Straight from Developer to Fix. Did I ruin the Fixer?

Omid_K · Sep 14, 2022

While developing yesterday I think I accidentally omitted the Stop Bath step. I was developing with HC110(B) and while I typically use a water stop bath, I think I went straight into fixing with TF4. I think it’s safe to assume that there won’t be any issue with the film I developed since the fix effectively stopped the development.

My question is whether I may have ruined the TF4 by putting it into contact with the residual developer in the tank rather than a more diluted amount that would typically be in the tank after a water stop. Or am I just over thinking this and the TF4 would be fine? In case it matters, I buy the smaller container of TF4 concentrate (1L) and dilute it to a gallon per the instructions.

Thanks in advance.

beemermark · Sep 14, 2022

No. You may have shorten the life of the fixer by some unmeasurable amount but it's still good.

Rick A · Sep 15, 2022

beemermark said:
No. You may have shorten the life of the fixer by some unmeasurable amount but it's still good.

+1

Donald Qualls · Sep 15, 2022

I'd agree.

Assuming you aren't using an alkaline fixer, the shortening of fixer life may not even be noticeable as long as it was a one-time occurrence. Fixer at film strength is normally good for 16 to 20 rolls (135-36, 120, or 8x10 equivalent in sheet film is "one roll"), and if you track clearing time as well as counting rolls, you might find you get only 19 or 18 rolls. Not generally a big deal. If you make a habit of it, you may find you get some Sabattier appearance in your negatives (fixer is a mild foggant) when the fixer pH rises too high, or non-imagewise staining due to stray silver depositing back after it was dissolved (even dichroic fog if the developer is active enough).

But once shouldn't be a big deal -- after all, monobaths work fine with the fixer and developer intentionally combined.

Doremus Scudder · Sep 15, 2022

Do a clearing-time test on a piece of film to see how active your fixer still is. Hopefully, you've done one already with fresh fixer and have a base line to compare with.

TF-4 is an alkaline fixer and should tolerate the alkaline developer well. Plus, HC-110 B is a rather dilute developer, so not that much developer would have been carried over to the fix.

Best,

Doremus

jnk · Sep 15, 2022

Omid_K said:
While developing yesterday I think I accidentally omitted the Stop Bath step. I was developing with HC110(B) and while I typically use a water stop bath, I think I went straight into fixing with TF4. I think it’s safe to assume that there won’t be any issue with the film I developed since the fix effectively stopped the development.

My question is whether I may have ruined the TF4 by putting it into contact with the residual developer in the tank rather than a more diluted amount that would typically be in the tank after a water stop. Or am I just over thinking this and the TF4 would be fine? In case it matters, I buy the smaller container of TF4 concentrate (1L) and dilute it to a gallon per the instructions.

Thanks in advance.

think of it like you turned the AC and heat on at your house at the same time. neither is ruined.
you might have a high energy bill (eventually need to buy fixer sooner than you normally would if you did this often).
sidenote: rockland colloid sometimes suggests going right into the fixer from the developer.

Sirius Glass · Sep 15, 2022

Omid_K said:
While developing yesterday I think I accidentally omitted the Stop Bath step. I was developing with HC110(B) and while I typically use a water stop bath, I think I went straight into fixing with TF4. I think it’s safe to assume that there won’t be any issue with the film I developed since the fix effectively stopped the development.

My question is whether I may have ruined the TF4 by putting it into contact with the residual developer in the tank rather than a more diluted amount that would typically be in the tank after a water stop. Or am I just over thinking this and the TF4 would be fine? In case it matters, I buy the smaller container of TF4 concentrate (1L) and dilute it to a gallon per the instructions.

Thanks in advance.

Sooner or later one will make mistakes in the darkroom. This one does not have a large downside, especially since TF4 does not require stop bath.

gone · Sep 15, 2022

When in doubt, do a clip test. It's the easiest and fastest way to ck developers and fixer. We're fortunate to have such a simple and reliable test for these chemicals.

Omid_K · Sep 16, 2022

Thank you all. You’re all awesome.

Straight from Developer to Fix. Did I ruin the Fixer?

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency