Studio on a Shoestring

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

Hey, I'm wondering if anyone could give me some advice here. I've recently begun (alright, to be honest I've done one session) to do photoshoots with models. The shoot I've done was scheduled to be an outdoor shoot, but the weather decided to turn prohibitively cold on us last minute. We managed to get some good shots in, but not only was the poor model freezing after shooting only a roll and a half of film, but my poor trigger finger was starting to feel frostbit.

I suggested we go back to the building I live in (which was only just around the corner from the park we'd been shooting in) and see if the building's community center was free. It was, and we finished the shoot there. I managed to get a few good shots out of the 3 rolls of film I used there, but overall, the lighting conditions of the room were pretty piss poor (pardon the language), as I've yet to free up enough money in my budget for a good lighting setup.

Money's a bit of an issue here, since I'm just starting out and my wife would kill me if I drained our meagre savings for something that is mostly on the hobby level right now.

My question is, does anyone have any suggestions for places to use for photo shoots when you have no access to a formal studio? I've tried looking around my area for anyplace that would rent access to their studio fascilities, but I've not been able to find anything. Are there other alternatives other than being confined to bad lighting conditions or reliant on good weather for outdoor/location shoots?

Monophoto · Mar 9, 2006

Often, the simplest lighting is the best lighting. Find a spot next to a window - it could be in your apartment, at the public library, in Starbucks - - -. The soft, directional light through a window can't be beat. If the shadows are a bit dense, throw in a reflector as fill. You can purchase a purpose-built round reflector, or you can use a sheet of foam-core or mat board.

After you master that kind of lighting, you can think about spending serious money on lights. But you may find that you like the results so much that you choose to stay with the simple stuff.

Here's an example - our dining room, window light, a reflector to camera-left.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

Monophoto said:
Often, the simplest lighting is the best lighting. Find a spot next to a window - it could be in your apartment, at the public library, in Starbucks - - -. The soft, directional light through a window can't be beat. If the shadows are a bit dense, throw in a reflector as fill. You can purchase a purpose-built round reflector, or you can use a sheet of foam-core or mat board.

After you master that kind of lighting, you can think about spending serious money on lights. But you may find that you like the results so much that you choose to stay with the simple stuff.

Here's an example - our dining room, window light, a reflector to camera-left.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

It wouldn't let me see the image since I'm not a subscriber. I do agree with you that natural light is some of the best lighting you can get. When I learned photography back in highschool, that's all we were allowed to use. Like I said, I did manage to get some really good shots from that one shoot.

Here, take a look http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e16/Aeislugh/Jehmela/44bd8054.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e16/Aeislugh/Jehmela/e22d12c5.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e16/Aeislugh/Jehmela/4928a40d.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e16/Aeislugh/Jehmela/ab4ad5af.jpg

Or hell, just browse the whole album http://photobucket.com/albums/e16/Aeislugh/Jehmela/

My biggest problems in the shoot was forgetting to compensate for direct backlight, and the gods aweful colour of paint on the walls. I ended up having to *gasp* photoshop some of them to take out the ugly pink colour.

TheFlyingCamera · Mar 9, 2006

While I do have lighting equipment, and pretty good lights at that, I am very space-constrained as real estate prices in the Washington DC area are prohibitive. I set up in my dining room - just take out the tables and chairs, put them in the hall and the kitchen, and voila- working studio. Of course I'd love it if my space had ceilings about three feet higher, and was about six feet wider and six feet longer, but that's only another $100K on the mortgage

It doesn't require a formal studio to set up and work - just a bit of creativity. If you're shooting color, you will need to work with either natural daylight or with strobe. If you're doing a lot of black-and-white, you can get some inexpensive photofloods that will do nicely for studio lights. Look at Smith-Victors for quality lights that will last, but won't set you back too much. If you want to keep it really cheap, you can get reflectors and clip-on sockets that will handle up to 250 w bulbs for about $30 apiece. Just remember to get a set of oven mitts to keep around with any hotlights, as they deserve their name. I once temporarily removed my thumbprint when adjusting built-in barndoors on a set of quartz hotlights that had been on for just five minutes.

