Stupid Mistake: Shot Legacy Pro 100 at 400

I did a stupid and accidentally shot a roll of Legacy Pro 100 at 400. I thought I was putting 400 in the camera but I wasn't paying attention and loaded 100 instead.

Fuji only publishes push process times for 100 pushed to 200 but not 100 pushed to 400.

How should I attack this?

1) Try to push to 400 and take the lumps? (Too much contrast, grain and loss of mids.)
2) Develop as-is and accept the fact that everything will be two stops under?
3) Push to 200 and split the difference?

If we are going to push to 400, what is the development time?
Maybe use another dilution? (Just a guess.)

The developers I have on-hand are D-76 and HC-110.

Any ideas?

According to the MDC, both the 100 and 400 show almost the same time for D-76 stock, 100/7.25 mins, and 400/7.5 mins. and HC-110 shows half a minute longer for 100, 5.5 mins and 5 mins for 400 , both using dilution B.--hmmmm.....

What was the light like when you shot the film? Was contrast high with shadows that you want detail in, or was the light flat?

The light was fair to middling. Mostly cloudy, overcast days with bright spots. The last few were shot late afternoon, early evening with partly cloudy skies but not direct sun. That's why I was shooting 400... or at least why I THOUGHT I was shooting 400, until I went to reload and discovered that the cassette was marked 100. (S-Word!)

Isn't the 100 LP Acros?
I've never shot the LP100 but do shoot tons of LP400 and in D76 1+1 I can easily get a full box speed and it pushes to 800 real easy.

I've seen Acros 100 (if indeed LP100 is Acros) compared to TMY so I doubt it will push very well.
Looks like you may have to live with empty shadows.

Get diafine. I shoot LP100 and acros at 200 (or 160 depending on light) and soup it in diafine with 5+5 instead of the usual 3+3 (I only do this with acros, it's printed on the package for diafine). I'm pretty sure you'll get something printable at 400 too.

I'm pretty sure I accidentally shot this with acros at 320:

When I realized I used the wrong film I assumed I was pretty well screwed.

At this point, I'm happy getting something instead of nothing. What's the "least bad" option?

I've been looking at Fuji's datasheets.
From there, I can tell that they recommend Neopan Acros 100 can be pushed to 200 by developing in D-76, full strength, for 10 minutes as opposed to the normal 7-1/4.

Wouldn't that be the "least bad" option so far?

I'd end up being, for all intents, a stop under. Right?
Even if the contrast and shadow aren't right, I should get something I can print through. Shouldn't I?

I think you are on the right path. If it were mine, I'd run it through Pyrocat-HD for 15 mins at 1+1+100 and agitate the whoopies out of it(4 or 5 inversions every 30 sec, and 1 full minute to start). Pyro negatives print very well even if a little thin.

Hmmm... Over agitate. That's something to think about.

BTW: Pyrocat or Diafine would have to be ordered on-line. There are no stores in Erie, PA that sell these things.
D-76 is all I can get with any predictability. Occasionally, I can get XTOL but I have to wait until the college courses start putting in their supply orders to get things like that.

D-76 is my primary developer but, if I could predictably get XTOL it would be a toss-up for me. I like both.
HC-110 is my backup developer, primarily because it comes as syrup that I can mix up, on the spot, in any dilution I need but, also because it keeps for a long time so, in case I'm out of the other, I have something to use in an emergency.

I would be willing to travel within the Cleveland, OH -- Buffalo, NY -- Pittsburgh, PA triangle to buy photo supplies.
I've looked on-line to see if there are any REAL photo stores in this area but my Google searches turned up only a few vague possibilities. It wouldn't be worth the gas money to make such a trip and come home empty handed.

Any suggestions on that front?

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

If you had some Rodinal, and especially if the light was contrasty, you could stand-develop it (1+100, 1 hr.) and the film ISO wouldn't really matter. I've heard of doing stand dev with highly diluted either D-76 or HC-110, but I've never used them for it and so I don't have any information for you on that.

I'd overdevelop 1.75x to 2x with a soft developer. D-23 is a good choice.

Yes, it is Acros.

Worker 11811 said:

The light was fair to middling. Mostly cloudy, overcast days with bright spots. The last few were shot late afternoon, early evening with partly cloudy skies but not direct sun. That's why I was shooting 400... or at least why I THOUGHT I was shooting 400, until I went to reload and discovered that the cassette was marked 100. (S-Word!)

Click to expand...

So this tells me two things:

1) your subject probably had relatively low contrast overall; and
2) your shadow detail was probably reasonably well up off the toe of the curve.

From that I infer that the negatives should be suitable for push processing.

I would suggest increasing your development time by a factor of 2 - 2.25.

I did the same exact thing when I mixed up my 400 speed and 100 speed film labeling. I developed slightly longer than normal in Xtol 1+1. The pictures came out fine.