Stupid Question: Can Prints Be Dried in Trays?

[clayne]

I haven't set up any kind of screens and I usually just hang the fiber prints in my drying cabinet. However, I'm getting tired of the clothespin marring. Flatness isn't a big problem, though. Is it possible to dry prints in dry clean trays? The reason I ask is that it's pretty easy for me to fit these in the cabinet and avoid dust while allowing a slow dry - but I'd like to avoid prints sticking to plastic, etc.

 

[Ian Grant]

NO

They stick to the tray. Make some drying screens.

Ian

 

[clayne]

NO

They stick to the tray. Make some drying screens.

Ian

Thanks! Glad I didn't waste any.

 

[Ian Grant]

Thanks! Glad I didn't waste any.

And waste you would, they are real pigs to remove once stuck

Ian

 

[JBrunner]

I haven't set up any kind of screens and I usually just hang the fiber prints in my drying cabinet. However, I'm getting tired of the clothespin marring. Flatness isn't a big problem, though. Is it possible to dry prints in dry clean trays? The reason I ask is that it's pretty easy for me to fit these in the cabinet and avoid dust while allowing a slow dry - but I'd like to avoid prints sticking to plastic, etc.

You can dry prints in trays, but then you have to either mat and frame the tray or use a putty knife to get the print out, which makes the hanging mark thing seem pretty inconsequential. I have dried prints on cardboard (the box kind) with very good results.

 

[dancqu]

The Sticky - Getting Fiber Base Paper Flat at ....

Read there my and other's posts on the
subject. I use the corrugated board method
and employ not absorbent blotter separators
but a polyester sheeting which is hydrophobic.
In effect it is water proof.

The board and sheeting cost nearly nothing.
A stack when built weighs very few pounds.
Easy to stow out of the way. When in use it
must be weighted on top.

If done correctly, Dry and Flat in one move.
A slow gentile dry. Dan

 

[BobNewYork]

........A slow gentile dry. Dan

As opposed to a Jewish dry? Sorry someone had to - and, of course it would be me !!

Bob H

 

[dancqu]

The Sticky - Getting Fiber Base Paper Flat at ....

... B&W film, paper, chemistry

Read there my and other's posts on the
subject. I use the corrugated board method
and employ not blotters but non absorbent
separators of polyester sheeting.

The board and sheeting cost nearly nothing.
A stack when built weighs very few pounds.
Easy to stow out of the way. When in use
it must be weighted on top.

If done correctly, Dry and Flat in one move.
A slow gentile dry. Dan

 

[michaelbsc]

This sounds interesting. I have one of the "blotter books" that, in my mind, was a waste fo money. Looked like it would work, but isn't as effective as I expected.

What kind of sheeting do you use? Would wax paper work just as well?

 

[dancqu]

This sounds interesting. I have one of the "blotter books" that,
in my mind, was a waste fo money. Looked like it would work,
but isn't as effective as I expected.

What kind of sheeting do you use?

The corrugated board stack dryer builds with board on bottom
then separator, print, separator, print, separator, and last
a board. The separator material I've found to work well
is Pellon 70; a hydrophobic non-woven polyester.
Available at fabric shop as interfacing.

So, some corrugated board, $3.00 of interfacing and you've
all thats needed for dry and flat in one move. Allow for
several days to dry. A slow, gentile dry. Dan

 

[michaelbsc]

The corrugated board stack dryer builds with board on bottom
then separator, print, separator, print, separator, and last
a board. The separator material I've found to work well
is Pellon 70; a hydrophobic non-woven polyester.
Available at fabric shop as interfacing.

So, some corrugated board, $3.00 of interfacing and you've
all thats needed for dry and flat in one move. Allow for
several days to dry. A slow, gentile dry. Dan

So, if I have 15 prints to dry, I'll need a piece of cardboard for the top of the stack, the bottom of the stack, and between each print/seperator pile? 16 cardboards total?

Or, by the description, I should stack more than one print/seperator pile beween two cardboards?

Michael

 

[JBrunner]

So, if I have 15 prints to dry, I'll need a piece of cardboard for the top of the stack, the bottom of the stack, and between each print/seperator pile? 16 cardboards total?

Or, by the description, I should stack more than one print/seperator pile beween two cardboards?

Michael

I don't usually use separators fwiw, I use a large screen, (or large piece of cardboard when I was doing it that way) and don't stack the prints. There are lots of ways to do it, and varying methods to flatten. You might want to check out the sticky thread on getting fiber prints flat, it has lots of information you may find useful.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[dancqu]

CORRUGATED

So, if I have 15 prints to dry, I'll need a piece of
cardboard for the top of the stack, the bottom of
the stack, and between each print/seperator
pile? 16 cardboards total?

Or, by the description, I should stack more than
one print/seperator pile beween two
cardboards? Michael

That's right, double up twixt the CORRUGATED boards.
On bottom a board then separator, prints, separator,
prints, separator, board; arriving, it may be said
at a new bottom. And so the stack is built.

Not for ever one. I usually quick dry on a screen. When
there are enough prints I re-wet, sponge dry, and build
the stack. Off course I could take prints fresh out of
the wash, sponge dry and stack. I do few prints in
any one session so let them accumulate.

Print emulsions should face each other through the
separator. For ripple free print edges the prints should
be about 2 inches within the open flute edges of the
CORRUGATED board. So, the maximum 20 inch
wide separator material will do up to 16 x ?

Two 8x10s EACH layer length wise will need a stack
12x22. Width wise, 14x18. It's how you cut it. Take
note of the open flutes; more margin. Dan