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

TheFlyingCamera said:
While I do have lighting equipment, and pretty good lights at that, I am very space-constrained as real estate prices in the Washington DC area are prohibitive. I set up in my dining room - just take out the tables and chairs, put them in the hall and the kitchen, and voila- working studio. Of course I'd love it if my space had ceilings about three feet higher, and was about six feet wider and six feet longer, but that's only another $100K on the mortgage

It doesn't require a formal studio to set up and work - just a bit of creativity. If you're shooting color, you will need to work with either natural daylight or with strobe. If you're doing a lot of black-and-white, you can get some inexpensive photofloods that will do nicely for studio lights. Look at Smith-Victors for quality lights that will last, but won't set you back too much. If you want to keep it really cheap, you can get reflectors and clip-on sockets that will handle up to 250 w bulbs for about $30 apiece. Just remember to get a set of oven mitts to keep around with any hotlights, as they deserve their name. I once temporarily removed my thumbprint when adjusting built-in barndoors on a set of quartz hotlights that had been on for just five minutes.

My old apartment would have been pretty good for use as a studio. If I just moved a couple of chairs and set up a backdrop against the one wall in the living room, I'd have been set. The room at 12 foot ceilings (a bugger to heat when you pay the electric bill and its baseboard heaters) and was a good 40x20 feet. We moved because of it being a slum and because the electric bill was just NUTS.

I shouldn't have too much of a problem using the community room as a studio (as long as I book it ahead). it's just partially below ground level so the lighting is pretty weird to work with at times. Have you, or anyone else for that matter, had any luck with a jury rigged lighting setup using a simple incancescant lightbulb fixture, a 120 watt bulb and something to clamp it onto? I know 200 or better watts is ideal, but would it do in a pinch?

TheFlyingCamera · Mar 9, 2006

AeisLugh said:
Have you, or anyone else for that matter, had any luck with a jury rigged lighting setup using a simple incancescant lightbulb fixture, a 120 watt bulb and something to clamp it onto? I know 200 or better watts is ideal, but would it do in a pinch?

You can work with a 120 watt bulb, but the downside is VERY slow exposure times with anything other than high-speed films. A 120 watt bulb will get you something in the order of f4 @1/15th at 6 feet @ ISO 100, which is a devil to hand-hold, and pretty hard on the model to get them to stand still for it too. As long as you don't have to pay the community room electric bill, you could probably get away with a 500 w flood without tripping the circuit breakers. The other, related problem with the 120 w bulb is that in order to illuminate a model full-length, you're going to have to get your light source MORE than 6 feet away, and you're probably going to want to use some kind of diffusion on that light source so you don't create strong chiaroscuro effects. The diffusion will cut at least another stop from your light, maybe 2. So, between the increase in distance and the loss from the diffusion, you're down to around F2-2.8@ 1/8th with that 120 w bulb at ISO 100.
If that's all you have, then you CAN work with it if you shoot 400 speed film.
What format are you shooting?

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

TheFlyingCamera said:
You can work with a 120 watt bulb, but the downside is VERY slow exposure times with anything other than high-speed films. A 120 watt bulb will get you something in the order of f4 @1/15th at 6 feet @ ISO 100, which is a devil to hand-hold, and pretty hard on the model to get them to stand still for it too. As long as you don't have to pay the community room electric bill, you could probably get away with a 500 w flood without tripping the circuit breakers. The other, related problem with the 120 w bulb is that in order to illuminate a model full-length, you're going to have to get your light source MORE than 6 feet away, and you're probably going to want to use some kind of diffusion on that light source so you don't create strong chiaroscuro effects. The diffusion will cut at least another stop from your light, maybe 2. So, between the increase in distance and the loss from the diffusion, you're down to around F2-2.8@ 1/8th with that 120 w bulb at ISO 100.
If that's all you have, then you CAN work with it if you shoot 400 speed film.
What format are you shooting?

I'm using a 35mm camera. no, I won't have to pay the lighting bill on the community room as long as it doesn't become excessive. I imagine 3 hour shoot every couple of weeks or so isn't going to jack the bill so much that they'd notice.

TheFlyingCamera · Mar 9, 2006

AeisLugh said:
I'm using a 35mm camera. no, I won't have to pay the lighting bill on the community room as long as it doesn't become excessive. I imagine 3 hour shoot every couple of weeks or so isn't going to jack the bill so much that they'd notice.

Then get a decent 250-500w flood. I'd use a tripod, and test your results out in that environment with a dummy subject- burn a roll or two on your wife or any other willing victim to see what your actual parameters will be. When you have some results, post a few here so we can see what you're coming up with.

wfe · Mar 9, 2006

I don't do much studio work as I prefer natural light however I have a set of hot lights and have made some very nice photographs with them and they don't cost a lot.

