Stop Bath Necessary?

[GKR1]

Today I managed to to skip stop bath and go directly into fixer. After realizing my boo-boo I went ahead and pour the stop bath in the container to fix my mistake.

Anyhow the negatives look great, now I'm wondering if stop bath is necessary? After doing some search it appears few folks think skipping stop bath will result in a negative that has less grain and sharper?!!

Also, is my fixer and stop still good or have I jeopardize their chemistry, I just mixed the batch so i would rather not throw out, of course, that is why I'm asking the question.

Lastly, what do you guys use to mark your brown glass bottles, I need to mark them better.

Thanks

 

[Photo Engineer]

Please, please, please read the HUGE thread on this subject. Or should I say threads!!!!

PE

 

[GKR1]

I'll do more search.

Thanks for pointing it out.

 

[mts]

I label my bottles with a strip of masking tape and write the identification and date with a permanent ink marker. The masking tape sticks even while bottles are immersed in a tempering water bath, and later the tape peels off rather easily for reuse of the bottle.

 

[JBrunner]

Here's the last bloodbath:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Welcome to APUG by the way. Try not to stir up anymore trouble, eh?

 

[Kevin Kehler]

Red caps or red trays. Stop bath, like a stop sign or stop light, is always red.

 

[Athiril]

I replied to you on this on flickr

 

[GKR1]

Here's the last bloodbath:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Welcome to APUG by the way. Try not to stir up anymore trouble, eh?

LOL, I know what you mean now. I know better now.

 

[Steve Smith]

The answer is yes, no, always, never and perhaps.


Steve.

 

[Wade D]

OMG not again!!!

 

[fotch]

Stop already! :confused:

 

[holmburgers]

So wait, did you pour the stop bath into the fixer?? Or did you do stop bath after fixing? As long as you fixed to completion, everything should be fine.

But the stop bath is just an acid bath to neutralize the alkaline developer quickly; so if you've already put it in the fixer there's no point in putting in back in stop bath. And if you did pour stop into the fixer, I'd say pitch that stuff.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

I only use developer and fix (TF4 alkaline) and wash. No short stop, no acid fix, no hardener, no wash aid. Negs are fine for thirty years. Photo Flow at 1:200 to finish off.

Ilford archival wash sequence takes less than 5 minutes. One roll in a two roll tank with an empty reel. 8 oz water, invert ten times. Repeat three more times. That takes 32 oz of water.