Stitching medium format film

[bluez]

I have heard that if you want to create panoramas with analog equipment, you can not stitch them together afterward without showing the lines. So i tried with my Mamiya RB67, took two pictures, and used the two scans and stitched them together in a free tool called "Hugin". (Mamiya RB67, 90mm, portra400)

From :

 

[Richard Man]

Whoever said that have not used modern software ;-)

 

[Trail Images]

This stitched image was 3 horizontal takes with a Mamiya RB67 ProSD - 150mm - Velvia 50.

 

[Billy Axeman]

I have stitched scans of MF film with ICE (Microsoft Image Composite Editor) without showing any artifacts, not even when I pixel peep. You can help a stitcher by adding sufficient overlap and moving the camera exactly parallel to the film.

 

[Trail Images]

I have stitched scans of MF film with ICE (Microsoft Image Composite Editor) without showing any artifacts, not even when I pixel peep. You can help a stitcher by adding sufficient overlap and moving the camera exactly parallel to the film.

Very true on both items. Keeping a correct Nodal Point in the field is a good start to having clean image(s) for the stitch process.

 

[OptiKen]

SWEET!

 

[bluez]

Her is a problem i run into, i placed a 35mm film in my 6x7 back and took a few panorma shoots in the format 24x70mm. So when i tried to scan several (24x36) pictures in my Reflecta ProScan 7200 (2400 dpi) and then try to stitch them together using Hugin, I am geting line(s).

Crop (bottom right corner) :

I asked a friend who tried something similar, with several separat images, using a flatbed scanner and different software, who usually got the same problem, but not always. However my first picture on the top of the thread was made from scans on the CD provided with the developed film (72dpi 6Mp) , and seems to always work.

 

[Billy Axeman]

Usually the stitcher has options to enter the camera motion: planar, rotation, and the sequence (vertical, horizontal, zig-zag or serpentine) so that are all settings to minimize problems.

When you are taking frames by hand there are certainly also differences in rotation (horizon), so the most ideal setup is to take the photo's from a tripod with a panorama head. If that is not an option you could pre-process your frames in an editor to level them out before feeding them to the stitcher.

The bottom line is that if you have frames that are nicely lined out relative to each other and with sufficient overlap you will almost certainly have a good stitch.

 

[Billy Axeman]

If you don't get it done with Huging, may I also recommend the earlier mentioned Image Composite Editor (ICE) from Microsoft. It is free and you can download it here:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/res...tography-applications/image-composite-editor/

The user-interface is deceivingly simple, but actually the software behind it is very advanced and I got good results with this program.

 

[bluez]

Thanks Billy, ICE worked. I did the same test again, and i can not see any stitches.

 

[Billy Axeman]

Good! And now to tweak your process to prevent perforations showing up
I know, it's only an experiment.