Stupid mistake: need to develop for unknown film speed

[naugastyle]

So I shot two rolls of Neopan 400 at 400 and two rolls at 3200 and forgot to label one of the 3200 rolls. Unfortunately, this was for a project but hopefully won't be considered end of the world if I can't figure out which is which.

I took a chance and developed the one roll that I knew for certain was 3200 along with a random roll. Incorrect guess on the second roll, although some of the shots are salvageable.

So for the last two rolls, I decided to sacrifice a few shots rather than another whole roll. Took one and clipped off a few frames to do a developing test at 3200. The previous 400 roll definitely had clear images (just crappy ones) when pushed to 3200. But the clips of film--tried it twice--are showing almost nothing. I basically still can't tell which roll this is.

"Almost" nothing means there's a slight difference in appearance in where the frames should be vs. the unexposed leader, but no clear frame edges or image.

Since I've never tried this before, I'm just wondering if I'm doing it wrong. I have a Paterson tank. If I just throw the clip into tank without putting it on a reel, does enough light get in while pouring in developer and fixer to completely ruin the test? Er, because that's what I was doing. Or is there some other reason why this might not work? Do I simply need to take the plunge and use a longer clip to wrap around a reel?

I guess my only other option is try developing somewhere between 800 and 1600 for the next two together and average out the problems...but I was hoping not to do that.

 

[edp]

As long as you've got all the bits of the tank to make a light trap, it's light tight. The reel isn't part of the light trap, but the tube down the middle is.

Did you get edge markings on the film?

 

[average-guy]

You could look into developing the two rolls in Diafine, it's a speed compensating developer. You can develop two rolls film with different speeds in the same tank. It works great with Kodak Tri-x but I have never shot or developed Neopan. You might try Google-ing Neopan and Diafine and I bet you'd come up with resources and advice to fit your needs.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Option 1:

This is a perfect opportunity to try standing development with dilute Rodinal.

The exposure values between the two rolls will even out significantly due to more rapid developer exhaustion in the normally exposed roll of film.

Mix Rodinal 1+100. Agitate by inversion for the complete first minute, give the tank a good couple of whacks on the counter top, and set it down for one hour.

Stop and fix as normal.

This isn't fool proof, and there are no guarantees.​

Option 2:

Take one more clip test.​

Option 3:

Develop the film according to EI 1250 or so.​

If it were me I'd probably do option 1.

 

[glbeas]

I second the stand developing. It's a very good way to get the best out of any uncertain exposure.

 

[removed account4]

hi nancy

what developer are you using,
do you have any (dektol) print developer ?

john

 

[naugastyle]

Dammit, I'm an idiot and left the tube out both times. Sigh. That light works damn fast. So I guess I could try sacrificing a bit from the other roll now and do the test again. Grrr.

I'm currently living in small-town Thailand and only have XTOL and D76. Stand processing is only possible with Rodinal, right?

 

[Helinophoto]

It is also possible with caffenol, but caffenol.blogspot.com doesn't list neopan 400, only 1600.
From the Scandinavian caffenol group, the results with neopan 400 in a 70 min stand development in caffenol (5 minute pre-wetting) are very promising, the author said the film, shot at 800, might just as well been shot at 1000-1200.

He processed the films for scanning.

He used the recipe for caffenol-c-l for some reason, the recipe is here and requires (cheap instant) coffee, washing soda, ascorbic acid, water and potassium bromide (around 1 gram of potassium bromide should suffice).
You can get everything but the coffee and water at the pharmacy, you'll not need much ascorbic acid or potassium bromide, so making it shouldn't cost much. The washing soda is usually found in the detergent section in a regular super marked, possibly also at the pharmacy, make sure you get a water-free one. (heating it up in the oven and checking for weight loss is the best way to check that).

http://caffenol.blogspot.com/2010/08/recipes.html

As far as I've seen, caffenol do have some weird properties (with some films!), that stand dev actually develops the photos equally, even if the frames on the same roll was shot at EI400, EI800, EI1000 and EI1600...but do some searching and see if anyone has tried it, don't pay attention to American recipes for caffenol, with their teaspoons and pinches, use the one provided, it's grams, litres and pretty much standardized and easy to make without mistakes.

If I was in your situation, I would actually try a Caffenol stand like this before Rodinal, but that's just me

 

[removed account4]

hi nancy

you might just process your film in what you can find ( d76 )
for the time recommended for pushing your film to 1600 ....

good luck !
john

ps caffenol would work too, but some places ingredients are expensive and hard to find ...
or labeled one thing when they are another ...

 

[naugastyle]

Thanks for the advice, everyone! I am kicking myself about the Rodinal, I did want to bring it but in the last hectic days of moving out of the country I misplaced it somewhere.