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

TheFlyingCamera said:
Then get a decent 250-500w flood. I'd use a tripod, and test your results out in that environment with a dummy subject- burn a roll or two on your wife or any other willing victim to see what your actual parameters will be. When you have some results, post a few here so we can see what you're coming up with.

tripod for the camera or for the lights?

Mark H · Mar 9, 2006

When I started shooting models I was using a low-budget set-up in a friend's basement. One light and reflector. The Smith-Victor lights are a good, cheap way to start. I moved up to a Lowell 1000w (still relatively inexpensive). I use a tripod for the camera and light stands for the lights...light stands can be had fairly inexpensively (though I guess that's always a relative phrase).
I used Ilford XP2 Super, a chromogenic B&W film, because it has great latitude. Even with that, handheld shooting wasn't practical.
Here are links to two shots done in a small basement area ( i hope this works):

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

Mark H said:
When I started shooting models I was using a low-budget set-up in a friend's basement. One light and reflector. The Smith-Victor lights are a good, cheap way to start. I moved up to a Lowell 1000w (still relatively inexpensive). I use a tripod for the camera and light stands for the lights...light stands can be had fairly inexpensively (though I guess that's always a relative phrase).
I used Ilford XP2 Super, a chromogenic B&W film, because it has great latitude. Even with that, handheld shooting wasn't practical.
Here are links to two shots done in a small basement area ( i hope this works):

See, that's something else I need to pick up, a decent tripod. I have one, but the one clamp on it snapped because I took it out in the cold and put a bit to much pressure on the adjustment handle. I'll start looking for those lights though. Thanks for the advice. I'm already planning on building myself a bit of a backdrop stand so I can disguise the room a bit.

rbarker · Mar 9, 2006

Inexpensive "shop" lights from the hardware store can work OK for B&W. Many stores still carry the clamp-on lights with large aluminum reflectors that are essentially the same as the Smith-Victor sets for several times the price. Standard "reflector flood" bulbs can also be used. For daylight-balanced color film, however, you'll need the appropriate filter on the lens, which cuts the exposure even more.

I think my suggestion would be to work more with the window light, but add a large reflector panel or two in order to get some fill. Moving the subject a bit farther away from the window will also make it easier to balance the light values. That will also allow you to exclude the window itself from the image, giving you more flexibility.

White foam core panels from the art or office supply store work well as reflector panels. Also, try gluing crumpled, but re-flattened aluminum foil on one side of the foam core panel. That will give you a bit higher reflectance, and a bit more specular fill, but will avoid hot spots in the fill light.

If you're handy with tools, try drilling a hole in a 6" square piece of 1/4" plywood, and cut a 6" long piece of wooden dowel to glue in the hole. That will let you tape the wooden plate on the back of the reflector panel so it can be positioned more accurately when clamped to a stand or the back of a chair. Take a look at the "Baby Plates" and "Hollywood Arms" on the Matthews Grip site (http://www.matthewsgrip.com/), and then build something similar with dowels and wooden plates.

glbeas · Mar 9, 2006

Bouncing your floods off the foamcore panels will also soften the light. Also you can get some sheer white curtain and shine the light through it for a partial diffusion, adding more layers as needed. Just be sure and give the lamp some breathing room so as not to set the curtains on fire. Check out Home Depot for some work lights, you can buy them on stands and they are pretty powerful, using the quartz halogen tubes.

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

glbeas said:
Bouncing your floods off the foamcore panels will also soften the light. Also you can get some sheer white curtain and shine the light through it for a partial diffusion, adding more layers as needed. Just be sure and give the lamp some breathing room so as not to set the curtains on fire. Check out Home Depot for some work lights, you can buy them on stands and they are pretty powerful, using the quartz halogen tubes.

are they more or less expensive then buying hotlights made specifically for photography?

Mark H · Mar 9, 2006

The Home Depot setup is less expensive, but I think you may find that the photo lights will give you the opportunity to add attachments (barndoors, diffusers, honeycombs, etc.) that can make life simpler. And the little bit of extra money just gives a more "professional" look, which can be satisfying. And may help models feel more like professionals.
Speaking of tripods, I spent quite a bit of money on the chain-store camera/video shop tripods thinking they would be OK. When I eventually bought a Bogen (Manfrotto) tripod, it was a leap to a whole other plane. At least check out a good quality tripod to see the difference.
So here I am spending more and more money for you, what with new lights, light stands, and tripod!

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

Mark H said:
The Home Depot setup is less expensive, but I think you may find that the photo lights will give you the opportunity to add attachments (barndoors, diffusers, honeycombs, etc.) that can make life simpler. And the little bit of extra money just gives a more "professional" look, which can be satisfying. And may help models feel more like professionals.
Speaking of tripods, I spent quite a bit of money on the chain-store camera/video shop tripods thinking they would be OK. When I eventually bought a Bogen (Manfrotto) tripod, it was a leap to a whole other plane. At least check out a good quality tripod to see the difference.
So here I am spending more and more money for you, what with new lights, light stands, and tripod!

LoL, hey, sometimes you have to spend money when it comes to chasing your dreams right? Right now my dream would be actually supplement my living with this wonderful interest that I enjoy so much. I'd love to make it a full time career but right now I'd be happy if I could just make enough to pay for my film lol.

glbeas · Mar 9, 2006

AeisLugh said:
are they more or less expensive then buying hotlights made specifically for photography?

Don't know, never bought photo hotlights. I do know that the worklights can be used outdoors, indoors, banged around, and tossed in a corner and not be much worse for wear.

Check out these as examples:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200309791&R=200309791

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200309785&R=200309785

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

glbeas said:
Don't know, never bought photo hotlights. I do know that the worklights can be used outdoors, indoors, banged around, and tossed in a corner and not be much worse for wear.

Check out these as examples:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200309791&R=200309791

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200309785&R=200309785

That's not bad at all. the only hotlights I'm seeing available from any camera stores I know of in my area are looking at 150 bucks, so 40 bucks would be a good way to start with lighting

glbeas · Mar 9, 2006

Just remember the reflectors on these things probably aren't a very even pattern so you may have to add a little diffusion to even things out occasionally. Bouncing off the reflector card would do the job very simply.

Mark H · Mar 9, 2006

glbeas said:
Don't know, never bought photo hotlights. I do know that the worklights can be used outdoors, indoors, banged around, and tossed in a corner and not be much worse for wear.

Check out these as examples:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200309791&R=200309791

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200309785&R=200309785

Either way, you won't have to worry about your models freezing!

AeisLugh · Mar 9, 2006

Mark H said:
Either way, you won't have to worry about your models freezing!

LoL, no kidding, those will kick out some heat.

Kino · Mar 9, 2006

glbeas said:
Don't know, never bought photo hotlights. I do know that the worklights can be used outdoors, indoors, banged around, and tossed in a corner and not be much worse for wear.

Check out these as examples:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200309791&R=200309791

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200309785&R=200309785

The nice thing about these lights are that they are quartz halogen and quite inexpensive. When I started trying to use serious hot lights in the 1970's, a set of Lowel Lights would set you back a cool $2K USD and did little more than these units. Not only were the fixtures expensive, the replacement bulbs were upwards of $40 USD and very short lived.

Now, with the proliferation of all manner of quartz halogen lamps on desks and in use in general illumination, the price of replacment lamps has really plummeted, making it cheap to buy replacement bulbs and even fixtures.

The biggest drawbacks to QH lights are the heat and the current drain. It is much easier to set a house on fire with a small QH light that draws 1200 watts than a 300 watt incandescent bulb; you had better familiarize yourself with identifying fuse and breaker boxes and judging wiring capacity in older buildings or you could find yourself in trouble.

As for budget saving tips: A pop rivet gun, tin cans, small cabinet hinges, tin snips, a drill, and flat black paint can make barn doors. Shirt collar "stiffening" fabric (at any fabric store) is heat resistant and can be use in place of "toughspun" diffusion you buy from vendors like Tiffen and Lee at a fraction of the cost. Build a wooden frame and clip it to the frame with pony clips or even wooden clothes pins; use your noggin, put it a good distance from the light itself and check it occasionally, because it is fire RESISTANT not fire proof. Use PVC to make large, stand-up light panels of diffusion. Do the same with flat black cloth, because subtracting light is just as important as adding it sometimes. Make "cookies" (kookaloris) out of tree branches, bits of grillework and whatever you can find to cast shadows on people to break up uniform light.

I'll post more budget-friendly tips if I get a few moments...

Studio on a Shoestring

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