I often lack foresight when buying chemicals. I keep forgetting to buy indicator stop bath. yea, a personal problem....
Is there an easy way, outside of buying an expensive ph meter, to show me when it's done? Could ph strips do the job? I know Kodak made a test solution, but I have never even seen that one on the shelves in 20 years.
I often lack foresight when buying chemicals. I keep forgetting to buy indicator stop bath. yea, a personal problem....
Is there an easy way, outside of buying an expensive ph meter, to show me when it's done? Could ph strips do the job? I know Kodak made a test solution, but I have never even seen that one on the shelves in 20 years.
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I don't know about film. But with paper, when the slipperness disappears the paper is stopped. I suppose that if it stays slippery, your stop bath is shot.
Sodium bisulphite can be used to make a stop bath. As PE says, Heinz white distilled vingegar is about 5% dilute ascetic acid. Diluted 1:2 with water works great. I buy it in five quart jugs at Costco and use it in the laundry. Fresh stop bath is important to me becaus I use D23.
Great idea PE...cheap, and effective. Of course, can one use water as a stop bath? Indeed, water stop bath is suggested by PF when using TF4 Rapid Fixer.
Water as a stop is fine as long as it is running water. A still water bath rapidly becomes a weak developer. A still water stop can also promote non-uniformity in the photo as development may not stop quickly enough. This becomes evident with high activity developers and/or large prints. Kodak suggests either a stop or a running water rinse. I have used both with TF-4.