing reels.